Wood humidity levels

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Aug 13, 2002
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I bought an Hygrometer thingy that was on special. It ranges from 6% to 30% or something. What I am I looking for for handles? Does it matter and is 6% low enough. This was not an expensive unit.

Pad
 
Two things -
It is moisture content, not humidity. Humidity is the % of water that air can hold at any given temperature. Moisture content is the actual % of water in the wood. Many people confuse the two, and think you can't get wood to 6% moisture content in a climate where it is always 60-70% humidity. They are two different things.

Second, as with most electronic measurement tools, the readings are more accurate in the center of the range. If it reads from 6-30%, then from 10-20% should be accurate. It falls off greatly as it approaches the bottom end. A good wood moisture meter is not cheap, but can read down to 3%. The cheaper meters will tell you when you have gone below 10% pretty well. From there it is a bit of getting used to the meter and learning what it is really telling you.

FWIW, to be stabilized, wood has to be below 10% and preferably below 7%. A drying cabinet is a good way to finish drying wood handle blocks and scales (once they are to 10%) and antler. You can make one from a metal storage cabinet with a 100 watt light bulb in the bottom as a heat source, or use a warming plate for a heat source (like you use on the buffet table to keep a casserole warm). You don't need much heat, just a steady supply of warmed air. a small fan in the cabinet is a plus (scrap computer fan). The circulating slightly warm air will slowly dry the wood/antler to a perfect handle material. It then can be sent for stabilizing or used as is.

To air dry the wood when it is fresh cut, paint the ends with a good exterior house paint. Paint about 3" up the sides from the ends. Set the wood on its side in a well ventilated place ( not too hot - never an attic- a garage, basement, storage shed,etc. is good) and let it dry slowly for at least 6 months.If you are drying a stack of wood, put slats of wood between the pieces to allow air flow. Write the weight and date on the piece in the beginning. I use white house paint on the ends,and write on it with a marker on both ends. I also put a plastic tag on some pieces. Check the weight after 6 months,or use a moisture meter, it should be lighter. Make a note, and set it aside for another 2-3 months.If it is getting close to where you want it, you can leave it as is, or cut the painted ends off. Then let it set for another 3-6 months. The wood may be ready, or for some species, it may take several more years for it to get down to 7%. Even with the paint/wax, the ends will probably check somewhat. That is why you allow some waste on the ends to cut off. I usually figure I will loose the last 3-4" of any piece (the painted area on both ends). My procedure is to dry to about 10% ,cut into large pieces, dry until near 7%, cut into stabilizing size pieces,let it sit another 3-6 months, then ship to WSSI.
Stacy
 
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I have a question here, do any one tried Silica Gel or Aerogel to dry. My mom was making some dry flower arrangements and she used SilicaGel filled box and covered the flowers with silica and closed the box tightly, after a couple of days later flower is dry as a paper but the shape and color unchanged. The SilicaGel can be heated in a toaster oven for 2 hours and it loose all the moisture it sucked up from the flowers, ready to use it again. Maybe it can be applied to fresh wood scales, I'll test this technique, now I found a couple of firms that make silicagel, a couple of pound of that material would suffice I guess...
 
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