wood handles

[Henderson]

Matt
Have you used dymondwood maple. It buffs out real nice with no oil application needed. It's hard to cut on a good band saw but, makes a nice handle if you're going to use wood.Hope things work out.

Henderson

 

[DC KNIVES]

Henderson,I noticed that your new here and would like to welcome you.Also I don't know if you intended to do it, but to answer hit post reply,not new thread.By the way,I think you will find few makers here that use dymondwood.It is looked down upon as being cheap, as in Frost Cutlery or Home Shopping Network stuff.Dave

 

[L6steel]

"By the way,I think you will find few makers here that use dymondwood.It is looked down upon as being cheap, as in Frost Cutlery or Home Shopping Network stuff.Dave "

Thats sad too Dave. Dymondwood/pakkawood is tough as nails and can take anything. Plus you can polish it up real nice. I don't really know why folks don't like it. One of my favorite handles is emerald green pakkawood.It's real wood, it's just been laminated and sealed/stabilized in liquid plastic.

 

[B . Buxton]

I know some makers and collectors look down on dymondwood, but I have sold several dymondwood handled knives, I will have them in a case with several exotic wood handled knives and the dymondwood will get the most comments.Its tough,(a little brittle) and darn near water resistant, if you scratch it just sand it out and rebuff, and it comes in some pretty colors. It is a shame that so many talk it down.
I have a gun stock made of dymondwood, I've received more comments on it then I can remember and its been in all weather conditions without any problems. Really for an every day carry knife that will be in all kinds of conditions, it is a good choice. Just my opinion.

Bill ????

 

[Mundele]

Hey!! Well, it seems that this post was in reply to an earlier thread that I started, but it ended up as a new thread and I just now noticed it. The first thread was concerning filling the grain of a Walnut knife handle I was making. It has actually turned out really nice. I can still see some open grain pores in the light but it doesnt look bad to me. I have put several coats of linseed oil on it so far. I am gonna show the folks when I go home for christmas, and then maybe put another coat or two.

I was using a scandinavian style blade that has a stick tang (is that the right terminology?) Most dymondwood, and other wood explicitly sold for scale material is in small pieces. I need blocks of wood for handles. (actually, since I have no drillpress, I probably need 2 or 3 to get the hole drilled out right. I've messed up a couple of blocks so far.... That's another reason I'm hesitant to spend money on wood.

--Matt

 

[Kumdo]

I think Dymondwood is almost as good of a material as Micarta. It's very strong and water-resisitant. Buffs up nicely too. I think most people see Dyamondwood as cheap, because of the ugly (IMO) three-color and sharply contrasting color versions used on crappy knives. I've used the one color and two-color (with subtle colors) stuff and it looks very cool to me. Takes on a nices polish and is hard as nails. Here is a very bad picture I just snapped of the Wine Dymondwood I put on a sword. It's hard to tell, but the grain/finish/colors are pretty nice. Not amazing, but not bad either. I much prefer "real" wood like Buckeye and Maple burls....