Wood for scales- checking issues

S

StuNY

Joined
Feb 16, 2014
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So after making some nice handles with stabilized woods I decided to try some of the natural more exotic woods unstabilized.

Purchased the following from Bell Forest in 1 1/2" square by 18" long. Most are sealed in wax- all of the ends and some the whole piece:

Amazon Rosewood
East Indian Rosewood
Cocobolo
Bocote
Zircote
Bubinga
African Blackwood

Decided to get a look at how they finished so cut an approx 1 1/2" cube from each and finished an end and two sides all the way down to 2000 grit. Then a couple coats of Watco, then when dry a final coat of wax and hand buffed.

They looked great- a week ago! Now as I look I can see the finished ends all have slight checks- some worse than others but enough to be noticeable on the end of a handle and I would imagine only going to get worse and possibly travel through the sides?

Is this unavoidable with these woods or is there something I can do in the finishing to prevent it?

Appreciate any help, I really love the look of these woods but don't dare make an actual handle until I get a better "handle on it" haha!

Stuart
 
Sounds like they were still wet. You need to let them dry before using them.
Yes, this takes time. I almost always ignore wood that I buy for at least a year.
 
Any likelihood of overheating at the cut..?

Some of those woods are not very prone to checking.....Bocote

and the Rosewoods (including blackwood)....
 
I see you're in NY. I assume it's still frosty up there. Heating tends to dry out the air indoors. It may be they just needed to acclimate longer or more slowly. But I agree with Russ, rosewood shouldn't care about it at all.
 
wood sealed in wax I believe is intended for turning on a lathe it has extra moisture to make the turning easier, visit a wood turning site I believe there is a way to speed up the drying process to minimize the checking
 
Thanks guys, lots to check up on. Could be overheating, I was going pretty fast- especially the initial shaping on the disk grinder. Faster than I would if I was making a real handle. Will try another test.

I was hoping I didn't have to wait too long to use these beautiful woods!
It is pretty cold and dry here, but the wood came from Michigan so I wouldn't think too much different? I keep it in my unheated basement.

I was cutting from the ends that were covered in wax, I wonder if I should have let them sit out overnight after making the rough cuts to get acclimated?

Very encouraging your points about the rosewoods, they are sure beautiful so happy to hear they are not too prone to checking.
Stuart
 
If it's sealed in waX ,any moisture in the wood is trapped .Yes it can take a long time to dry and stabilize with your location. Those woods also are types that often are just buffed or buffed and waxed as the finish .Normally they are not stabilized .
 
None of those woods are very prone to checking. I would ask bell if they kiln dried everthing. I assume they didnt and they may now be freezing inside the structure?
 
Like the other guys said, sounds like the wood is not dry.
It is a good idea to seal the end grain on all woods until you are ready to use it and apply a finish.
 
StuNY said:
I wonder if I should have let them sit out overnight after making the rough cuts to get acclimated?
Click to expand...

The wax is put on green wood to slow the drying process. If wood dries to fast it will crack. If the wood cracked when you removed the wax your wood is not dry. Letting them acclimate for a week wouldnt even start the drying process. The thinner the wood the faster it will dry. If it was me I would recoat the end grain with wax then saw the 1 1/2" thick blocks into thinner scales ( like 3/8" ) thick then put them away for another year. If you want to keep it thick coat it with wax again and check it in a few years. Sorry
 
ok I'll ask the newbie question... what is checking?
does that maean the wood split at the ends?
 
I have a moisture meter and about half the stuff I get from Bell needs more time drying. If I remember right, I think 17% was the highest reading I got.
I go back and re check the moisture content every 6 months.
It's good wood, just let it sit for at least a year or two and you'll be good.
Oh yeah, and leave the wax on there while it dries.
 
leifjl said:
I have a moisture meter and about half the stuff I get from Bell needs more time drying. If I remember right, I think 17% was the highest reading I got.
I go back and re check the moisture content every 6 months.
It's good wood, just let it sit for at least a year or two and you'll be good.
Oh yeah, and leave the wax on there while it dries.
Click to expand...

From what % do you use your wood?
 
About 8% seems to be where most of the wood I have stabilizes at.
I think it's a function of local humidity, temp. and wood type, so that could be completely different for you.
 
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