Worksharp precision adjust sandpaper/lapping film

G

Gunner253

Joined
Dec 28, 2020
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I received a worksharp precision adjust for Christmas and so far I think it's a great little piece of kit. The only issue is lack of stones.... I saw a video on youtube by (Sweetknives) where he uses feathering disk adhesive to apply and reapply strips of sand paper and lapping film to the ceramic stone. That 3m adhesive is really expensive and I was curious if there's another adhesive I could use that would work similarly. I see tacky sprays, 3m 77 ect... The tacky sprays seem like they would work but idk about the level of adhesion being enough and the 3m 77 seems too permanent from my reading. Thanks for the replies!
 
If the feathering disk adhesive is the only one to get I'll go that route but I'd like to try something cheaper first if it will work. At 30 dollars plus tax the feathering adhesive is pricey!
 
Hi Gunner, when I worked in a plant, we often applied labels to containers using a spray on super glue. We'd have to use it in a ventilated area, and wear breathing and eye protection. I don't know if this would work for you as I have not used it in a similar application to what you have described, however it does sound like it would provide an consistent layer of adhesive.

Probably what I would do though is use a dab of Gorilla CA glue on either end of the strip, and once the strip has worn out, I would leave the stone submerged in water for a day or two, which would dissolve the glue and allow a fresh application.

Maybe there is a better suggestion, but until then, I hope this helps. Welcome to Bladeforums!
 
Thank you very much, I'll look in to the gorilla ca glue. All my research is pointing to the feathering disk adhesive being the best bet by a long shot tho. Do you think the tacky spray for hobbyist and crafts would hold the paper down enough? That's my only other thought.
 
Not sure. Good luck!
 
I saw the same video and it got me to thinking about using the same technique on my KME using a blank. Would allow me to push past the 1500 grit diamond stone in terms of grit but there are a few things to consider first.

1. What kind of steel you are working with and what kind of abrasive is the sandpaper? If you are working with high vanadium steel (probably over 3% but someone with more steel knowledge can probably chime in) than anything with a grit higher than 400 is going to have some diminishing returns. Usual Silicone carbide sandpaper will cut fine at 120 grit, 300 grit, 400 grit but if the plan is to put a mirror polish on your M390 using SIC sandpaper at 2500 grit you are going to end up with poor edge performance and a more 'burnished' look. If you are mainly working on non PM steels than you should be good to go.

2. Honestly you may be able to get away with some two sided tape. Cut a strip that is just longer than the ceramic and the same width. That is going to be far cheaper and the extra bit of length will allow you to pull it off and reapply a new one when you want to change grits fast rather than soaking the stone to get rid of super glue.

3. The important point of the feathering disk adhesive is that it holds the strip of sandpaper in place hard enough to not allow it to slide off, but when you pull it directly off you can do that fairly easily. Not sure that can be recreated somewhere else. Might be worth biting the bullet and paying the 30$ with the understanding that you are going to be saving money in the long run with sandpaper being far cheaper than new stones. **Keep in mind point 1 though** If you plan on graduating to higher vanadium steel than this method is probably not going to work with commonly available and cheap sand paper.
 
Don't fall into darkness, help will come soon. Photos of the KME stone holder for Precision Adjust. Photos. Not videos. No, don't click it...
Precision_Adjust_KME.jpg
 
David Mary said:
I would leave the stone submerged in water for a day or two, which would dissolve the glue and allow a fresh application.

Maybe there is a better suggestion, but until then, I hope this helps. Welcome to Bladeforums!
Click to expand...
Cyanoacrylate glue does not dissolve in water, but acetone melts it immediately.
I would maybe use a little dab of the old-fashioned rubber cement in the little bottle with the brush attached inside the cap, if it's even still available.
Dunno if the office supply stores even carry that glue anymore...?
 
I didn't use the right word. You're right water won't dissolve it. I conducted a test on Gorilla glue CA as a knife handle adhesive material by leaving a knife submerged for just over 24 hours. The glue began to let go (once the knife was allowed to dry, the bond regained much of its strength, interestingly). So putting the stones in water should allow the sandpaper to be removed from the stones easily, but I agree there would need to be subsequent clean up of the remaining glue residue afterwards. Of course, I guess they could just be submerged in acetone to start with. Thank you for the better suggestion.
 
Hmmm...

On second thought, I can see how submersion in water could erode the bond between the stone and the CA glue.
You're welcome, btw....
 
Thanks everyone for the info. Im just gonna go with feathering disk adhesive bc it seems to be the most tried and true option.
 
I saw the video a day or two ago. I was wondering if you would have to adjust the angle ever so slightly upward when going from factory stones to the ceramic/adhered film combination. This would be to compensate for the added height of the abrasive film and adhesive. otherwise, it might not polish perfectly on the flat of the newly created edge. Conversely; if starting with a coarse sandpaper adhered to ceramic and then going down in grit to the standard factory stone, the angle might have to be lowered a touch. Would that stand to reason?
 
Probably. I use an angle meter whenever I switch stones as no two are exactly same thickness and that changes the angle a few tenths, sometimes more.
 
P. Ortiz said:
I saw the video a day or two ago. I was wondering if you would have to adjust the angle ever so slightly upward when going from factory stones to the ceramic/adhered film combination. This would be to compensate for the added height of the abrasive film and adhesive. otherwise, it might not polish perfectly on the flat of the newly created edge. Conversely; if starting with a coarse sandpaper adhered to ceramic and then going down in grit to the standard factory stone, the angle might have to be lowered a touch. Would that stand to reason?
Click to expand...
It's an interesting idea and I kinda wonder the same. I doubt it would even make a degree difference tho so in all actuality would it affect your edge? I'm not sure, but my assumption would be the difference is too small to not only make a difference but to make an accurate enough adjustment to worry
 
Gunner253 said:
I received a worksharp precision adjust for Christmas and so far I think it's a great little piece of kit. The only issue is lack of stones.... I saw a video on youtube by (Sweetknives) where he uses feathering disk adhesive to apply and reapply strips of sand paper and lapping film to the ceramic stone. That 3m adhesive is really expensive and I was curious if there's another adhesive I could use that would work similarly. I see tacky sprays, 3m 77 ect... The tacky sprays seem like they would work but idk about the level of adhesion being enough and the 3m 77 seems too permanent from my reading. Thanks for the replies!
Click to expand...

I use 3M double sided removable tape with my Wicked Edge system.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IF63/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_QC93QW0FS24S15K2SMGE
 
Working Edge said:
Any ETA?
Click to expand...
ETA End of March.
Two versions will be released at the same time: 1) for Edge Pro and 6" stones and 2) for KME and 4" stones. We were unable to choose one and discard another. 4" version has substantially better usability but this stone form-factor is virtually non-existent in Europe.
Prices are unknown at the moment.
 
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