Wood oppinions

Joined
Jan 3, 2010
Messages
196
First: please forgive if this is out of place, but it is pertinent to knifemaking materials.

I love to work with walnut. I am only just learning to select wood for figure and I have mostly been guessing at orientation. I saved a nice round about 18" diameter and 24" in length from a walnut tree i took out for a friend a couple years ago. It sat, covered out doors for almost two years in a barn until I came back to town, split it and brought it into my shop. Over the last year I have used some of it in handle stacks for hidden tang knives, but I am now cutting some of it into scales. This was my first time going from tree to board, so i want to make the most of it until my latest wood seasons.

I have to do this by splitting and then employing handsaws for the moment, which is rewarding, if also tedious.

Before I get any more longwinded; Here are a couple scales I just cut:



They are tangentially cut, as i thought this would be the best way to preserve the birdseyes in the figure. They where cut from a block into scales with a coping saw (not my preferred option, i assure you), dressed with 120 grip to level (read: not square) and i wiped on some true-oil to highlight the figure.

My questions are:

To preserve this level of contrast without unduly darkening the wood, what might be a good treatment/finish? I've considered tru-oil and CA. I can't get too fancy at the moment

Is there a way to bring out more chatoyescent effect in walnut? Is this just a matter of fine surface finish and optically clear finishing agent, or is walnut just sometimes poor in this department.

Basically; What might I do to make the best of this wood and it's figure?

I'm googling too; but it's clear that a lot of you here really know how to work your hardwoods.
 
That walnut looks great.

I would first look at stabilizing what you have, a mason jar and a vacuum pump works great to stabilize wood. it's cheap and very effective.

(the first thing I do when getting any wood/bone/horn is to get it stabilized immediately. just to keep the product in good shape until I get around to actually using it.)

once the knife is assembled I finish with either mineral oil or linseed oil..

palmer...
 
stabilizing my own wood is on the intermediate agenda.

thank you kindly for your advice.

I've got some more from a tree we took down yesterday put aside to season as well. some of it will have to be stabilized as the tree was infested with a mushroom infiltration and some of the figured bits are near the voids and probably have punky parts.

would you say it's even worth trying to use those? i know the strength would be compromized in those areas. i know some people do.
 
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