Working Koa Questions

shappa

shappa

Joined
Oct 15, 1998
Messages
3,556

Hi guys,
Basicly what is Koa like? What woods is it comparable to?

What do you do to finish it?
Thanks!

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~~TOM~~
 
I will pass on what Tom Mayo, the "King of Koa", sent to me when I asked him the same question . . .

"it is very similar to walnut......medium density....fairly open grain...very stable. i usually put some Watco [Danish oil] on it.......let it dry...and do it again about 10 times......it gets darker as you oil it more and more....then finish with very fine sand paper or steel wool...and buff"


[This message has been edited by Summerland (edited 04-03-2000).]
 
I was hoping for exactly that kind of answer...easy to identify with a common wood..eazy, straight to the point directions on how to work it.

Thanks


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~~TOM~~
 
I sent most of my Koa shipment directly to be stabilized. I also tried the crazy glue finish on one knife and it worked great but I like stabilized wood better.
You can see plenty of Koa in use at Toms website www.mayoknives.com
smile.gif

Tom is THE authority on KOA!!
Neil

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Blackwood Knives
Talonite knives in stock!!
http://www.geocities.com/Eureka/Meeting/5520/index.html
 
Here's what I've done on the koa I have from Tom:
1) I tried superglue and it fails, for me, miserably every time, so...
2) Now I finish the handle to whatever grit, and I use 100% pure tung oil, uncut, and start rubbin' it in. It's thick stuff, though. I do it, wipe the excess, let dry for a while, rub with steel wool, and repeat as many times as I can tolerate. I haven't been able to keep the handles a shiny finish, and it eventually turns to a matte sort of finish. That's the best I've been able to manage so far!

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My Knife & Sheath Pages:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/frames.html
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Sheath Makers Referral Directory
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Madpoet (Mel Sorg, Jr.) Tribute page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/madpoet/main.html
 
thats why i recommend Watco..it has an evaporator in it and dries hard...but you need to get a lot of coats to make it really nice.....you can spray it too, but I have never been able to do this with much success, or put Varathane or some such on it, Like a lot of the medium density woods, a nice finish is ESSENTIAL to bringing out the qualities that we use this wood for. Most of the furniture makers i work for either spray with some laquer or use Watco.

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
I've had the best luck with super glue but I don't like using it much.I am trying out some epoxy now we'll see if that works.
This ? for tom mostly. Do you get rid of the grain line. I mean compleately seal and cover them?
I always have a few left.
Take Care
TJ Smith
 
I've found that Birchwood Casey's Sealer and Filler cuts the number of coats of Watco about in half. It is clear and dries fast and hard. After sanding, 3-4 coats of Watco are plenty. DO NOT use the Birchwood Casey Filler. It contains a stain and for most exotic woods you don't want that.

Whatever you do, plan on a week or so to get it done right. Don't try to rush it or the finish will never dry.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
 
I like to use preheated lynseed oil and use lots of coats untill it doesn't soak in any more let it dry good and then lightly sand and buff. After I buff it I then use johnsons paste wax to bring out that dazzling shine ( sounds like a commercial)

Or I use stabilized stuff.

Aloha!!! Ken Onion
 
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