Work Sharp

ssblood

ssblood

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Well, we don't have a recent thread going and I just bought one..

I have a WEPS with the stones from 100-1600 plus the strops, a SM, a strop/ sand paper kit from KSF and some other toys to compare to. This thing is awesome! In a few minutes I can make anything pop hair with the stock belts. If anyone is thinking of trying one but has their doubts, just buy one!

I'd love to compare it to a paper wheels setup but don't have the room to set one up right now. I'm sure they would be just as good if not better with richardjs instruction.

I'd like if people that own one would share their tips and tricks here or others to ask questions.
 
I saw this, and I thought at first it was gonna be a "anyone try this and is it good?" thread. I'm glad its not lol

I actually have been thinking about getting one, have you tried sharpening anything besides knives? (like machetes, axes, etc....)
 
Haven't tried anything other than knives so far. I did sharpen a guy at works kershaw yesterday that looked like he had batoned bricks. Sharpened some cheap kitchen knives to hair popping. I also used the 6000g to touch up my M390 Para2.
 
With everyone that I have seen saying that they like it, I may have to get one. It seems to me that it would be easier to sharpen a machete with this.

also seems like you could sharpen just about anything. take the guard off and use it like a hand held belt grinder
 
Be wary of the stock P220 belt, it can be easy to get carried away and make the grind uneven, especially at the heel. I'd strongly recommend some aftermarket Micro-Mesh belts 60MX, 150MX, and 240MX to have in between the P220 and 6000. I believe the Worksharp website also offers some P400, P600 and 1800 which should do just as well, though I'd check to see the abrasive type as I would hesitate to shell out $1.75 for a PoS aluminum oxide belt(same as what the P80 is made of, and wears out quickly).
 
I almost bought a WEPS, but I'm so glad I didn't now that I have Work Sharp. I happen to be someone who loves convex edges and finds them much easier to maintain than traditional V-edges, so I guess I'm in the minority, but the Work Sharp is perfect for me. Aside from ruining the tip on the first small knife I tried it on, I have had great success with it so far. It's super quick to restore even damaged edges, but the angle guide is pretty useless. I just freehand it with the sharpie trick if necessary.

The Aluminum Oxide belts do wear out super quickly, I use 600, 1800, than 6000 for touching up and I definitely need a new 600. I've heard the micro-mesh belts last longer, which you can find at third party stores online. I'm going to have to check them out soon.
 
I've noticed the 220 can do some damage. As for the WEPS, it makes some beautiful edges, I love what it can do for my Strider. Sharpening a Para2 on it is impossible though IMO, at least with any consistency.
 
ssblood said:
I've noticed the 220 can do some damage. As for the WEPS, it makes some beautiful edges, I love what it can do for my Strider. Sharpening a Para2 on it is impossible though IMO, at least with any consistency.
Click to expand...

i modified my wicked edge stones to remove the plastics on the stones and it sharpens the para 2 just fine now. set a bevel on my para 2 and use my sharp maker for touchups. I find myself VERY interested in this work sharp thing..... im going to look into it and maybe give it a try always wanted to try belt sharpening and this looks like a good intro.
 
SSblood you should look at clay allison's video of how to sharpen a full flat ground blade on youtube.
 
I went and got one, played around with it a little bit and so far I think I like it.

I sent a couple of china brand Swiss army knives through it to learn, but still have trouble with the point, each one is rounded, which isn't that big of a deal to me, since I used to use a knife without a good point.

Any advice on keeping that point?
 
The points are the trickiest. Here's what I do:

As you go through the belly (if any) towards the point, lift the handle so the blade edge is always parallel to the ground (squared to the belt).

Don't take the point past about the first 40% of the belt width. Otherwise, the belt starts wrapping around the point and rounds it.

Finally, as you pull the knife through with your right hand, your left hand/finger is on the power switch in the intermittent position. About the time the point hits the edge of the belt, release the switch, so you get less than full speed on the point.

There is lots of WorkSharp info. and tips in these two long threads: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/765050-Work-Sharp-Knife-Sharpener and http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/876346-Work-Sharp-(belt-grinder)-Knife-Sharpener

Andrew
 
I will read trough the threads and take the advice, that Katherine thing I haven't been able to master yet. I actually sharpened an axe and hatchet with it today (cheap ones), a machete and a ditch blade. I was impressed with it, the machete needs to be reprofiled, but without doing that it still is a good edge.
 
WEPS
SM
KSF

WTF?
TIA

What I mean to say is not all of us know what these mean
so.........
Please
 
neeman said:
WEPS
SM
KSF

WTF?
TIA

What I mean to say is not all of us know what these mean
so.........
Please
Click to expand...

neeman,

WEPS = Wicked Edge Precision Sharpener (high end system for beveled edges, often compared and contrasted with EdgePro)
SM = Sharpmaker (Spyderco's venerable ceramic rod sharpener)
KTS = Knives Ship Free (popular dealer, based in Oregon)

Andrew
 
AFAustin said:
The points are the trickiest.
Click to expand...

To minimize grinding off the tip:

A light touch is the key - with or without the guide one can see how far the blade is pulled through - slow down when nearing the tip, and stop once the tip is fully on the belt (ie: stop when the blade tip reaches the position shown in diagram below) -
do NOT under any circumstances press or push the blade or exert any pressure into the belt.

GrindTip.jpg


Yes, one should try to keep the line of the edge perpendicular to the belt at all times - this means when reaching the belly and eventually the tip the blade should be lifted at the back so that the "sight picture" (for want of a better term) should look kind of like the drawing above.

A light touch (no exerted pressure) and care toward the tip moving the blade so that it presents the edge perpendicular to the belt - will help remove any danger of grinding off the tip.

Review - Work Sharp (belt grinder) Knife Sharpener

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I have read some of the other threads, and was able to keep the point on a knife last night, it was a really cheap knife, but I know I can do it now. Thanks for the advice
 
Mine just came in the mail about an hour ago.I can't wait to try it out!
 
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