Wood or Horn?

gurkha berserka

gurkha berserka

Joined
Aug 16, 2014
Messages
1,602
Hello everyone, I have a few questions concerning handle material for HI kukri's. I would much appreciate any answers you can offer me.

1. Which is "stronger" and which will "last longer"?

I've heard of the wood grips shrinking due to the different humidity levels in Nepal.

2. Does horn also shrink like the wood?

3. Can you see any "patterns" in the horn like elephant ivory?

4. What type of care needs to be taken and what type of products should I use for cleaning and protection of the horn?

I ordered a 18in sirupati with the horn grip, just wondering if I made the right choice. The wood grip is very nice looking but I thought the horn might be more durable. I have camel bone scales on my Northwoods Hawthorne Jack folder and they seem pretty durable.

I know you guys and gals have all the information I need. I appreciate being able to pick everyone's brains. Thanks again for everything you are all super :thumbup:
 
yes horn does have a grain, but the solid black pieces are considered the "best" when fashioning stuff from them-- when you get a grain it will be white or gray streaks that can end up being really really cool-- after a few years it gets translucent from the mineral oil andyour hand, and it gets a full body grain you can make out as the horn dulls a bit. hooflex and mineral oil are good for the horn- boiled linseed or pure tung oil mixed with spirits for the wood ( boiled linseed oil can also seal a blade for long term storage safely)-- hooflex is the best stuff though for horn and bone-- its a mix of mineral oil, beeswax and some other good stuff.

wood is the same, the more you use it or oil it, the better it looks-- I prefer horn on all my HI blades because I buy them primarily as collector's items , not work horses ( as the only good collection is one that can be useful amirite?)-- but I have never been disappointed in the wood or finish they use on the wood at HI-- the most recent seax and trisul had wonderfully dark wood, almost black red.

anything lasts as long as you dont ride it hard and hang it up wet :D take care of the stuff and it will last generations, as long as a person looks after it.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for he info brotha... I have a solution of mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil already mixed up. I use it on my military rifle stocks...Looks like I will be using a lot more of it, I can see myself ordering a few more HI's very soon.
 
Berserka,, it's a matter of opinion really... get one of each and see what you like best in hand. While I was into horn at first, my Bowie came with a wood handle and for something like that I like it better. Now if I were to order up a sword or something fancy to hang on the wall I would like a horn handle.
Horn does lack the grain that wood does so you will feel it when using the blade.. horn does slip a little,, I think wood grips better. Visually horns are beautiful,, especially some of the legendary deer antler handles from the past, check out the grain-age on my micro bowie: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1208040-Give-it-up-for-the-IBBB
Good luck man! great brains to pick through here.. congrats on your siru!
 
I've always been a devout wood guy cause I just know more about and work more with wood. But HI has converted me somewhat too. The horn is good stuff, it will crack just like wood if not taken care of but it looks great, it's really hard, checkers well.

I'm still a wood guy but find horn appealing as well.
 
Depending on where your travels take you, I would recommend the wood for drastic changes in climate as it will be the most consistent. While they are both incredibly high quality, the horn seems to go through more rapid reactions regarding shrinkage and whatnot. With shrinkage, especially on a chiruwa (full tang) handle it can cause an uncomfortable grip for extended use.

If your staying in one place Id just go with whatever feels better in hand considering the difference in texture and slippage that dmcintyrlee is referring to.

Either way you decide to go you will be blown away with the craftsmanship. Horn and wood both carry an equal dose of the HI addiction :P
 
Gehazi said:
yes horn does have a grain, but the solid black pieces are considered the "best" when fashioning stuff from them-- when you get a grain it will be white or gray streaks that can end up being really really cool-- after a few years it gets translucent from the mineral oil andyour hand, and it gets a full body grain you can make out as the horn dulls a bit. hooflex and mineral oil are good for the horn- boiled linseed or pure tung oil mixed with spirits for the wood ( boiled linseed oil can also seal a blade for long term storage safely)-- hooflex is the best stuff though for horn and bone-- its a mix of mineral oil, beeswax and some other good stuff.

wood is the same, the more you use it or oil it, the better it looks-- I prefer horn on all my HI blades because I buy them primarily as collector's items , not work horses ( as the only good collection is one that can be useful amirite?)-- but I have never been disappointed in the wood or finish they use on the wood at HI-- the most recent seax and trisul had wonderfully dark wood, almost black red.

anything lasts as long as you dont ride it hard and hang it up wet :D take care of the stuff and it will last generations, as long as a person looks after it.
Click to expand...


Genazi, I was pleased to read your advice on caring khukuri and/or knives. Yung oil and linseed oil are maybe the best one can use on wood. I use medical grade mineral oil on horn and wood both, also I use it on by bone and stag handles, let it stay for 10-15 minutes and wipe. Very healthy for the handle. I use a very light oil called Tuf-Glide on the metal parts. Some blade material, like d2, soak some in. Then again, after a few minutes, I wipe it almost all off. Mu Khukuris are too big, but I keep the rest of my knives in a humidity controlled safe, at about 30-32 % humidity. I also collect for investment and I don't want to risk a handle crack or shrink from changes in humidity. I prefer horn on my khukuris but my safe won't hold them, so I oil them regularly. Good to have you contribute what you do to protect your investments.
 
thanks man, everything I know I learned here and from my brother :D; I wish I had more of a safe space, more vault like area, as it is i kinda enjoy having to look after them-- makes me familiar with them and the style of each maker--I just love natural materials for this reason too, each thing is so unique, you can find worlds in it if you are up late and just had a good shot of rum. lol me and boiled linseed oil have shared many hours with pieces of wood I will never use in anything, just to see what was there. and hooflex is the BLO of horn and bone
 
Gehazi said:
thanks man, everything I know I learned here and from my brother :D; I wish I had more of a safe space, more vault like area, as it is i kinda enjoy having to look after them-- makes me familiar with them and the style of each maker--I just love natural materials for this reason too, each thing is so unique, you can find worlds in it if you are up late and just had a good shot of rum. lol me and boiled linseed oil have shared many hours with pieces of wood I will never use in anything, just to see what was there. and hooflex is the BLO of horn and bone
Click to expand...

Nice to meet someone else that appreciates the natural products in knives/khukuris rather than the man made. I am not against the man made handles if you are using them in conditions that those products hold up better. I have a few knives that I use, sure, but most of mine are stored, touched, admired and cared for. Like you, I love to spend time just admiring them, and taking care of them. I don't know about the khukuis, but I collect what I think are good investments. It is good comparing notes.
 
Horn most certainly has grain to it...
20140731_115349_zpsd61919b4.jpg


If you are looking for most durable though I am guessing you want to use it for heavy field use. In that case I would not go with either wood or horn, buy whichever one you like more and if it does not work as well as you want it to for field use replace the grips with Micarta or G10. If however you want an easier method than replacing the grips you could cover a horn handle over in athletic tape to give it a nice grip which can then be replaced when it gets worn or removed to return you to a nice horn handle.
 

Attachments

  • 20140731_115349_zpsd61919b4.jpg
    20140731_115349_zpsd61919b4.jpg
    31.8 KB · Views: 6
Your horn grip is spectacular! Just gorgeous, I hope the grip I receive is even remotely as beautiful. I agree that wood and horn aren't the best for "surivial use". I have G10 on my Bark River Bravo 1 in A2 steel (blue/black G10. Most of my rifles were wood however and I prefer bone or antler/horn on my knives, bit my bushcraft/survival knife is definitely my Bravo 1. Its light and tough as nails. I love the warmth of wood. Most of my horn or stag material is just scales and not full grips. The WWII should be here in a few days and it will be my first true horn grip.

I wonder if I could get a custom sheath to carry both the kukri and Bravo 1 in tandem? I guess I could make my own out of kydex.
 
Contact Pugs75 for custom leather sheaths, they're awesome.

Roninsgrips for Kydex sheaths, awesome too.
 
Horn is actually hair, not "grain". You can often find voids in horn caused when the animal was working some other animal over. Often in these voids, individual hairs will be found that have become unattached to the rest. This is an issue when restoring antique powder horns or crafting a new one. The "cracks" in the hair must be removed in it's entirety or the crack or void will only continue to grow. Even though horn is pretty much waterproof for short periods of time, it's important for the horn to have some coating, such as wax or hoof dressing, particularly if used often in a damp environment or the object is being placed in storage. Moths LOVE to eat holes in horn when in storage. When they do, the item's monetary value drops considerably and epoxy or body putty is the normal repair. The coating helps deter the moth's "sweet tooth". A word of caution: Items do not have to be put in a chest for storage for damage to occur. When an item is hung on a wall for display, moths can attack the hidden side of the horn that is against the wall. This damage can go for months or years before it is found and can be treated.
 
wow bookie-- that is simply great advice as many of us had no idea, I know I did not ( i kinda knew the hair thing, but no idea bout the cracks or moth eating !) for me this helps as almost all my HI stuff is in horn. I guess ren wax is just a good idea for storing anything?
 
Wood, horn, antler, bone, all have their own appeal. I prefer wood, bone, and antler, truly, I don't even know why, I just know I like them. Horn has an appeal for me too, but just not as much as the others.
 
+1 for horn handles. From my estimation the horn handles are slightly more rare than the wood, which appeals to my mystical side. I haven't noticed a practical advantage to either.
 
Looks like I will have to pick up so hoof dressing. I live in a rural area with a ton of horse farms... I'm sure I can locate it locally. Thanks for the advice Bookie, you have taught me something new today.
 
Mineral oil works pretty well for horn-if the finish is slick sometimes it takes a loooooong time to soak in, but it works and doesn't soften the hilt-I worry about hooflex doing that a little.
If the hilt is built right, with the bolster supporting the hilt material they'll hold up.
 
hmmm I will retreat to more mineral oil instead of hooflex then, I do not want weak scales !
 
yes yes... a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits that I already have mixed up might be the ticket. I wont have to spend any more cash on hooflex lol more money for Auntie and the Kami's hehe
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top