Woodchuckery / Model question

SamuraiDave

SamuraiDave

Joined
Apr 6, 2001
Messages
2,632
Ok here is the deal.
I am in town for the next few days alone while my new apt opens up.
Sooo...

I have bought all the material for making the HI naginata...all the model making stuff that is. (I got the cash from returning the shelves that I was going to build in my room before my room mates decided that they wanted to replace me...but that is another story. :mad: )

Question is:

How do I preserve the 24" x 4" x 1/2" planks so that they dont warp as I gradually make the model?

Do I start now with a light coat of linseed oil? Then imbetween steps and sanding add another coat?

I plan on mess ups, but I want to get this out soon, so to minimize my errors...Experts...let er rip!:cool:
 
Dave, keep 'em flat and dry is the best advice I can give you.
Laying the 1st one on carpet is okay, but don't lay them on a hard surface without some kind of spacer under them. Several pencils laid in between would work to keep air circulation around them.
I keep my Cedar for Flutes up on shelves with no circulation, but they were nicely and completely kiln dried. I have had no trouble with warping.
HTH's.:)
 
The guys didn't cotton to a roomy who sits up nights rubbing the handles and honing the blades of big knives. TWERPS! OTOH, this way you alway get the biggest slice of pizza.
First, what kind of wood? Also, the grade and seasoning will come into play. On pieces that thin (relatively speaking) the work you will be doing will amount to a sort of "stress relief", but slow-acting. If you anticipate having to leave a piece unfinished, recently carved, sanded, etc., and on a shelf until you can get back to it in several days, a coat of linseed can help protect it from either drying or aborbing moisture as the weather changes. Most warpage is a result of removal of grain from an area that has helped support shape. In green wood, the result is immediate and very visible. In seasoned woods, it takes longer. Kiln dried woods tend to have been "de-streseed" and so are worth the extra cost for models. A light coat of linseed at the beginning can help you see grain that may cause trouble later in the carving and shaping (pronounced curves or curls that might be attractive in finished wood - model wood needs a good straight grain). Rotsa ruck :)
 
Speaking more toward the final product... You may wish to apply a good coat of polyurthane or epoxy resin glue to the finished model BEFORE you paint it. This will act as an exoskeleton and provide additional structural strength. Also it will fill in spaces and seal the model (for sure) from moisture & dryness on it's long journey to Nepal.
 
Originally posted by billpaxton
Speaking more toward the final product... You may wish to apply a good coat of polyurthane or epoxy resin glue to the finished model BEFORE you paint it. This will act as an exoskeleton and provide additional structural strength. Also it will fill in spaces and seal the model (for sure) from moisture & dryness on it's long journey to Nepal.
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Bill that's a dayumed good suggestion!!!!!!!!
I'm not going that far with the Bowie model, but I am gonna give it a coat of some super whaite glue I have.
It's not the same as Elmers as it will dry underwater if need be and can also be used as an additive for concrete!!!!!!!!
Some of the finest plain glue I've ever found.
I tried some "Pro-Bond" I think it was once and all that stuff liked to do was bubble!!!!
I was hoping to find a totally waterproof glue for my Flutes, but it didn't seal the seams good enough.
This white glue I have does wonderful on all applications.
I can get the name outta my room if anyone's interested.
It can also be thinned and painted on for reinforcement.

A good coat of glue may prevent another deal like the blunt pointed awl.LOLOLOL.

The Bowie handle has had it's 1st coat of clear and has been pretty much sanded. It won't be too much longer now!!!! :D
 
"I was hoping to find a totally waterproof glue for my Flutes"

Sir please tell me you don't intend to apply this glue/sealant to the inside of the flutes as well? Those ARE some exquisite musical instruments you own ...I would hate to think of the natural woodsy tonal qualities replaced by a lackluster plastic sound :( Hmmmmm, do you think a thin application of, say, warmed/liquified beeswax (exterior) would suffice?
 
I am way past you guys... I have 10 tubes of superglue waiting for this one (I bought alot last time, great for pranks :p ). Then I will primer it with a spray paint primer and paint it.

But that is months away (if not years with the way I am going)... I dont know anything about the balance on these pole weapons, So that is my best guess.

What I am attempting is a double fuller, the first large one sort of like the GS, then the next like the traditional Japanese Bo-Hi. I have my dremal...and boy am I going to learn how to use it.

I want it light yet strong and pretty. All I can do is start a good one, give it the good ole college try, and see what happens. I will also make a tsuba...but one thing at a time.

Mounting it to a pole... well...we have discussed that enough... go search for "naginata".
 
Originally posted by billpaxton
"I was hoping to find a totally waterproof glue for my Flutes"

Sir please tell me you don't intend to apply this glue/sealant to the inside of the flutes as well? Those ARE some exquisite musical instruments you own ...I would hate to think of the natural woodsy tonal qualities replaced by a lackluster plastic sound :( Hmmmmm, do you think a thin application of, say, warmed/liquified beeswax (exterior) would suffice?
Click to expand...

Have no fear Bill. I would never do that!!!!!!:D I do use a good quality oil on the inside. Cedar oil has a way of preserveing and smelling good. The heat in the Sweatlodge magnifies the delightful smell and it permeates the whole Lodge and all of us in there with it.:)

The only reason I needed a waterproof glue was so that the Flute seams wouldn't heat up, soften and then come apart. This glue does what it needs to perfectly!!!!!!:)
 
Dave,

Are you coming back to DFW for the break? If so, I'd be curious to see the finished Naginata... :D
 
Ruel,
Yes I am coming back to DFW, no I will not have this one done by then. I dont have any power tools, everything is packed, so this one is going to be slow going. However, it should pick up speed once I get to my new apt.

I will attempt to have it done before the ROTC program here gets too hellacious next semester, otherwise I might have to put it down for another semester.

Well... I almost have the outline cut out...back to my coping saw.:rolleyes:
 
:cool: Oh man... that sounds like an edged weapon connoisseur's wet dream...

Originally posted by SamuraiDave

...

I have bought all the material for making the HI naginata...all the model making stuff that is. (I got the cash from returning the shelves that I was going to build in my room before my room mates decided that they wanted to replace me...but that is another story. :mad: )

...
Click to expand...
 
redvenom,

LMRRAO !!! :D

And check it out...I still have $38 bucks on the gift card Lowes gave me (they wouldent give me cash for it cause I didnt have the recipt).

Also...I have been at this tonight for 3 hours, I will take a break until tomorrow. I got bored and pulled out some other tools to make the work go faster. The lines on this thing are impressive, I have shocked myself this time, I wish I had a scanner and the ability to post pics.

I have even impressed myself with the speed I have turned this sucker out. Maybe I will be done before the new year...but I wont ship it off till it is perfect, but the thought has crossed my mind this might be a (dare I say it?) "silver bullet".

Ok...now for Q&A

I need to put some massive fullers in this thing, right now it is 24" oal and 1/2" thick. Do I Dremal the hell out of it, Or is there a better way?...:confused:
 
Originally posted by SamuraiDave
redvenom,

LMRRAO !!! :D
Click to expand...

lm"RR"ao? Dave I didn't know you had ndn blood ("RR" = Royal Red.) or did you just get your arse chapped?:p ;)

I got bored and pulled out some other tools to make the work go faster.
Click to expand...
]Run!!!! Don't Walk!!!!!! Over to where I was talking about getting in a hurry on the Bowie thread!!!!!!! Hurry = Screw up!!!!!!! Maybe not at the moment, but if you hurry you will be very lucky to keep things going right!!!!!!!
I was lucky in being able to glue the handle back together, but it could have easily went the other way. Perhaps the Spirits just looked kindly on me and only hit me upside the head with the board again, instead of breaking the board Over My Head as usual!!!!!!!:)

I have even impressed myself with the speed I have turned this sucker out. Maybe I will be done before the new year...but I wont ship it off till it is perfect, but the thought has crossed my mind this might be a (dare I say it?) "silver bullet".
Click to expand...

Not always, but Usually good models take time. Unless one gets lucky hurrying, see above.:p

Ok...now for Q&A

I need to put some massive fullers in this thing, right now it is 24" oal and 1/2" thick. Do I Dremal the hell out of it, Or is there a better way?...:confused:[/QUOTE

Dave if you don't have an ndn crooked knife, an Exacto Radius blade in their big handle, or any other way to whittle the chips out a Dremel may be the best way.
Just remember it doesn't take but a second to say "Don't" and it takes even less time to go too deep with a power tool.
Too tender a bit of advice...... I've always found it best to have my work piece anchored and Both Hands on the power tool when doing potentially critical work.......
Another vote agains the Dremel is the amount of dust it produces.
If you Absolutely Have To Use The Dremel please use a face mask at the very least!!!!!!
No one needs that stuff in their lungs!!!!!!!:)
Click to expand...
 
Heed the advice, Dave. Slow down a little.

The last step can sometimes ruin the entire effort. The closer I get to completion the slower and more cautious I become.
 
When I said "hurry up" I meant that instead of using a pocket knife and whittleing the sucker down, I went out in the rain to my already packed car and got my coping saw and my rasps.

And as for LM"RR"AO... yes its chapped. You have no idea how much S*** I have been through the past couple of days.:mad: Now that my room mates are gone I can relax until my new apt opens up tues...ahhh finally get to rub oil on my handels in peace.:cool:

As for screwing up... I have been thinking this one over for about six months... the last thing I want to do is get in a big hurry and "oops,gotta go start over".

BTW, during lunch today I went out and bought some 3/8" wood incase the 1/2" is too thick. I have also taped 2 sheets of paper together to make a pattern of what I have done already, so if I do mess up I dont have to go all the way back to the drawing board.

Back to sanding and shapeing....:)
 
LMRRAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good one Dawi. I guess you're excused.:DLOLOLOLLMRRAO!!!!!

I was gonna tease you a little bit, but then decided you really wouldn't want to trade places with me in the morning anyway.:)

Your post made me laugh out loud.:D
 
Also,

How sharp should I make the model? I dont want the kamis thinking that I want a dull blade, but If I do sharpen it, using superglue and sand paper, it will be much more fragile.
 
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