Worst knife week ever!

Well they still sell liner locks so they are being bought but I would bet that of the knife nuts on this site, there are just as many who stay away from linerlocks as there are those that like them.

They have the tendancy to occassionally fail, even within a certain model that is known as good. And you don't know if yours will or when it will happen. I'm sure I will catch crap for that but until you have had it happen to you, you won't get what I'm trying to say. Its happened to me and I know it has happened to others. So like I said before there is a fairly large segment of users who have learned to stay away from them.
 
All locks can and will fail, cheap knives have given good LL a bad name.
 
freq18hz said:
Hah!

So this week, I purchased the following:

1 regular sized olive drab combo edge drop point Benchmade griptilian

1 olive drab D2 straight edge drop point mini griptilian

1 columbia river knife and tool (CKRT) m16 EDC

Status:

The big griptilian came somewhat sharp, but not razor

The mini griptilian came SO DULL that I haven't been able to get it to cut paper, even after 300 passes on my sharpmaker

AND THE BEST YET:

My CKRT m16 just arrived from amazon. STRONGEST LOCK IN THE BUSINESS? DAMN STRAIGHT! I flicked the knife open 3 times. On the 4th, the liner lock is stuck above the blade, and the knife won't close.

LAWKS is strong alright, its so strong, you can't close it!

So now I have one kinda dull knife, another knife that won't cut butter, and a razor sharp knife that can't close...

YAY!


UPDATE: loosened the big center screw on the CKRT M16, and got it to close. But unfortunately, when I tighten it all the way so the blade has maximum clearance when closing (and therefore the liner lock in the right position when open) the damn thing is so stiff I can't open it hardly, especially not with the flipper.

Any ideas?


-Freq
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Switch to Spyderco, nuff said. Benchmade sharpens for free, often better than first factory sharpening. Just send it in. Also, get some Japanese water stones. A Sharpmaker is kinda misleading, can't really do much with a dull blade.
 
As far as the CRKT lockup problem, I also have an m16 (bought about 6 or7 years ago) that was giving me the same problem. I had a jeweler friend take it down and run a bit across the face of the linerlock. Didn't really remove any(that you could tell), more like polishing a feed ramp on a 1911 that doesn't want to feed ammo. Really slick knife now.

I have since upgraded to a Kershaw blur tanto that is sick sharp and easier for me when I'm up under a car and need a sharp pointy stabby thing and only have one hand and can't see what I'm doing. The CRKT now had some nice red oak grips on it and is my sunday/going to town knife :)
 
I reprofile on my sharpmaker by using low grit (300-400) sandpaper taped around the rods. I got this tip from youtube guy virtuovice.

For something soft like AUS8 it only takes a minute or two. For something like D2 that is up there over 60HRC, it takes longer but still 100x better than trying to do it with the brown stones.
 
FlaMtnBkr said:
Well they still sell liner locks so they are being bought but I would bet that of the knife nuts on this site, there are just as many who stay away from linerlocks as there are those that like them.

They have the tendancy to occassionally fail, even within a certain model that is known as good. And you don't know if yours will or when it will happen. I'm sure I will catch crap for that but until you have had it happen to you, you won't get what I'm trying to say. Its happened to me and I know it has happened to others. So like I said before there is a fairly large segment of users who have learned to stay away from them.
Click to expand...

I understand what you are saying. I prefer framelocks but that wont stop me from trying a liner out if I like the knife enough , Kershaw's Zing and Chill come to mind.

Tostig
 
So I took the CKRT apart, lubricated it, and put it back together. It's still screwed up. I think the problem is this:

The liner lock is manufactured poorly, so it is severely pushing the blade to one side when the knife is closed. The only way to keep this from happening is to tighten the pivot screw so much that the knife can't easily be opened or closed. And even then, the liner lock sticks above the rear of the blade.

This one is going to have to go back to CKRT. I'm pretty dissapointed, CKRT is supposed to be a good knife by all accounts.

Perhaps I will go back to Kershaw or try Spyderco.

Can anyone recommend a griptilian like Spyderco knife? Spyderco's website isn't so easy to browse the models.

-Freq
 
Worst knife week for me as well. My initial try at sharpening S30V didn't work out well and finally found an answer to why most military automatics seem to have weak springs...wasn't holding on to one firmly enough while opening it.
Thing slipped outta my hand and fell to the floor, not before deciding to scrape it's tanto point on my bare left leg giving me a bloody scratch three inches long. First Blood.
 
a 300 dollar folding knife? How is it better than a benchmade? Seems a little rich for my blood...


-Freq
 
freq18hz said:
a 300 dollar folding knife? How is it better than a benchmade? Seems a little rich for my blood...


-Freq
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it becomes apparent when you hold one. however this is the only way youll be able to find out.

lots of people, even some who have owned expensive knives, will disagree. it's all opinion. lots of people with tons of money dont buy ferraris or dali paintings or bottles of krug
 
freq18hz said:
Can anyone recommend a griptilian like Spyderco knife? Spyderco's website isn't so easy to browse the models.

-Freq
Click to expand...

I would recommend a Spyderco Endura roughly $60, great steel super sharp out of the box, and amazing cutting power.
 
Thanks all! Ended up getting a spyderco delica, straight edge.

It's decently sharp. I wonde how hard is VG10 to sharpen?
 
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