Wood stabilization stuff (long)

Joined
Jul 27, 1999
Messages
228
Ok, I finally got my vacuum/pressure system up and functioning, but not exactly working up to my expectations.
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First some info, then the questions.

For my first run, I used sanding sealer cut in half with mineral spirits, pulling about 28in vac for 24 hours, drawing the mix into the chamber and immediatly pressurizing to 50psi for 24 hours, drain and dry for 24 hours at ambient. I put in some 2x2x5 blocks of plain walnut, a 1.75x2x5 block of white oak, , some 2x.5x5 scales of black walnut, mesquite, pink ivory, turkish briar burl, and some persian walnut burl as well as a couple of pieces of sambar stag.

Observations: About a pint of mix seemed to be absorbed, allowing for the usual loss. The mix definately didn't fully penetrate the blocks, but seemed to do better on the slabs. Some showed more significant weight gain than others (makes sense) just judging by feel. (gonna weigh them next time). The most significant penetration came from the end grain of the blocks, about 1 to 1.5in, side penetration was less than .5. Even the pieces that looked to have been penetrated didn't seem to increase in hardness as much as I had hoped. None of the materials showed much if any filling of grain or voids. The pieces buffed up better than raw wood, but didn't show the smooth glassy surface I was hoping for.

Questions;
1) Do those of you who do this at home get about the same results?
2) If I increase pressure and soak time to 60 psi for 2 days, can I reasonably expect penetration of a 2in block of walnut? (I pressure tested the chamber to 125 psi, so no prob there)
3) If i changed to a polyurethane varnish/thinner mix, will I get better void/grain filling and hardening?
4) Any reason I can't cut the blocks into 4 slab's and run them again?

Thanks for all the help, past and future. I would never have started this project without these people.

James

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i have a question about stabalizing too. does anyone know of a place that can stabalize one 5' board by 10" of bird's eye maple? and dye it too?
 
There is a place in Cedar Falls, IA that seems to be one of the premier wood stabilizing sources. Funny thing is when I was living there for college I never knew it existed! Anyway, you should be able to find the URL pretty easily if you search here or on Yahoo under wood stabilizing. If you can't locate the URL, then email me and I will help you out.

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found it, waterloo wood. i talked to them before, they said they couldn't handle anything as big as the piece i mentioned. they said i'd have to cut up the board to send it to them. i have about 5' of black walnut that i need to get stabalized, it's a couple of boards, ranging from 5"- 10" wide. 2" thick. i need to take a couple of days and put down some lines on there and resaw it into scale widths.
i can't stand how it fills the shop with black walnut dust for days.
 
Hey T.J., have you ever considered trying waterborne urethane? I warmed it and used it on an oak turning I did and the wood virtually sucked it up. This was a laminated piece and it filled the cracks really well. Under pressure and vacuum it might just do the trick. I also used it on a knife handle of scorched curly maple and it looked great.

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Jake Evans,War Chief of the Terrible Ironic HORDE, Wielder of the Mighty Blade SOUL STEALER
 
Equipment design permitting will the wood absorb more sealant if the pressure is increased to 300psi?
 
Harry; figured that, guess I just got a little impatient on the first load (imagine that)
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Do you see any advantage to leaving the chamber at (what's left of) vacuum after the stabilant is introduced, or do you just start pressurizing as soon as the mix is in?

Jake: I was under the impression that you would want to avoid water based stabilants, as the whole ideal is to get the water out and keep it out. BUT, I might give it a try if you can tell me a brand name or better description and where to get it.

James

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Those who are willing to trade freedom for security deserve neither, and in the end, seldom retain them!
 
T.J... I just called the guy who gave me a jar of the stuff and He said it came from Wal-Mart, but he didn't remember the brand name. Sorry I couldn't find out for you. But once the stuff dries its harder than poly and it can be buffed to a gloss finish with a flannel buff and a little white compound.

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Jake Evans,War Chief of the Terrible Ironic HORDE, Wielder of the Mighty Blade SOUL STEALER
 
I had some wood stabalized at K&G finishing, the material looks and smells like casting resin. I tried a crude method and got pretty good results with vac alone, left in for about 2 weeks and re qealed every day or so. I spoke to a company in the area that specializes in resins etc. they recommended thinning and using a couple of drops of catalyst der qt. It takes forever to dry but it penetrated good. Try drilling a hole through the middle of the block and it might penetrate better.
 
Look at it this way:
Would you put "green" wood on a knife?...why?
Would you put "fresh" ivory on a knife?..why?

Both are full of moisture, and both will continue to shrink in a dry climate, and once dry, swell in a moist one.
The object of stabilization is to remove all forms of moisture and insert a medium which will:
a. displace moisture
b. harden, to insure moisture will not return
Use an alcohol, acetone, laquer based product...it evaps & leaves the resin behind.

I pull a vac 2 times: once on the "dry" material, then once again after the stabilant has been introduced. I leave this for anywhere from 12-72 hours (diffrent materials require either more or less time), then pressurize at 100 psi for the same amount of time, depending.
Play with it, it's just like grinding..ya gotta do it to learn!
Hope this helps,
Harry
 
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