Wood Handle vs Steel vs Fiberglass. Serious question

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BushOgre

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May 18, 2011
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I know how to use an axe but am by no means a master of the axe. I rate myself a little higher than average. Felled a few trees in my day and have used all 3 handles. Besides from weight and breakage, if missing the target, what are the pros and cons.

I am looking for a quality axe. Great for family camping all the way to one man backpacking in backpacking. I don't throw tomahawks. I just need something that can help build shelters, process wood and of course fell a tree if need be.

I look forward to your responses. Thanks in advance.
 
Welcome to the forum (from a relative newcomer).

I'm too much of a greenhorn to give good advice about this myself, but there's already a bunch of good information (and differing opinions) on this forum regarding your question. I suggest doing separate forum searches for "fiskars", "estwing", and "versatile".

-Steve
 
steel = most durable, but will transmit the most shock back into your hands. Blue Estwing cushion grip is a good thing, so are leather gloves.
Wood = cheapest, lightest, best looking. good shock absorption, needs care, most likely to break at some point.
Fiberglass = good shock absorption, most expensive, very durable, will eventually shatter, even if you don't miss, pain in the butt to rehandle, somewhat temperature sensitive in my experience. (more brittle when cold, slightly whippy when really hot out)

for sheer bombproof durability, it's hard to beat an estwing.
my favorite axe is a 28" 1.75 pound (3/4 size) Collins Hudson Bay pattern axe -- light enough to use 1 handed, long enough handle to use 2 handed, and the best chopper/cutter I've ever used short of a dedicated 5# felling axe.
 
1066vik said:
steel = most durable, but will transmit the most shock back into your hands. Blue Estwing cushion grip is a good thing, so are leather gloves.
Wood = cheapest, lightest, best looking. good shock absorption, needs care, most likely to break at some point.
Fiberglass = good shock absorption, most expensive, very durable, will eventually shatter, even if you don't miss, pain in the butt to rehandle, somewhat temperature sensitive in my experience. (more brittle when cold, slightly whippy when really hot out)

for sheer bombproof durability, it's hard to beat an estwing.
my favorite axe is a 28" 1.75 pound (3/4 size) Collins Hudson Bay pattern axe -- light enough to use 1 handed, long enough handle to use 2 handed, and the best chopper/cutter I've ever used short of a dedicated 5# felling axe.
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I know Snow and Nealley have a Hudson Bay axe but I am not familiar with Collins. Are they one in the same by chance?
 
Steve Tall said:
Welcome to the forum (from a relative newcomer).

I'm too much of a greenhorn to give good advice about this myself, but there's already a bunch of good information (and differing opinions) on this forum regarding your question. I suggest doing separate forum searches for "fiskars", "estwing", and "versatile".

-Steve
Click to expand...


Thanks Steve. I have read so many forum posts tonight, my brain is starting to burn. ha ha I have seen a lot of good things about Estwing but the Fiskars I have encountered seem to be temperamental.
 
BushOgre said:
I know Snow and Nealley have a Hudson Bay axe but I am not familiar with Collins. Are they one in the same by chance?
Click to expand...

My Collins looks just like the S&N and TruTemper you can buy from Bailey's.
IMHO, Snow and Neally is way overspriced these days. Their axe heads are coming from Mexico just like Council & TruTemper.
Collins used to be made in the states, and I'm not sure if they're even still in business.
Google Hudson Bay Axe and compare prices.

If you want something shorter, I just picked up a Condor Greenland pattern hatchet (19" handle) that's similar and under $50, but I can't give a performance review because it keeps raining so I haven't had a chance to put it through any paces yet.
S&N, Husky, Wetterlings, & Gransfors Bruks will all cost significantly more.
 
aw you left out aluminum and carbon fiber as handle materials...

Wood is best imho but for durability I like 6061 or 7075, drilled or slotted to reduce mass, tuned for vibration isolation and wrapped in a seamless skin of Kevlar or carbon fiber (or both!)

I break sledge handles routinely, wood and fiberglass, often they break inside the head
 
For me it is wood for the following reasons:
1. Any of them can break and wood is the most repairable
2. wood absorbs shock well
3. wood handles temp extremes well with less discomfort to the user's hands
4. wood allows you to choke up on the handle
5. wood will grip the eye as well as the rest if the handle is properly secured so that it does not move--this means properly hand-fitted handle, all voids in the eye filled with gorilla glue (which expands) or epoxy so the handle cannot shift at all, center wood-wedged so cross wedges can be added if needed, center wood wedge epoxied or glued to the wood handle so the handle and the wedge become one laminated component of strength, end grain sealed to prevent moisture from escaping and the wood shrinking, wrap the upper handle with Hockey stick tape so if it can absorb impacts from splitting wood or the occasional miss,

I have splitting axe that has been used many years with the original handle--using and changing the hockey tape is essential for a splitting axe as it takes all the abuse and helps absorb the shock

6. oil or waxed wood is the easiest on the hands for use--you can also scarify the handle for grip
7. if you use a crosscut saw to underbuck a log, the wood handle of an axe can be kurfed for the saw slot and has the spring tension needed for the undercut
 
I always fancy a full tang axe/hawk.
In fact 2 of the incoming orders are FT.

I dig the idea of hammer poll hawk for the sake of classic but the way i see myself using an axe is none but to fell trees or breaking doors during fire emergency.
If i must pick one with wood handle i will go for Cegga but he has yet to reply me.

Seen a lot of good reviews on Estwing. Might want to look into it.
 
I picked up an Estwing in the hardware store and it felt good. Interested in opinions on this topic too.
 
In addition to the list I gave another disadvantage to many of the steel handled axes is that the eye is not wide enough to be a good splitter and the bit is not narrow enough to be a good cutter--in my opinion they are inferior to a good traditional wood-handled axe on both accounts. This holds true for the Fiskar type axes as well.
If you go with a traditional axe head with a fiberglass handle you get most of the wood handle benefits with less detractors.

I do like a fiberglass handle with a handle protector for a splitting maul since they get a lot of abuse.
 
I like an old school Plumb or Collins for this kind of work (camp, as seems to be the most popular). These can be had at garage sales for under $5, and then continue to serve another lifetime of worth.
 
Cpl Punishment said:
Council is made in the US, Collins is made in Mexico.
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thanks for the correction on current manufacture. (and no, I'm not being sarcastic - I hate giving out wrong info)
when I got mine, it had a "made in USA" sticker on it.
 
thunderstick said:
that it does not move--this means properly hand-fitted handle, all voids in the eye filled with gorilla glue (which expands)
Click to expand...

I agree with everything you say except the quote. Gorilla glue is misunderstood. While being a great glue when clamped, the expanding foam holds NO structural strength. All you are doing is filling the head with bubbles.

I have a modification to my Estwing that has helped for years. With a ton of patience I sharpened the top of the metal handle into a semi sharp edge (that has since rounded nicely). This way an overstrike will still split and not transfer as much stopping vibrations. An added benefit is the axe head can be as sharp as you want and still have the splitting wedge action of the handle, and yes, I have split with just the handle to prove that it would work and that my tool was fine- the problem was the tool using my tool.
 
Each type has its advantage and disadvantage. I have to agree with Thunderstick and give my personal nod to wood. I have lots of experience in the cold and wood definitely rules there. You could easily get frost bit hands from steel and fiberglass becomes brittle in real cold.
 
"I agree with everything you say except the quote. Gorilla glue is misunderstood. While being a great glue when clamped, the expanding foam holds NO structural strength. All you are doing is filling the head with bubbles."

It is true that gorilla glue does not have structural strength in the voids like epoxy. I mentioned gorilla glue or epoxy as an option. I have had good luck with gorilla glue in the application as it makes a good bond for wood to wood or wood to steel. The expansion characteristics in voids when confined between surfaces, in my opinion would still help to prevent handle movement more than no filler at all. Epoxy gel is harder to get into all the voids and the regular epoxy after filling voids squeezes out everywhere when driving the center wedge in--though structurally this is superior. I mention both as I feel that either will help significantly to prevent any movement or slippage.
 
I am debating between an Estwing and a Council Hampton Bay. I am very pro USA made equipment so I need to find.out where Estwings are made. I have held the Estwing but have read tons of good reviews and info on the Council. Looks like I found the right forum. You guys seem to love your tools as much as I do. I really appreciate all the great feedback.
 
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1066vik said:
thanks for the correction on current manufacture. (and no, I'm not being sarcastic - I hate giving out wrong info)
when I got mine, it had a "made in USA" sticker on it.
Click to expand...

Collins used to be one of the better names in US axe manufacture (just like Snow & Neally used to be). An older, Madie-In-USA Collins is a fine axe.
 
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