Wood Handle Finishing Questions

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blacksmithdog

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Oct 24, 2012
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Good Morning:

With a number of methods of finishing wood with oil, the directions tell you to lightly rub between coats, or after the final coat with fine (0000) steel wool. The problem with steel wool is that it leaves fibers, and if the oil isn't totally dry/hardened, the fibers can stick in the finish. Is there anything like a scotch brite pad that's as fine as 0000 steel wool?

I have been using Tru-Oil on both gun stocks and wooden knife scales. I decided to try Homer Formby's Tung Oil. On my current knife, I have 5 coats on it right now, there really isn't much build-up like you get with Tru-Oil. Anybody else tried Formby's Tung Oil? How many applications did you put on? Did you get much build-up?

I have some curly and birds eye maple I'm going to use on some future knives. I was planning on using Aquafortis to bring out the highlights in the wood. I assume it's all right to do this once the scales are attached to the blade?

Thanks for your help.
 
You can get different grades of scotch brite (or ither brands with similar products) pads. The grey ones are what I use instead of 0000 steel wool. I like using those pads because steel wool usually has oil in it.

I've used formby's tung oil on woodwork. I've never tried building up a thick finish because, like you said, it just doesn't build up as thick. If you want to fill voids then stick with tru oil or use formby's with some wet sanding to create a slurry.

I haven't used aquafortis so I can't help you there.
 
Woodworkers have the same problem, and use the alternative synthetic steel wool. It is called "Steel Wool2". Most woodworking catalogs and stores sell it.
 
As Stacy says, 3-M makes a synthetic steel wool, "Steel Wool2", which comes in 0000.

I haven't used it, but I trust 3-M on this one.

My experience as a boatbuilder is with Bronze Wool, which comes in standard grades, including 0000, and solves the same problems, namely, sheds less, doesn't rust or cause visible spots.

Both Bronze Wool and Steel Wool2 are available via your old friend, Amazon.com.

John
 
I just got some 0000 Scotch Brite pads at the Depot. Haven't used them yet, but they are very fine.
 
Aqua fortis is a very strong acid/etch solution. Unless you have a good neutralisation process, I would keep it away from the metal parts.

PS: Get yourself some Micromesh instead, end this wooly thinking.
 
Last edited:
Got some Steel Wool2 and extra fine Scotch Brite pads on the way. Thanks for the suggestions.

With regard to the Aqua Fortis, Considering the way scales are generally fit, shaped and finished on the knife, it would be hard to keep the Aqua Fortis away from the metal. For curly maple, what kind of finishes do you all use to bring out the grain?
 
What ever is used, use a backing material so the finish, that was just applied, doesn't get removed or pot holed. A good looking finish is one which is as smooth as a sheet of glass.
 
blacksmithdog said:
Good Morning:

With a number of methods of finishing wood with oil, the directions tell you to lightly rub between coats, or after the final coat with fine (0000) steel wool. The problem with steel wool is that it leaves fibers, and if the oil isn't totally dry/hardened, the fibers can stick in the finish. Is there anything like a scotch brite pad that's as fine as 0000 steel wool?

I have been using Tru-Oil on both gun stocks and wooden knife scales. I decided to try Homer Formby's Tung Oil. On my current knife, I have 5 coats on it right now, there really isn't much build-up like you get with Tru-Oil. Anybody else tried Formby's Tung Oil? How many applications did you put on? Did you get much build-up?

I have some curly and birds eye maple I'm going to use on some future knives. I was planning on using Aquafortis to bring out the highlights in the wood. I assume it's all right to do this once the scales are attached to the blade?

Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

I've used a number of tung-oil based products to finish knife scales. I keep coming back to Tru-Oil (which is also a polymerized Tung Oil product). The trick to prevent the "build up" you experience is to keep the individual coats very very very thin. Here's how I do it:

- Apply a coat to the scales. I use my finger, but any other applicator would work.

- Set the knife down and let it dry for five minutes. The finish will be just slightly tacky.

- Using a soft old rag, rub the scales vigorously. Don't be gentle - rub it until you can feel the slightly tacky excess oil come off. This leaves a thin coat with more in the pores.

- Let the scales sit for a few hours to harden up.

- Buff the scales with the 0000 synthetic wool. Be fairly aggressive - the 0000 pad won't take off much finish, but will smooth it out.

- Repeat. My last Karelian Birch scales required about 10 coats to get a good finish.

Cheers!
TedP
 
I understand that the idea behind the steel wool is to allow the added coats to adhere to each other.
But I like the idea of wet sanding between coats better.
This allows the pores to get filled and a smooth surface.
My experience is this works well on non oily woods and most stabilized woods.

Nick W posted a video a while back where he used this method on a stabilized Koa handle.
[video=youtube_share;7TmZ0m9x1kM]http://youtu.be/7TmZ0m9x1kM[/video]
[video=youtube_share;Nc4y1bFj3co]http://youtu.be/Nc4y1bFj3co[/video]
 
tbow said:
Where do you find Tru oil?
Click to expand...

One thing I will say about Tru-Oil, don't buy the large (8 oz) container. I've always bought the 3 oz one, and I've never made it all the way to the bottom of the container before it went bad/got hard/or chunky.
 
tung oil polimerizes with exposure to air/oxygen. To lessen the speed you need to reduce the volume of air in the bottle after each use. I had to buy a pint of tung oil several years ago to refinish a couple of gun stocks (it was the smallest bottle available locally). I have been able to maintain the freshness of it by dropping a clean marble or two into the bottle after each use to displace as much air as possible. Just used some the other day and it is still good after at least three years.
 
Iwannashoot said:
tung oil polimerizes with exposure to air/oxygen. To lessen the speed you need to reduce the volume of air in the bottle after each use. I had to buy a pint of tung oil several years ago to refinish a couple of gun stocks (it was the smallest bottle available locally). I have been able to maintain the freshness of it by dropping a clean marble or two into the bottle after each use to displace as much air as possible. Just used some the other day and it is still good after at least three years.
Click to expand...

Great idea with the marbles; simple and effective.
 
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