Wood oil What`s best

T

Tinbasher

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Jan 24, 2007
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Hi,I was given quite a few nice pieces of hard wood to use on my blades ,looking on the net I found quite a lot of wood workers prefer Toung oil.
What do you guys use ????
Richard
 
I like tung oil. I prefer pure tung oil, but tung oil finishes containing varnish would offer more protection.
 
Let’s see if we can find the right forum …
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I use 100% pure tung oil(not tung oil finish) on my workers and a quasi-french polish with shellac on my show pieces. For naturally oily woods I use teak oil.

Tell us the purpose of the finish, are you looking for a gloss or matte or in between finish?
 
Tinbasher said:
Hi,I was given quite a few nice pieces of hard wood to use on my blades ,looking on the net I found quite a lot of wood workers prefer Toung oil.
What do you guys use ????
Richard
Click to expand...

I'm also looking for something to apply to quality wood knife handles, and posted a question similar to yours.

If you're interested in seeing the responses in that thread; it's here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513003

Jess
 
I use boiled lineseed oil, but I'm told that, with severe hunidity and temperature variations, it can "sweat" out of the wood, and create stains and discolorations, while tung oil won't.
I never experienced anything like this, and gun stocks are finished with boiled lineseed oil. But choose whatever means that give the results you like most.
 
try tru oil by birchwood and casey. i've seen some nice oil finishes done like that and some nice stocks on guns done like that. apply thin ammount and rub in till almost dry (use our finger) do that about 20 times... letting it dry every few thin coats. you can hit it with some 0000 steel wool in between drying times

good luck
 
I use an old gun makers recipe. Mix equal parts of boiled linseed oil, mineral spirits, and spar varnish. This penetrates the wood well but still forms a hard finish. I have tried this finish on canoe paddles just to see how much it could take, and it holds up better than any hing else I have used. It dose take a few days to dry between coats though.
 
Ditto Bikermike...works like a charm. If you don't want to get that fancy, just apply the boiler linseed oil several times w/ very fine grit sandpaper between each application. Give it a couple days between each application. try to apply when it's dry out to improve penetration and so you don't "sandwich" any moisture in the wood (which could result in the sweat Alarion's talking about).
 
I use Watco's Danish Oil almost exclusively. I don't want a hard finish. I don't want to have to sand the whole finish off just to repair a ding.
 
Fiddleback said:
I use Watco's Danish Oil almost exclusively. I don't want a hard finish. I don't want to have to sand the whole finish off just to repair a ding.
Click to expand...

Hey Andy how do you apply the stuff ? I googled and found it seems like the stuff
I am looking for on a couple im working on. Thanks in advance Glenn.
 
I vise up the knife at a downward angle and put a shop rag underneath it. Then I slather it with the oil. I wait ~15 minutes (it'll start to look goopey) then slather it up again, repeat, and repeat. After the fourth slathering I allow it to sit for ~1/2 hour then buff with a rag. It'll resist the buffing because the material has begun to dry. Thats good. Then I wait 24 hours and give it another coat (just 1 slathering this time).
 
I have used "boiled" linseed oil on kitchen knives with good results. I put the handle in a plastic bag and cover the handle with the oil, tie the top and wait. As long as I can stand it. Works best to wait a week or so.
BTW boiled just means that it has a drier added.
Just what I do,
Lynn
 
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