Working with old planer blades

Gentlemen, I ask because I don't know, and assume neither does wall e, but if he just heats this steel to cherry red and let's it cool down in a bucket of sand, would that anneal it, and he could worry about heat treat later, or is it simply an issue of it being an unknown steel? If he wants to proceed I would think given his free cost of acquisition, it would be helpful to anneal these planer blades if possible--and then of course harden them later???? Or is that where the rubber meets the road--not knowing how to harden them?
 
My experience with planer blades many years ago was that trying to anneal them was a lost cause. No, I did not have an oven or forge to go with. Frank
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wall e stated the steel was M2. It requires fairly precise temperature control and extended times to anneal. However, tempering the steel to 1400 F is stated to lower the HRc to the high 30s. I am not sure what happens if the hardened steel is taken above 1400 (non magnetic). A high temperature furnace is required for hardening.
 
So i found a flaw in the other knife I was making. Inside the steel was a pocket of air and water from the quenching i did while grinding.
As I was aboqut to glue everything up i tightened the vise and heard a TINK as the blade broke.
 
Thanks for being the I TOLD YA SO Stacy. Lol Is a matter of poor timing bad stock and being in a rush. Sheet happens senor. Lol
 
wall e,
What I am getting at is you several times said you couldn't afford anything else...but now you have spent a lot of time, grinding wheels, sandpaper...and have nothing.

Had you merely filled out your profile and seemed interested in listening and learning about making a knife, I am positive that someone would have sent you some 1084 or similar steel for free.
 
Like we all said...it is a bad idea.

Hey... Don't drag us "all" into this, lol. I told him my experience and i think if he can learn to work with them they "CAN" make a decent knife... as addressed by my previous rant about this steel. I personally believe that planer blades are not a lost cause when it comes to cutlery... they have been used successfully on more than one occasion as i am told, as well, there are always guys on here making knives out of lawn mower blades and old circualr saw blades, so how can a steel designed to hold an edge against wood and fiber and bark not also make at least a "decent" knife? Maybe not a chopper or whatnot, but i was told my blades were D2, and if his are W2 then why pray tell, could they not make a great knife if he learns how to use them from their current state considering these are both highly touted steels in their own right by makers and users alike? As well, although they may not be "experts" in the field of cutlery, the old guys that made blades from these materials where i come from and the hunters that have used them with praise are also fairly knowledgable compared to a lot (not all, or anyone in particualr) of us on here that make em (or talk about them) and hardly ever use the knives we discuss. as they say "you can't argue with results".
 
The best lessons are learned from experience.

I understand sentimentality and wanting follow in the steps of your grandfather.

HOWEVER, depending on the type (and age) of the planer blades, chances are very good that you're looking for a "cheap" AND "useable" knife, you're just wasting your time, and ironically, any money you were trying to save in the process.

As several others have already tried to tell you, you can buy several feet of a known steel that will be MUCH easier to work with, heat treat, and get a decent knife out of, with what ever money you will end up spending on new grinding/cut off wheels, and the dozens of sheets of sand paper you're going to burn through trying to mirror polish hardened M2, D2, or whatever it is you think you have.

If you must continue your efforts on the planer blades, understand that they are currently tempered quite hard (and brittle). That said, a lot of that temper will likely be removed as you attempt to grind/cut your profile and bevels in its hardened state. Theoretically you could anneal the stock, drill, shape, grinder, finish etc... the steel, and then re-harden and temper it, but tool steels typically require fairly precise heating, ramp and soak times, and usually in an oxygen free environment.
Now, some makers do work steels like this hard and then draw the temper back to a useable "knife" hardness, but this involves quality grinding belts on a decent grinder, carbide drill bits, and a heat treat oven to precisely temper the blades. (Your kitchen oven won't get nearly hot enough)

You can of course get it "so so" with angle grinders and loads of sand paper, and possibly even get an edge worked up, but it likely won't sharpen very easily or consistently, and the edge holding will be dubious. At the end of the day, only you can decide what your time and effort is worth. You will already know what grinding wheels and sand paper cost.

Good luck!
 
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Rustyrazor,
What I and some others were trying to impart was not that a planer blade can't be made into a knife, but that with his equipment, skills set, and experience, it was very unlikely he would have a successful attempt.
 
Rustyrazor,
What I and some others were trying to impart was not that a planer blade can't be made into a knife, but that with his equipment, skills set, and experience, it was very unlikely he would have a successful attempt.

Oh, completely agreed... I was just saying, as devils advocate, it can be done. everyone was telling him ''don't do it" and it's not the best method by no means (there's a reason i switched a long time ago) but if he's determined to do it and it appears he is, then lets give him a couple tips and watch what happens.
 
Stacy an knife to a gun fight, I am hearing the simple fact every one is saying, these are blades that are hard and wont yield the quality and shine I want. I have outed myself time that I have spent on this blade that broke and the energy to work it. As far as the cost to profit ratio it has been all profit from these blades so far. I do thank you all for the advice and hopes that I will abandon the old used blade headache and use new soft steel. Sentimentality and the minimal skill and facility for soft steel is my main hurdle.
As for the profile I dont have a pc or laptop just my dumb phone in the tapatalk app and it wont let me edit my profile.
 
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wall e,

Seem that knife making bug got you. I am busy with work nowadays but with some spare moments I wouldn't mind helping you out.

1. Yes, giving up working with M2 at upper hardness range is smart. However ;) if you insist ...

2. Pick clean M2 bars by sand the edges, then etch with vinegar, sand again, look for cracks. Keep bars with no-crack

3. Cut 3 knives profile - I recommend hidden tang, to avoid drilling - with angle grinder (add 0.0125" buffer around the edges). Sander off 0.01" overheated metal off. Do step 2, check for cracks.

4. Surface sand 3 blanks, check for cracks.

5. Grind 2 blanks - leave 0.02" edge thick. 2 in case of tink/ping/oopsy... on your end or my end :p

6. Contact gmail: flexdog2008

I will

i. check hardness and temper them down, probably lower all pieces down to 62RC - will discuss. btw - I just finished 2 M2 knives with hardness=65rc.

ii. grind & clean up your partial grinded blade. grind & keep the 3rd blade as a build along to gain experience with making knives out of pre-hardened M2.

iii. send back - 2 blades + a piece of annealed steel(sorry, I am out of 1084/80crv2/1075, either 1095 or 52100 challenge) + extra for you to complete & play...

best,

bcmw.
 
Bluntcut... where were you when I was learning on old planer blades? lol. I relied on some real hit and miss from old men and a shop teacher.
 
Blunt Cut, this sounds like a fair trade. And especially since I have a 5 gal bucket of blades.😀
 
Wall E: The tapatalk app should have an option to open in a web browser. You should be able to edit your profile from there.

What kind of phone do you have?
 
Stacy - sorry, I didn't see an indirect transaction with my offer. Thus correction...

wall e - a modify offer: send only 2 blades and I will send both back when done - hence no trade taken place.
 
Blunt cut no worries. I forgot also that trades or sales are a no go on this part of the forum
 
To all who have offered advice and suggested I steer away from these blades I am going to be buying some 1080 or 1084 and possibly 1095 as I sell some of these planer blade knives.
 
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