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Work sharp sharpener
- Thread starter u812
- Start date
- Joined
- May 30, 2009
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- 2,538
Dont most thumb studs come off?
- Joined
- Aug 26, 2009
- Messages
- 43
For knives with thumb studs, simply lower the handle so the stud is out of the way.
This should allow for the entire cutting edge to be on the belt. Once you clear the thumb stud just raise the handle back up and pull the blade through. See graphic. This is most easily accomplished using the 50° Outdoor Knife Guide. Hope this helps.
This should allow for the entire cutting edge to be on the belt. Once you clear the thumb stud just raise the handle back up and pull the blade through. See graphic. This is most easily accomplished using the 50° Outdoor Knife Guide. Hope this helps.
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- Feb 18, 2008
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The sharpener does work this way- but it ends up sharpening the blade at a different angle. Even at the slow speed with fine belt you can see the change along the edge- if you have a coated blade, the change is more noticeable.
snwbrdr202
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2009
- Messages
- 4,181
Nice! How hard was it to sharpen her, and how long did it take? Did you have any previous sharpening experience? Thanks for posting bro.
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2011
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- 146
Previous sharpening experience, taught by Grandad to use whetstone age 10, wore out an original Lansky in the 90s (hundreds of knives), replaced with Diamond Lansky (hundreds more, still going), Edge-Pro Apex Chosera for a few months now (dozens of knives), Work Sharp system one week.
Took about 15 minutes going slow and careful. The 80, 220, 6000 and 4-8-12 respective-increasing-grit-refinement passes regimen works. I got my Micro-Mesh belt shipment yesterday too so I did a few 12000 passes after it was already poppin, not sure if it made a difference.
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2006
- Messages
- 1,148
Well I received my Work Sharp WSKTS this weekend, man is this thing cool!
Initial thoughts -
Easy to use
Belts are easy to change
It removes material pretty quickly
I had a pretty beat up Santoku knife with small chips all along the edge. I ran it through a bunch of times to grind away the chips then worked mt way up through the belts. Now it is scary sharp. Finding the right amount of pressure to apply will take a little time. A nice smooth draw with a light touch seemed to work the best. Angling the blade just right when you get to the tip will take some practice. If you linger to long or over angle the blade you'll either take off more material than you did on the rest of the bevel or round over the tip. I am assuming that these are pretty standard belt grinder considerations.
Some of you might think I'm insane when you read the next part....
So I have this 3" Hinderer production XM-18 non-flipper. It was very obtuse when I got it. One night while slightly intoxicated I decided to re profile the edge to 40 degrees on an Edgepro, due to the alcohol coursing through my veins it did not turn out so well. Eventually I went back and cleaned it up (sober this time) and got it nice and sharp. Well after the Santoku knife turned out well I decided to go for it. I ran the XM through on the 220 belt until the bevel was nice and even (maybe three times a side?) then ran it through on the 6000 belt until it was cleaned up. Then I took it to a loaded strop (green compound) and man this thing cuts like a scalpel now!
I have been working on refinishing a Skeleton Key I stripped, I'll probably do that edge next so my Tactical steak knife is ready to rock
After that there is the rest of the kitchen knives.....
Initial thoughts -
Easy to use
Belts are easy to change
It removes material pretty quickly
I had a pretty beat up Santoku knife with small chips all along the edge. I ran it through a bunch of times to grind away the chips then worked mt way up through the belts. Now it is scary sharp. Finding the right amount of pressure to apply will take a little time. A nice smooth draw with a light touch seemed to work the best. Angling the blade just right when you get to the tip will take some practice. If you linger to long or over angle the blade you'll either take off more material than you did on the rest of the bevel or round over the tip. I am assuming that these are pretty standard belt grinder considerations.
Some of you might think I'm insane when you read the next part....
So I have this 3" Hinderer production XM-18 non-flipper. It was very obtuse when I got it. One night while slightly intoxicated I decided to re profile the edge to 40 degrees on an Edgepro, due to the alcohol coursing through my veins it did not turn out so well. Eventually I went back and cleaned it up (sober this time) and got it nice and sharp. Well after the Santoku knife turned out well I decided to go for it. I ran the XM through on the 220 belt until the bevel was nice and even (maybe three times a side?) then ran it through on the 6000 belt until it was cleaned up. Then I took it to a loaded strop (green compound) and man this thing cuts like a scalpel now!
I have been working on refinishing a Skeleton Key I stripped, I'll probably do that edge next so my Tactical steak knife is ready to rock
After that there is the rest of the kitchen knives.....
Last edited:
rodriguez7
Gila wilderness knife works
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2009
- Messages
- 1,428
Just got my work sharp, I sharpened all my knives with it, good convex edge. My regulator and war dog are sharp as hell now. Good investment i think. The only thing is I already wore out my belts, ordered another set for 10 bucks. Lasted long enough considering I reprofiled about 10 knives, with hard steel.