wooden handle mora questions

[RescueRiley]

1st let me say I'm a big fan (as if you all didn't know) of mora knives just a little curious there seems to be a small bit of space between the handle where the ferrule is and the tang.. It seems like if you use your knife while working with food or game that it might become an area where bacteria might breed.. des anyone seal there's? Also I noticed the red handled moras are slippery when wet any advice on making the more grippy?

 

[Mentor]

I have also found myself pondering this issue occasionally.

Personally, I prefer my scandi stick tangs to have a brass guard soldered on (not a protruding finger guard, mind you - more of a brass upper layer). The solder, properly applied, fills any gaps around the tang and makes it far less likely that bacteria will find a place to gather.

I have taken apart a few old knives that have interiors that look like they belonged in a petri dish.

All the best,

- Mike

 

[sodak]

Yes, I've used both clear silicone caulk and jb weld. A lot of people, me included, will get a new one, stand it on end in the garage, flush out the gap liberally with WD 40, and then in the morning, seal it up.

 

[mp510]

My first fixed blade (actually knife) was a wood handled Errickson (SP?) Mora- the traditional youth model with the guard. It was for small game hunting. Our SOP was to stretch a rubber balloon over the handle to protect it from blood, water, etc... Never had a problem with it.

 

[Dannyboy Leather]

I completely remove the red handles, burn off the red paint, seal the wood. After the stick tang is cleaned up and prepared, I slide the handle back over the tang and fill the void up with Acraglas or epoxy (Acraglas is a much superior void filler). I drive a ferrule down onto the stick tang to lock everything in place (not really necessary with Acraglas). This really solves the void and gap issue and you couldn't rip one of the handles off these Mora's when I'm finished with them.

I use the cheapy plastic sheaths (cut off the belt loop) and use scrap leather (deer, elk, moose) to overlay the what becomes the plastic liner. I insert some stiff veg-tanned leather into the belt loop and sew it all up (takes about an hour).

Doesn't take much time, effort, resources to really improve the appearance and durability of the wood handled Mora. Good job for the rainy day.

 

[RescueRiley]

That looks purdy, THanks.... I'm not real handy with that kind of stuff but I might try to give that a wack...

 

[abo4ster]

Geez, I think I will be embarrassed the next time I carry mine after seeing what Dannyboy does with his. Nice job!

Riley - the Mora handles are tapered front and back in addition to being oval shaped. Can't say that I have noticed a problem with slippage. Also, the shape lends itself to prolonged use.