working with brass

G

GrayWall04

Joined
Dec 3, 2005
Messages
51
I bought some brass to make guards with but I didn't want to be just flat so I figured I'd heat them up and work them like steel. I found out that didn't work as the brass became brittle. So I figured I'd try and work it cold. Worked better but I still broke it. What is the best way to make brass guards like suck as the big "S" shaped ones for bowies and ones with finger groves? Thanks
 
First off ,all brass is not the same. Some is made to machine and others are made to be hard.
Brass (and most all non-ferrous metals) are cold work materials. You heat brass to a dull red color (just barely red) and plunge it into water. Now you can work it cold. Re-anneal as it work hardens. If you hammer brass while it is hot, it will crumble.
Stacy
 
The most ductile is cartridge brass ,70 Cu- 30 Zn . Annealing starts out at about 450 F. There is no need [but no danger] in quenching brass. Brass can contain from about 5 % Zn [guilding metal] to 40 % Zn [yellow brass].
 
Lets say you got some brass for guards from Texas knife maker supply.

The brass is 1/2" by 3/4", and you wish to forge it into a more flat and round shape for the butt end of a knife.

Do you heat to red, then quench, then hammer?
 
If your trying to bend it very much Heat up the spot you are bending then hold it for a few second's and quench it water . you can cold forge it a bit for shaping ect but not much for a bend .
 
That's what I do also. I use a wood mallet to make the bends for "S" guards over a mandrel. The wood mandrel won't ding up the brass.
 
Also, remember as you work it, it will harden again. You can (and probably should) anneal it and continue working it again until you feel it harden up. Lather. Rinse. Repeat. :)

-d
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top