wood

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TheGoldenWalrus

Joined
Jul 16, 2011
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i know im putting this in the wrong place but i really dont know where it goes :P

anyway for any knife maker or modifiers, where do you get the wood for the handles?

Thanks,
Walrus
 
Burl Source was already mentioned, but you can get all sorts of handle materials (non wood or wood) from knifemaker supply places, of which there are many. knifekits, texasknife, jantz, usaknifemaker, knifemaker.ca, etc. Burl Source has some of the most gorgeous wood I've seen though, and very well stabilized.
 
ok thanks, will check out burl source.
and unfortunantly there are not any sources of wood in my area besides cutting down a tree or waiting for one to fall :P
.... maybe i can just wait till hurricane season >: D

edit: any place i might be able to get some niceish wood for more around $10-15?

edit edit: oh nevermind i found a seller on the bay who sells precut bookmatched about 5" long and 2"wide on average from anywhere from about $7-15 with shipping :)

so i guess this topic is pointless now.....
 
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Keep in mind unstabilized wood can and will shrink/expand and otherwise cause issues on knife handles, depending on climate change etc. Some woods are more or less susceptible depending on density etc, as well. Any natural material like bone/antler/wood etc can change with climate.
 
What mgysgthath said, but especially of ebay wood. I have found a couple of great sources there, but some have sent scales that are still green, and resemble potato chips after they dry. Also want to ditto the wood pile and deadfall. I've got a load of beautiful and very hard cherry and maple from friends, and a bunch of spalted sycamore burl I found while fishing. Free wood, just have to pay for stabilization.
 
well apparently stabilizing isnt too hard, although i have absolutly 0 experience :P.
apparently just a few coats of "minwax wood hardener" does the trick, and can be bought for about 10 bucks
which still comes to less than burlsouce charges for their wood
 
I'm all about the "ditto" today. CF07 is correct. I've tried Nelsonite that pool cue makers seem to love. I tried the Minwax, complete with mason jar and brake bleeder to form a vacuum. I'm not a fan of either, and could have a decent pile of stabilized wood for the time, money I wasted trying to save a buck. I'd rather pay Knife & Gun to do it properly, or buy it already done through BurlSource, or another reputable dealer.
 
hmm well what are some woods that dont need stabilizing as much?
also im not really looking for Burl or anything, just something that looks fairly good and fairly strong. (and doesnt cost more than $15 for about a 1 1/2" (wide) x 3-5" (long)
also i do have some red cedar if it comes down to it, but its defiantly pretty plain.

Edit: i have my eye on some variants of Oak and Maple precut bookmatched on the bay. would they be ok without stabilization?
 
TheGoldenWalrus said:
hmm well what are some woods that dont need stabilizing as much?
also im not really looking for Burl or anything, just something that looks fairly good and fairly strong. (and doesnt cost more than $15 for about a 1 1/2" (wide) x 3-5" (long)
also i do have some red cedar if it comes down to it, but its defiantly pretty plain.

Edit: i have my eye on some variants of Oak and Maple precut bookmatched on the bay. would they be ok without stabilization?
Click to expand...


Dense oily woods like Desert Ironwood, Ebony, Maybe some Rosewoods for example.. They're generally more expensive though. Can't say for Maple and Oak, I've not read about them in that respect.
 
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Walrus - Both Oak and Maple are fine woods for a knife handle. What others were saying about home DIY stabilizing.... take it to heart. The product you can achieve at home is completely different than what Knife and Gun produces or that that you get from Burl Source..... way different. BTW, cedar is often considered a bit soft for a knife handle but, hey - go for it.

Peter
 
apparently i can get some ebony, rosewood, or desert ironwood fairly cheap on the bay. but i dont really like the looks :/
i might stick with the maple or oak and just risk it.
also if i put oil on the handle say... about once a month would that help at all?
 
Walnut. Good looking grain, holds up well, doesn't need to be stabilized, easy to finish, cheap. Rifle stocks and furnitur last 100+ years made from walnut.

Pro stabilizing vs. Soaking in wood hardener is a dead argument, they are NOT the same thing.


-Xander
 
Keep an eye on knife making supplies here on the forums, got so really nice walnut for cheaper then the bay and way better quality too.
 
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