Recommendation? Work knife

sharp_edge

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Whichever you decide to buy, buy used here in the Exchange, unless money is not important. Plenty of light user s30v PM2 go for around $100, which is what I would buy.
 

teddy1093

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All are great suggestions.Even razor knife. The grip and rat 2 in d2 are front runners.Cold steel knives are tough but all the dust makes me nervous.And buck the same.(getting dust out)Maybe just overthinking it. Could try a skyline and ratd2 under budget.
 
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deltablade

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Spyderco stretch, I love mine
SPC90PBK2_1.jpg
 
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I got 7 different para3 in exotic steels. I would
not use them for a work knife. Too expensive and too pointy for work use, great for defense and EDC. I also have delica and they are great but they start to get up in price for a work beater.

My new perfect work knife is a steel will cutjack in D2 steel brand new for $39. Good steel and FRN scales that are work abuse friendly and it also has tip up blade back like your old knife.

SMG Inc. is an American company established in 2008 that produces the steel will knives.
 

Hale Storm

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I got 7 different para3 in exotic steels. I would
not use them for a work knife. Too expensive and too pointy for work use, great for defense and EDC. I also have delica and they are great but they start to get up in price for a work beater.

My new perfect work knife is a steel will cutjack in D2 steel brand new for $39. Good steel and FRN scales that are work abuse friendly and it also has tip up blade back like your old knife.

SMG Inc. is an American company established in 2008 that produces the steel will knives.
Steel Will cutjack is made in China.
 

rmill7

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I'm chiming in here to add a nod to the axis lock camp. I carried a BM 950 for two and a half years while working in a copper mine in AZ. In that time it experienced: hot, cold, dry, humid, rain, snow, acid, bases, grease, slurries, drops, prying, and handoffs to laborers. The only maintenance I did was run it under a tap, hit it with compressed air, tighten the pivot, and run it on a sharpmaker every once in a while.

I bought it used but in good condition for $135 (I know, still over your cap). Still one of my favorite knives :thumbsup:
 
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Kershaw commissioned the development of 14c28n, if I recall correctly. They seem to do well with it, from at least one cut test I've read of.
I was thinking grip cause I already own one and love it. Wasn’t really sure about crud inside or getting it out.And the skyline sounds good,I have 0 experience with the steel.And does kershaw do14c28n right. But as others have said people own them for a reason.The delica in s30v and para3 I also already own.The more I think about it maybe open construction would be the way to go
 

GatorFlash1

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If you can spend just a few dollars more than your $100 goal I might suggest buying a Gayle Bradley 2 folder. I think they are a great working folder. I have edc'd a GB version 1 since it was released some years ago. It does everything I need around the house, yard, and shop. It has good steel and a very nice feel on the handle. I clean out the guts with a couple quick bursts of WD-40. Just my two cents.

Here is a video speaking about the style and hard use (cutting up shingles, etc.).

 
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Mingecutter

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For a more rugged knife, the definitive answer in that price range is Cold Steel (American Lawman, Code 4, Recon 1, etc).

+1

These are my usual suggestions to this type of question, along with a Spyderco Manix 2, Endura/Delica, Stretch 2, or Native 5. Also consider a Kershaw Link in 20cv (OD green variant). Good luck with your choice!
 
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Spyderco Manix 2 lightweight or a Kershaw Blur in a premium steel. The standard steel for the blue isn't an upgrade from the rat 1. I really enjoy my Manix 2 but it is heavy that is why I suggested the lightweight version. I find an assisted knife is often handy on a construction site and a Blur is open built and available in premium steel if you look around.
 
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Look at bear ops rancor 2..
S30v steel well under a 100$ .

I don't have one yet... I will soon.
This looks to meet your criteria.

Or as others have said rat 1 in D2 steel.
D2 is a pretty tough steel not soft like aus8.
 

anthonycastorena2014

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Spyderco stretch, I love mine
SPC90PBK2_1.jpg

I thought I was going to be the only one!! Great suggestion. I used a super blue Stretch (previous generation) for prewiring houses and beat the pics out of it. Everything from boarding holes in boards, shaving down drywall for power outlet boxes, cutting down material boxes, you name it that stretch did it. It is the absolute most underrated Spyderco out there IMO. I've also used it to skin deer and boar.

I'll also vote against the axis lock. They will get gritty and shitty pretty quick. it actually doesn't take much tbh. Not that they will not function they just get gritty and require a somewhat painstaking amount of qtipping and rinsing before they are smooth again.

Thirdly I think they Spyderco Gayle Bradley2 is a great option. The guys knives are built to be nothing but used. There's a good interview with him on YouTube on his philosophy in making folders.

Coming from someone who uses my knives pretty hard these would be my top two suggestions. Stretch over GB because of traction.

MHKu0Oo.jpg

Blade swapped the Superbike to have a nice shiny blade in the light grey scales.
 
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If you move it back and forth it will clear the mechanism and lock up fine, I'll give you that. The reason I claimed it wasn't so good was that it's a more complicated mechanism and is more difficult to clean the dust out of. If you don't mind taking the time to give it extra care it'll work fine. Something simple like a liner lock will push dirt off to the side with each opening just like the Axis, but there are fewer places for the dust to go. It's a tradeoff, ease of actuation with the Axis or simplicity of construction with a liner lock. I've seen drywallers and painters come out looking like there was an accident at the flour mill, so you know that dust is going to get into some hard to reach places.
My experience has taught me otherwise.
I've never witnessed an Axis-lock folder fail due to dirt/grime/debris/etc....
But I've seen more than one liner-lock fail.
 
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