Wooden Bolsters?

[redsquid2]

I am assembling a Scandinavian-style knife; hidden-tang. Instead of the traditional metal fitting, I would like to use some scrap mahogany or bocote, to shape a bolster. Problem is, I don't see any knives with wooden bolsters, and I wonder if there is a reason for that, like maybe..."Wooden bolsters suck?"

 

[NickWheeler]

Some guys do them.

Most folks will tell you the whole reason for putting bolsters on a knife came from knives getting slammed down into knife blocks (in the kitchen) and buggering up the front of the wood handle. If you put a metal bolster there, that won't happen.

Of course very few custom knives ever actually go into a knife block... so it doesn't really apply so much unless you're specializing in kitchen cutlery.

I say go for it, and show us how it turns out

 

[zerogee]

If you're nervous about the wood bolsters, use micarta instead. But there are a number of guys that do wood "bolsters" (though may or may not be on Scandi type handles) - often multipart wood handles with several wood types. One approach that saves a lot of aggravation (and allows easy fancy angled and curved cuts and joins) is to simply do all your various wood joining while the handle is in block form - then you can fit it to the blade tang just like any single piece wood handle. Other than that, I wouldn't make the wood "bolster" very thin - say about 1/4" thick minimum.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Many traditional knives have wooden/ivory/bone/antler bolsters - Japanese cutlery for one example, and Scandinavian knives for another. On stick tang knives there is often a metal front plate/guard that does not extend out beyond the wooden collar/bolster. This is due to the need to cover the tang hole filled with epoxy.

Here is a tip for a full tang knife:
Cut your bolster and scale material about 3" wide. Laminate the bolster and the main scale on a piece of vulcanized spacer material. Slice down the middle on the band saw, and you have two exactly matching scales.

I always considered the bolster as a strengthening feature for knives and weapons that got heavy use. It also protected the handle end from wear caused by the sheath/scabbard. I don't think there was even such thing as a knife block when bolsters were invented.

 

[javand]

Yeah, also, not many people that are serious about top end kitchen cutlery use a knife block.

Most pros(chefs, not knifemakers) I know use a padded case or felt knife roll, and/or a magnetic strip at work and home. I'd question the guy that's going to be using a block for his kitchen cutlery, that normally screams: cheap knife set+amateur.

 

[S.Grosvenor]

Just finished one, and I liked it enough to plan a couple more.

The Next one's will be with more contrast, planing ebony up front with a Lighter (maybe maple) in the back. So Go for it!

 

[lonepine]

Just a guess, but I suspect that a wooden bolster/finger guard that would go on a stick tang knife would split pretty easily. That's probably true for full tang bolsters too, especially when you drill two or four holes in them for pinning.

I like the looks of non-metalic bolsters but feel that a sturdy synthetic material would function better than wood. I don't know if impregnated wood splits or not. I suspect laminated wood material would be pretty sturdy.

If looks are the prime concern then heck, use jello it that's what trips your trigger. I'm partial to orange jello with peaches myself.

- Paul Meske

 

[Mike Davis]

Look at the numerous knives made with an all wood handle and no bolsters....they hold up fine, so why would wooden bolsters not? I would strongly suggest stabilized wood for the strength, but there is no reason it will not work.

 

[james terrio]

What Mr. Davis said. On a big ol' chopper or heavy-duty combat knife... maybe not the best idea. But on a hunter/EDC/utility knife etc, if you manage to split a well-attached wooden handle (one-piece or not), something is seriously wrong, and I doubt it's the wood's fault.

 

[Hengelo_77]

And there's wood and wood.
An ironwood bolster will stand up differently then say curly birch

 

[MT Borg]

To put in my 2 cents worth. The front of the handle will get messy from what you cut. If that food material stays there it will/can contaminate the food item you next cut and then eat. If you use wood, make sure it is non-absorbent and smooth so nothing will get left behind in the grain for future contamination... that includes the contact area between the metal and handle material.

 

[redsquid2]

I made an ebony bolster, but I didn't like the look of it, so I made a metal piece, and some spacers to put on there.

Blade is 2 3/4". O.A.L. is 6 1/4".

I don't have a belt sander, so I don't make blades. I just make handles.

What do you think? Would it look better with some kind of pommel or nut on the butt?
Last edited by redsquid2; Today at 01:48 PM.