Oh my gosh . . . so much text !
sorry
was trying to keep it short. FAIL.
Jpm2,
. . . secure one hand closing is very important to me.
. . . if it's the best lock type for minimal to no repositioning of the knife during a one handed close, it's linerlocks and Benchmade axis locks. They are by far the most secure one hand closers, with linerlocks being the best.
Oh so that is part of why people are recommending the Emersons.
Chriss,
think lockback probably is easier, you only press (gross motor), if it’s Spyderco, flick it down, let the kick hits your knuckles, and change grip, further close it. More or less like your last sequence pinching the compression lock with thumb.
On auto & saltwater: Spyderco has one, Autonomy.
Yes I get along with the Spyderco lockbacks ESPECIALLY THE ENDURA.
depends on the lock back though; I have to mod my Cold Steels to release it easily all day with no thumb cracks. Still super secure but infinitely more user friendly.
Lapedog,
There are plenty of four inch Emersons too. That’s for sure.
The waved Endura has a 3.8 inch blade.
Endura one of my all time favorites especially handle shape.
I must say I’m just not needing the wave, personally, opening with one of the larger Spyder holes and so far really nice detent resistance is effortless every time.
Hackenslash,
I think you might like a button lock. Similar to the concept an auto would bring with ease of manipulation, but fully manual. A few that come to mind by order of increasing price are the Real Steel Griffin, Hogue EX01 and the Freeman 451 BLF.
If you've never used a button lock, they typically take less finger action than most other lock types.
For some time now I have pictured modding at least one of my Paras by attaching a hunk of G10 to the release tab thus filling in the divot in the handle for a more symmetrical grip. That would kind of be like a button . . . still not centrally located like the ones you write about.
I was going to say my version probably wouldn’t help my situation now but come to think of it . . . it would add a textured surface to the release tab.
hmmmmmmmm . . . .
Trout Tamer,
I'm working outdoors more and/or involved in outdoor activities. For that reason, a folding knife with a solid lock and good retention is high on my list, too.
There . . . that’s what I was hoping for . . . not so much to fix my “problem” which is minor but to discuss the thing generally.
The knife that comes to mind for me is the Benchmade Adamas. I don't own one but have handled one several times. You mentioned your 940's lock has worked; though the Adamas has a beefier spring, I don't think its resistance will be excessive.
As long as the button has plenty of traction a bit stronger spring may work.
The downsides to these two knife lines are the Voyagers' in-pocket thickness and both lines' relative stiffness when opening. On the plus side, the Voyager larges cost nearly one fourth of an Adamas
I EDCed a large Voayage last year or early this year, I forget and I love the things. I wear loose pants so thicker knife handle is OK with me or it goes in a pouch. I prefer thicker handles. I hadn’t even noticed the stiffness when opening.
I guess you mean doesn’t fly open with little effort. I just tried it and with a little wrist movement it flies open fine for me. Press the back lock and it drops very fast. Love these things.
Dogrunner,
I stay away from any RILs when finger tips are not an option.
sounds like experience talking there.
Jimislash,
Has what looks to be a latch for the lock. Button locks have always seemed too easy to accidentally release, though I have never tried one.
Good stuff thanks.
Cearal Killer,
There's also button actuated compression locks (maybe customs only).
There you GO ! Even better than my wanting to add a chunk of G10 to the compression lock bar for traction.
Stonproject,
I like your avitar, ha, ha, ha, I bet they don’t call him a silly wabbit twice. Rabbits that shoot back.
I always am
anyone interested in a MT knife, they have a terrible warranty department. Very long turn around times, they've lost knives on more than one occasion that were sent in for warranty work, and if you look at the blade wrong it might void your warranty
So Like when I grind the blade thinner and eliminate that ridge down the middle like I have done with more than a few of my other knives.
They frown on that do they ?
ha, ha, ha, ha . . . I take most warranties as no more than a comical PIA and figure I am on my own to make something useful out of what ever I buy. Fortunately I have a highly tuned BS detector and a whole shop full of fun metal working tools. So . . . I might do alright.
Spending more money on knives . . . and here I thought I was all done whit’ that.
TRfromMT,
I like my 810 Contego, using with gloves on to both open and close. I also like the way you pinch and draw the axis bar because it tends to close the cracks in my fingertips. Lockbars tend to do the opposite - pushing the lock pries the cracks open.
I always wanted an excuse to buy the Contego. The one in M390 was my first look at the Contego but I had a narrow escape by buying the 710 in M390; a little more my style handle wise but there is still some looking back over my shoulder at the Contego.
Interesting perspective on the axis lock vs others.
Bikerector,
I often the spine on my leg to close knives as a way to get around either 2-handed close or having to use more fine motor skills. I really like this on slippies.
My standard MO for my Holdout I
I hate stiff backlocks when the hands are numb. All of my cold steel knives will probably sit home for winter. The stiffer lock on my native 5 also gets to be a hassle with really thick gloves but not near as back as the triad lock. Love the triad lock but the deep press and stiffness doesn have it's downsides.
see my separate post about clamping the release.
OK if i don't reply to everyone it isn't because the mind isn't willing but the flesh is weak.
I better sit on the bench a while. THANKS
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