wood that doesn't require stabalizing

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Dec 5, 2006
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Does anyone happen to have a link to the thread about what woods do not need to be stabalized? A local hardware has recently started carryina a HUGE variety of exotic woods and I bought a piece of African blackwood. I just want to see what my options are in that regard. Thanks in advance.
 
I've had good luck with ebony and osage orange-soon to try some hornbeam a friend grabbed for me
 
I believe that this is one of the most dense woods that is common in knife making not sure about the others. Most woods can be stabilized. I think that Ironwood is so dense that stabilization doesnt work on this as well, or doesnt give the same benefit as it would a more porus wood. All professional knife makers can correct me if this information is incorrect.
 
Love the look of African B. Wood. But it has a terrible rep. for cracking down the road.

Mike

Wow! I have not witnessed this yet!!! Most of the African Black Wood has been very stable for my applications. I know that Black Madagascar Ebony is prone to chipping and cracking.
 
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Wow! I have not witnessed this yet!!! Most of the African Black Wood has been very stable for my applications. I know that Black Madagassar Ebony is prone to chipping and cracking.

Curious if other folks have experienced ABW cracking?? Not looking for a debate only information.:D

Sorry for the double post, guess I need to finish my morning coffee!
 
I use some ABW and have had no problems. I think someone has the reputation of ebony confused with blackwood.
 
I've also used cocuswood, pernambucco, other rosewoods (esp. Bois de Rose), snakewood, verawood, teak, amboyna and a few others with good results. It all depends on intended use and care. I make to keep my handles oiled and I don't subject them to too much abuse (no dishwashers!).

I like to experiment by re-handling folders and then abusing them for a while. I they survive the test, I'll use the material elsewhere.

Phillip
 
the two most dense philippine woods i know are the dark kamagong and the light-colored molave. it's hard to drive a 2-inch nail through either one with a hammer.
 

Hi, Smitty! To try to answer your question about using super glue or wood hardener for stabilization, I'll differ to the Non-hack members of the group.

Howsomever, my take on these is this. Regular super glue just doesn't have the penetration under room air/normal conditions for any thing more than a hard gloss finish. I have not tried using a sufficient quantity to emerse and/or put under vacuum.

There is a variety known as "thin CA" used in model building for pentration in balsa wood, but it cost prohibitive at over $6.00 per ounce for me to experiment with.

I do recall a tutorial that used wood hardener, a double boiler, and a larger mason jar. I'm sorry that I can't recall the author; maybe some one here can provide the link.

The trick was to place the wood into the mason jar, and fill with enough WH to cover. Place the unsealed (lid not screwed down tight) container into the double boiler. Pour HOT water into the pan (the jar top must not be below the water line) and continue doing so until the temp inside the jar is the same as out.

You should start to see some bubbles comming out of the ends of the wood. Once desired temp is achieved, seal the jar and remove from heat. The air space at the top of the jar will start to condenese and create a vacuum within.

You'll really start to see bubbles at this point, but they soon stop as the inside pressure stabilizes. Hide the jar from yourself for about a week before opening. Remove the wood from the jar an set aside to dry.

The hardener is supposed to have greater pentration with this method. I've tried this with thinned laquer (approx. 25% sol) on some wood that I harvested from my property (deadfalls/prunings). So far, so good.

Good luck and fill us in with what you come up with.
 
Awesome. Thanks Jim. Where is Brunswick? I'm not familiar with GA, but I do have to go to Rome (GA) in a couple weeks. I think it's outside of Atlanta.
 
A few days ago, I took a piece of fir trim and experimented with a stabilizing method I've been thinking about for months.

I put the piece of fir in a seal a meal bag, then poured a copious amount of wood hardener in the bag. I vacuum sealed the bag, which also removes the air, so the hardener won't cure, and let it sit for two days at room temperature.

Then, I removed it from the bag and wiped off the excess, and let it dry for a few more days. I then cut it up to find out how deep it went. The hardener penetrated almost all the way through! Another day or two would have stabilized it even more, I presume.

The excess hardener is also reusable. I would assume you would have to let it sit for several more days if the wood is harder than fir.

Has anyone else tried a vacuum method like this?
 
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Awesome. Thanks Jim. Where is Brunswick? I'm not familiar with GA, but I do have to go to Rome (GA) in a couple weeks. I think it's outside of Atlanta.

Hi, again Smitty! Brunswick is in between Savannah and Jacksonville, Fla. in the south east corner of coastal Georgia.

Jim L.
 
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