Wooden knife handles preservation

I suspect you may be over anxious and indeed, overthinking things a bit Alex :) Keeping exotic wood samples in not very suitable places may well induce mould, damp, worse still rodent attack/fouling or insect invasion :eek: But as you say, the knives are kept in proper places, so not really a risk there. Extreme dryness could be a threat,
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You've received much wise advice here so you can relax :)
That's the righteous summary indeed, Will!
I'd say most wood handled knives are made of the right types of durable woods otherwise knife makers would have endless problems. Thus durability not really a question.
I have noticed that hardwoods typically couldn't care less about conditions they are into, except for dryness. I just search for a sort of universal solution.
I agree on the sparing use of mineral oil as a wipe over, but never favoured soaking as some do, it softens things too much and can entrap moisture.
Never wanted the soaking either. Long time ago I heard about people disassemble their Opinels and literally boil handles in a cooking oil... That's overly extreme to my tastes. Not to mention that most traditionals can't be so readily disassembled.
What surprises me is doubts over the use of beeswax. Sometimes use a quality furniture polish which contains this on knife handles, gets a fine lustre on wood handles. The quantity is so low and polished off that I cannot think it could harm wood handles at all.
RenWax is said to be the best wax exactly because it has zero (or close to zero?) acidity, while acids in natural waxes are said to cause wood damaged at some point after application. That information is what got me on the quest for the better preservation solution. Initially I would apply beeswax without a doubt. I love it and always use it for leathercrafts preservation. It is natural, smells good, doesn't cause me any allergy. Seemed like a perfection before I discovered that aforementioned new info on its acidic contents.
On the contrary, I have a Mahogany dining table around 200 years old and that gets polished (not often as it's a right effort ;) ) and it will have been fed with beeswax based polish over the centuries- no signs of dissolving!
That is exactly what need to know. Thank you!
 
Again, thanks to all for your input!

Now my to do list is next:
- wait for the additional information from the contacted institutions on a subject;
- try the RenWax on some wooden blocks and see how it works (how long the solvent evaporates etc.);
- try to apply mineral oil on a beeswax and see if they can be safely combined.

Preliminary strategy plan is:
1) Make sure the wood is dry.
2) Apply beeswax, gently polish the excess with soft cloth OR apply thin layer of neutral mineral oil OR combine both?

Now it calls for consecutive questions:
- How to make sure the wood is dry?
- Is it a safe bet that it is dry right from the factory regardless of the transportation time (given there's a silicagel in each package, if we take GEC for example)?
- If not, how to safely dry it at home?
 
I'm late to the party! On wood, stag, or bone I'll use one of these two. I'm not sure you can get Formby's anymore. It was highly recommended by Tony Bose. I also keep all my knives in a climate-controlled space.
I don't use them for food prep unless absolutely necessary so I don't concern myself with food safety issues. On the rare occasion that they do food duty, I always clean the blade beforehand.
You have a lot of good information to work with!
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On wood, stag, or bone I'll use one of these two. I'm not sure you can get Formby's anymore. It was highly recommended by Tony Bose. I also keep all my knives in a climate-controlled space.
Its absolutely available. Most hardware stores, HomeDepot, even Stop and Shop carries it.
 
Its absolutely available. Most hardware stores, HomeDepot, even Stop and Shop carries it.
I did a quick search at each of those and didn't see it. Last I knew, you had to find it on Ebay or Etsy, and it was pricey. If it's available elsewhere I think that's great.
 
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