Working Knife Advice

T

twhman

Joined
Dec 7, 2006
Messages
26
I am looking for a couple of knifes to carry. I want to get two. One mid size lockback around 4 inches and one smaller two or 3 blade penknife that can be just stuck in my pocket. I would like good quality knives since they will be well cared for but carried and used when I work around the farm.

I have been looking on e-bay for a few weeks to see what is out there and the prices one can expect to pay. I keep looking at older knives from the 70s and 80s not sure why maybe because I like the wood that is often inset in the scales. I also like some of the bone. I am considering brownings, case, buck and gerber. I don't mind if they are lightly used since they are working knives for me and don't want to invest a ton of money. However, I am not very knowledgeable about knifes (I know more about things that go bang) and would like some feed back from the people here that know more than I do.

1. Are the older Browning and Gerber knives good quality knives - I think they were both made in the USA back then? I think both today are not what they were back then; that is why I was thinking older.

2. The older Case knives seem to bring higher prices but to me don't look to be any higher quality. Same with the Bucks. Is this because they are more collectable or is there an actual difference in the quality of the Case and Bucks vs the Brownings and Gerbers?

I would appreciate any thoughts about differences between the older Brownings, Gerbers, Bucks, and Case knives and which brands would make a better choice in a work knife for use around the farm. Are there any particular things I shold be looking for in these knifes or particular models?

Thanks for the advice.
 
Out of your knives listed for the 4" lockback, GO WITH THE BUCK. The Buck 110 is a favorite around here for a reason: it's a great knife at a great price. You will find few knives that have the quality and usefulness of a Buck. Buy a brand new 110, and it will serve you well for a while. As for the penknife, that is not really my field, somebody else may have a better suggestion. Good luck.
 
You seem to like traditional-type knives.

I would go with a Buck 110 for the large knife.

You can find some great bargains, and even design your own for not too much more money. (Check the website).

Premium steels, great heat-treat, good choice of materials.

For the smaller knife, I would look at Queen.
A number of patterns, a number of scale materials.
Try to get the D2 blades.
 
I would look at a Spyderco Manix , big and tuff , will outperform just about anything at that price point . For an EDC small folder , either a Queen D2 of some type or a Victorinox Alox Soldier .

Chris
 
IMHO I don't see the point of carrying around those two knives. I think a 4 inch knife could do anything a 3 inch knife could, and more. I mean maybe if you wanted to carry a folding knife and a fixed blade I could understand having two knives, but in my personal expereinces, haveing two folding knives wouldn't do me any more good than having one. Of course I don't really have to do any hard work, so I dunno. Just my opinion.

And anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong in assuming this.

Oh also, Spyderco Manix = :thumbup:
 
twhman said:
[...] I like the wood that is often inset in the scales.
Click to expand...
twhman said:
I don't mind if they are lightly used since they are working knives for me and don't want to invest a ton of money.
Click to expand...

Spyderco Manix = great knife, but no wood, and $$$.

I second the Buck 110, and would suggest looking at various Shrade Old Timer knives for 2- or 3- blade slipjoints. Good little knives, prevalent on ebay, and not too spendy at all.

Welcome to the fourms, twhman, and make sure you let us know what you choose! Photos, too. :)
 
twhman said:
I am looking for a couple of knifes to carry. I want to get two. One mid size lockback around 4 inches and one smaller two or 3 blade penknife that can be just stuck in my pocket. I would like good quality knives since they will be well cared for but carried and used when I work around the farm.

I have been looking on e-bay for a few weeks to see what is out there and the prices one can expect to pay. I keep looking at older knives from the 70s and 80s not sure why maybe because I like the wood that is often inset in the scales. I also like some of the bone. I am considering brownings, case, buck and gerber. I don't mind if they are lightly used since they are working knives for me and don't want to invest a ton of money. However, I am not very knowledgeable about knifes (I know more about things that go bang) and would like some feed back from the people here that know more than I do.

1. Are the older Browning and Gerber knives good quality knives - I think they were both made in the USA back then? I think both today are not what they were back then; that is why I was thinking older.

2. The older Case knives seem to bring higher prices but to me don't look to be any higher quality. Same with the Bucks. Is this because they are more collectable or is there an actual difference in the quality of the Case and Bucks vs the Brownings and Gerbers?

I would appreciate any thoughts about differences between the older Brownings, Gerbers, Bucks, and Case knives and which brands would make a better choice in a work knife for use around the farm. Are there any particular things I shold be looking for in these knifes or particular models?

Thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...

IMO the new Gerbers are not worth the money. The older Gerbers (pre-Fiskars buyout) had better steel and better quality, at least in my experience.

I think the Bucks from the early 70's had 440C blades. The current crop has 420HC. You could check the Buck forum to see exactly when they switched steels. And all of them were US made. Some of the new Bucks are made in Asia. (I have nothing against that per se, I'm just stating a fact.) I know from personal experience that the old ones were good working knives. I carried a cadet daily for years and a 110 daily in other years. In both cases, they got used a lot and held up great. I hear good things about the current crop. But, I've not tried them myself.

I've never bought a Case or a Browning knife, so I cannot comment on those.

You might try looking at some of the on-line knife shops to see what is available in new designs. I find that sometimes they are less expensive than the final price on EBAY. When you do that, try looking at Queen slipjoints. D2 steel fit for the pocket at a pretty reasonable price.

Good hunting. Enjoy!
 
shaldag said:
You seem to like traditional-type knives.

I would go with a Buck 110 for the large knife.

You can find some great bargains, and even design your own for not too much more money. (Check the website).

Premium steels, great heat-treat, good choice of materials.

For the smaller knife, I would look at Queen.
A number of patterns, a number of scale materials.
Try to get the D2 blades.
Click to expand...

Durn good advice here. I would suggest the Cabela's version of the Buck 110... it has s30v, and cuts like a razor.
My advice on the Queens... look for the Cattle King stockman. Comes in Winterbottom and jigged black cherry. Both look great and scream "user".

I have both of these, and they would unquestionably do the job.
 
I just want to support what most are saying: buy something in one of the premium steels. Spend that little extra and it will certainly pay off in less time at the sharpener. A minimum of 440C, ATS-34 or VG-10 but better yet, D2, S30V, or 154CM (and a couple more).

For years I carried knives made from great steel but when I needed to do "knife work", I'd go grab one of my AUS-8A knives and sometimes one of 40A. If what I am doing might chip the blade, then OK. But if not, I don't do that anymore. I hear people on this sight call AUS-8A a "good working steel" and I used to say the same thing. Yeah, you'll be "working" at sharpening it all the time.

Buy a knife with good steel and it will serve you well. I don't know why I ever though that my "good knives" were only to look at. I know "cheap" steels have their place and I'll get some flames for this but AUS-8A and below, forget it unless you just can't afford anything more. A blade of S30V or D2 with a good flat or hollow grind will stay sharp 10 times longer than AUS-8A.

Good luck
 
EDC Katana said:
IMHO I don't see the point of carrying around those two knives. I think a 4 inch knife could do anything a 3 inch knife could, and more. I mean maybe if you wanted to carry a folding knife and a fixed blade I could understand having two knives, but in my personal expereinces, haveing two folding knives wouldn't do me any more good than having one. Of course I don't really have to do any hard work, so I dunno. Just my opinion.

And anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong in assuming this.

Oh also, Spyderco Manix = :thumbup:
Click to expand...

HI! I usually carry at least 2 knives. I use one for abusive tasks, like cardboard when you might hit a staple, electrical appliance cords, fiberglass banding, ect...
The other knife is for fine cuting that won't roll an edge over accidentally. With that one I cut plastic wrap on pallets (a good sharp knife with no nicks goes right through this stuff, one nick and it'll snag), paper lables to size, open envelopes, sharpen pencils and fingernails, and other light stuff.
Just thought you'd like to know....

Marc
 
if you go with buck 110 as the big one, you should take the second one with a different kind of blade..
buck003.jpg


personnaly I'll choose a fallkniven U2, as blade is quite different, and also that it's premium steel and not too expensive.
falu2_tn.jpg


but handle is not wood... (but light !)
then it's a question of taste !:)
 
Hey guys thanks for all the information I have read everything - twice to make sure I got it all. I was really surprised that the buck knife was so highly recommended.

The post from Bladeprince which recommended I go to a higher grade steel. I like high carbon blades more than SS - I think case I had some crappy SS knives in the past which has probably given me a unfair bais against SS. However, our perceptions do impact what we do (at least that is what I learned in marketing class years ago). Therefore, I started looking at VG-10. Some research showed that while still high carbon it is closer to SS than most and has good edge holding properties and some rust resistance. So I am now leaning toward a VG-10 knife.

I also noted shaldag, Knarfeng and Mongo suggested Queen for the second the smaller knife. I had heard of them but never really knew anything about them - I guess I thought they were a cheap knife. I did some research only to learn then are mad in the same town in PA that my college roomate was from. I huge buy American guy so supporting the old home state was appealing to me.

Anyway I am thinking about a Queen steel liner lock in cherry since they use the VG-10 for my good carry knife and they make some smaller liner locks that wil fit in pocket fairly easily.

I will also probably get a second knife - thinking about the 110 here. There was such a big vote for this knife I cannot believe it.

Oh, I also noted several recommendations for the victorianox. Not really my cup of tea. However, I was a gun show about a month ago and I was looking at some knives. Another guy was also looking at knives and was very knowledgable - a knife collector type. He recommended the solider as a GREAT knife - said that he had a number of that brand and would be he only knife if he could only have one.

Thanks for the assistance. I think I am better informed now and will be happier with my choice. I will post my selections when I get them.
 
shaldag said:
You seem to like traditional-type knives.

I would go with a Buck 110 for the large knife.

You can find some great bargains, and even design your own for not too much more money. (Check the website).

Premium steels, great heat-treat, good choice of materials.

For the smaller knife, I would look at Queen.
A number of patterns, a number of scale materials.
Try to get the D2 blades.
Click to expand...

Extremely sound advice
 
I think lock knives are an abomination. Get 2 Case sodbusters, (their SS is actualy good, all you got to do is put a 15 deg edge on it). My other 2 Case CV's have a 12deg (which I taught myself to sharpen on), & an 8 deg. Since I bought an ontario 499 at the military price $18.21 I'll use that in place of a lock(er). The 8deg will do a PA black bear in 2 hrs, a NE Canadian moose in 3.5hrs. The12deg will add ~10-15 min. I'm guessing a15deg will add 15-20 min.
 
For a "two or three blade pen knife" I like a Jr. Stockman. Vanishes in your pocket. Good for picking splinters and other fine work. I leave the sheepsfoot blade dull for things like stripping wires and cleaning a car's battery terminals.
 
I'm new here, it's a great forum btw! But for my everyday knife (pocket knife), I carry a Puma Small Medici. It's small and is great for detail work, plus it's a lockback. It really holds an edge well. As far as the larger knife, like some others have stated, you can't go wrong with a nice Buck 110, great knife.
 
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