Work sharp yeah I tried it!

There is definitely more margin for error on the Work Sharp than a 1x30 belt sander.
If you have the WS mastered, the jump to a 1x30 is a breeze.
 
I'll throw in a pic or two of knives I've sharpened on my WS.

First up is my 2. I Fisked it on the WS freehand, then stropped it with white compound. Very, very sharp.



Then I've got the 16 I took to a very steep convex. Not quite Fisked, but as close as you can get without actually laying the blade on the belt.



Finally, here's my modded Blackhawk Tatang that I Fisked top and bottom.



Note that there is no rounding of the points on any of these knives. One reason I take the guides off and face the WS towards me on the side with the belt moving downward is that it allows for superior control. You don't get the rounding at the point and the heel that can sometimes happen when the guides are used, unless, of course you get sloppy with your grip.

Incidentally, here's how I've got my WS set up and use it. Yep, it's just jammed in under the chop saw to keep it from moving around. It works just fine. What, I got a high tech operation going on here.:D



The blade gets run across the belt like this, only using two hands; one to hold the handle, and the other to control the pressure on the belt.

 
The work sharp is awesome...once you get used to it you can try it free hand and if you screw it up you can put the guides back on and do it again. It gave a wicked edge to my BK2 and my BK9.....it even helped my Ontario RD9 chop a lot better as that thing is a beast but suffers from lack of bite usually but now it chops with the best of them. For the asking price on ebay you won't be sorry...unless you don't buy extra strips.
 
I have a work sharp too. It's a good beginners tool for using sanding machine for sharpening. Makes good working edges. There are two problems with it:

1. The infamous rounding off tip, which can happen using any sanding machine, so it's makes good learning for a beginner
2. Creates an inch or so of a slight indentation in the blade at the heel of the blade. It's where you place the blade down to start sharpening. Dont know how it happens but I've been seeing it a lot on my blades

Nowadays I use a harbor freight with trizact belts to either convex / reprofile / or put a wicked sharp v edge on my knives. I prefer the latter option. But I never would be able to get a razor sharp edge on my knives if it weren't for using the work sharp. Just some thoughts...
 
Translash said:
2. Creates an inch or so of a slight indentation in the blade at the heel of the blade. It's where you place the blade down to start sharpening. Dont know how it happens but I've been seeing it a lot on my blades
Click to expand...

I used to do this a lot too. I have found that if I place my knife in the guide first then hold the trigger switch as I start pulling my knife through I don't get the wave, or at least I have not seen any noticeable wave yet. I would also say that unless you are re-profiling or sharpening a very dull or damaged edge it's probably best to start with the medium belt or even the fine.
 
bigghoss said:
I used to do this a lot too. I have found that if I place my knife in the guide first then hold the trigger switch as I start pulling my knife through I don't get the wave, or at least I have not seen any noticeable wave yet. I would also say that unless you are re-profiling or sharpening a very dull or damaged edge it's probably best to start with the medium belt or even the fine.
Click to expand...

That's another reason I threw out the guide; the slight recurve at the heel. Your way of only turning on the belt once the knife is in the guide will do a lot to prevent this.
 
Slightly Off Topic: Ok, after I totally screwed up the tip (yeah, I rounded the damn thing). I had the blade re-tipped and re-sharpened.

 
The trick to avoid rounding the tip is to stop the belt while the tip is still in contact with it. I agree with previous posts that there is a learning curve. I sharpen everything I can with this, including my lawn mower blade. After a lot of practice, I rarely use the guides except for my kitchen knives. I got the slight wave near the handle the first time running my BK2 through. Too long of a pause while starting to pull the blade through. Evened out after a few more passes. Puts a wicked edge on the blade for sure. Put a shaving sharp edge on my Ontario kukri but I had to do that one freehand. Those recurves can be tricky the first few times...
 
O.K guys I've got one on the way, so am trying to get as much info as I can about using it correctly to avoid some of the problems some people have experienced such as rounded tips etc.

I'm kind of new to sharpening so even though a tool such as this is much easier than free handing, from what I've gathered there is still some know how required to get good results.

While watching a review on youtube the guy mentioned how he had to pull the blade through real quick on the fine belt to avoid "flopping a burr" which is what he said was happening when doing it as per the instruction manual.Can someone explain why that would happen and is it necessary to pull the blade through quickly on the fine belt to avoid it?
 
got my bk2 shavin sharp in mnutes with the work sharp!!
an then the bk2 sheath dulled it right down over the next few days:mad:
 
New work Sharp releasing in the Fall.

ITS THE TITS ! Adjustable bevel angle settings, variable speed, heavy duty motor, oh and did I mention the belts are twice as wide, and they will be releasing a crapload of new belt grits including a leather one for stropping ?
Ken Onion sat in on the designing of the new one, and its AWESOME. Also they will have some very very nice accessories for it like a full on mini bench attachment and a long straight for doing things like axe blades, lawnmower blades and such.

If your thinking about getting one soon, hang on just a little longer, the new ones almost here ! Orrrr get one practice and be a pro when the new one drops ..lol I like mine ALOT, and the folks at Darex are fantastic. Great product and customer service.
 
Going to have to get one of these for myself (still looking for a good price. I know I can beat what my local hardware store has them for.). By the way, can you get other grit belts to fit from other places?
 
i love mine... esp on BIG blades that doing by hand is a fail (scythes, khukris, choppers, axes, machetes)... small blades and kitchen flats get the Apex Edge Pro

and the Ken Onion Edition is going to be a knife maker / sharpeners dream...

i have some pictures up : 4 wheel system with a base/platen : sweet

CA_06011322252170-X2.jpg



CA_06011322252988-X2.jpg
 
i love mine... esp on BIG blades that doing by hand is a fail (scythes, khukris, choppers, axes, machetes)... small blades and kitchen flats get the Apex Edge Pro

and the Ken Onion Edition is going to be a knife maker / sharpeners dream...

i have some pictures up : 4 wheel system with a base/platen : sweet

CA_06011322252170-X2.jpg



CA_06011322252988-X2.jpg
 
Just my luck. I get a work sharp and no sooner break it in and they come out with a new one! say buh buy to my stash, again.
 
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