wood stabilizing in Canada

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Sep 9, 2005
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Hi Guys, does anyone know if there is a place for wood stabilizing in Canada?
I have some pieces of Red Ivory and English Yew that I would like to have done and I have looked into shipping to a couple of the reputable places in the US but the back and forth shipping is expensive and I think I might have some issues with the cross border shipping of wood?
I was thinking of trying to do a bit stabilizing myself but looking at past forums, it seems that the general feeling is that the back yard guy will never get the results that the pros do and there is also expense involved of course.

Any comments will be welcome, thanks.

Mike
 
Hi Guys, does anyone know if there is a place for wood stabilizing in Canada?
I have some pieces of Red Ivory and English Yew that I would like to have done and I have looked into shipping to a couple of the reputable places in the US but the back and forth shipping is expensive and I think I might have some issues with the cross border shipping of wood?
I was thinking of trying to do a bit stabilizing myself but looking at past forums, it seems that the general feeling is that the back yard guy will never get the results that the pros do and there is also expense involved of course.

Any comments will be welcome, thanks.

Mike

What I do...I live close to the border. 15 minutes. So I ship my wood from Canada to K&G by canada post. Costs me about 18$. Just label it as kiln dried wood for knife handles.
There are shipping receiving companies on the US side near us that I can have my stuff shipped to and then pick it up in person for 3$ a parcel so I have K&G ship there. It's cheaper to have it shpped to these places and bring it across the border in person. Customs doesn't mind stabilized wood because the process kills any "bugs" that they are worried about. I usually don't even pay any taxes or duty. No chance of brokerage fees either.
If you are just having a few pieces done, consider sending a bit more wood for future knives to make it more cost effective. Shipping doesn't change, just the weight that K&G is charging you on does.


Receiving places here have names like Ship Happens and Pic It Up.
 
Randydb, thank you for the reply and the information.

2 more questions - could you tell me what they charge per pound? I may as well send about 10 lbs of wood, as you say, it will make it more cost effective.
Also, can you or anyone else tell me which woods do not need, or cannot be stabilized? I am told that Cocobolo cannot be done because it is so dense and it has natural oils.
For this same reason it doesn't need it anyway.

Thanks
 
Randydb, thank you for the reply and the information.

2 more questions - could you tell me what they charge per pound? I may as well send about 10 lbs of wood, as you say, it will make it more cost effective.
Also, can you or anyone else tell me which woods do not need, or cannot be stabilized? I am told that Cocobolo cannot be done because it is so dense and it has natural oils.
For this same reason it doesn't need it anyway.

Thanks
Knife and Gun's price is based on the finished weight. I sent them enough wood for about 30 handles and it was 11 pounds when they finished.
1 - 5 lbs $14.00 lb
5 - 10 lbs $12.00 lb
10 + lbs $10.00 lb
When I add that up it is around 6$/handle when I add in the shipping. That isn't bad when you consider what it costs for nice stabilized wood.

K and G is really good at telling you what they can stabilize. They know their stuff. I would call and ask. It seems to me they can stabilized just about anything, but I am likely wrong.

Greenberg has a great list of woods around here that can help you figure out what woods don't need stabilizing. Found it.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...or-knife-handles-(update-2)?highlight=species
 
Randydb, you have been a great help. I agree that the final cost of the job isn't bad when you consider what you get for it.
Thank you for your help and particularly for the very informative Greenberg link.
Take care.

Mike
 
Having things shipped into Canada from the states can be costly and time consuming. If it is by the Fedex/UPS couriers they charge brokerage fees of up to 50% of the value of the goods being shipped. USPS (united states postal service) is more reasonable, but still 15ish%. Plus GST and provincial tax.

When I bring stuff across in person I never pay tax on anything under $125 and only once in a while on items up to $300. So it's worth it to use these shipping receiving places in the border towns.
 
But if you pick it up yourself in the USA, and go to cross the boarder you are supposed to report it. They may ask you to pay.
Frank
 
Feel free to ask me any questions. It's good to know that piece is still kicking around. I've done a lot of reading, experimenting and talking to some of the old pros.
 
I've used Canada post/usps to go both ways across the border and have never had an issue. Just remember if you're shipping any exotic hardwoods to check and make sure they aren't on the CITES list. It'd be a shame to get your pretty wood seized because you weren't aware it was a protected species...
 
But if you pick it up yourself in the USA, and go to cross the boarder you are supposed to report it. They may ask you to pay.
Frank

Of course. I actually walk across because it is often quicker than driving. i always tell them what I have. No sneaking. I don't know why but they seldom charge me tax or anything for that matter. I'm not suggesting not telling them. I'm just saying they usually just send me on my way. I probably cross the border 20 times a year bringing in items I have had shipped to the receiving companies. Last year I paid tax once on a shipment of knife building supplies worth $336US. They even knocked the value of the goods down to $200cndn so I paid $24 tax. They sent me on my way paying nothing the other 19 times on goods valued from $30 up to $260.

BUT when I have goods shipped across the border they charge me brokerage fees and tax on all items that are over about $35. Brokerage fees are a rip off. Often up to 50% of the value of the items.
 
Well guys, thank you again for the input. I live in Montreal and I do not have any knowledge of shipping/receiving companies, looks like I might have to look into that.
Thanks Randydb, Metalhead0483, Frank Niro and Greenberg Woods for taking the time to advise me. That being said, I seriously wish there was a local person that could provide this service, it would be easier. The brokerage fees etc are just criminal.

Greenberg Woods, from what I interpret in "the piece", Red Ivory doesn't need to be stabilized? I do not see any mention of English Yew, can you advise about that wood please?

Thanks
 
Well guys, thank you again for the input. I live in Montreal and I do not have any knowledge of shipping/receiving companies, looks like I might have to look into that.
Thanks Randydb, Metalhead0483, Frank Niro and Greenberg Woods for taking the time to advise me. That being said, I seriously wish there was a local person that could provide this service, it would be easier. The brokerage fees etc are just criminal.

Greenberg Woods, from what I interpret in "the piece", Red Ivory doesn't need to be stabilized? I do not see any mention of English Yew, can you advise about that wood please?

Thanks

By "red Ivory" Do you mean a more red colored pink ivory? Berchemia zeyheri? Because if so it does not need it, and when it is done it loses a lot of the colorful luster. and becomes a lot more pale.

Yew is one that has mixed reviews. Most people i have spoken to say it is not necessary and that it is a bit hit or miss as different trees can have vastly difference oil contents. In general, soft woods "I.E Conifers" like Redwood, Thuya and Yew are very hit or miss because of oil contents. Personally I do not stabilize my yew and have never had an issue with it, but I know people who do and it wont hurt the wood.
 
By "red Ivory" Do you mean a more red colored pink ivory? Berchemia zeyheri? Because if so it does not need it, and when it is done it loses a lot of the colorful luster. and becomes a lot more pale.

Yew is one that has mixed reviews. Most people i have spoken to say it is not necessary and that it is a bit hit or miss as different trees can have vastly difference oil contents. In general, soft woods "I.E Conifers" like Redwood, Thuya and Yew are very hit or miss because of oil contents. Personally I do not stabilize my yew and have never had an issue with it, but I know people who do and it wont hurt the wood.
We stabilized pink ivory and pacific yew burl with excellent results. The pink ivory did not fade and the curl was more pronounced.

The problem with pink ivory was its tendency to crack and how quickly it burned while being sanded.

Chuck
 
Greenberg Woods, I did indeed mean Pink Ivory - my bad. Thanks for the additional info.
Chuck, thank you too for your info.
Interesting to see the very different opinions. I guess it can be put down to 2 different processes?

I truly appreciate the advice and comments of all of you gents, I am just starting to inform myself about wood and it seems it is a complete deep science on its own like just about everything in this craft.

Thanks again.
 
Wood is also a natural product. There are of course trends "Cocobolo doesnt stabilze well" but many times it depends on the piece.
 
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