Worth It? SureFire KR-1

[gundude73]

What is the situation with using an LED drop-in in a plain G2? That is, not the G2L with the metal bezel, but the plain G2 with the Nitrolon bezel. I understand this can be a problem. Anybody that can weigh in?

it is perfectly fine, i have a G2 that i dropped an LED in, no aluminum bezel, and it works great. no problems whatsoever :thumbup:

 

[Roger999]

Some thoughts:

--NiCad "Memory" is a myth, and nothing to worry about.

--Using a 700MAH battery (supplied by SF in the kit) powering a P61 bulb will yield about 10 minutes of usable light. The P61 bulb draws a little over 2 amps.

--The P60L is an LED lamp module that uses a Seoul P4 LED. It's a little brighter than the P60, but can't touch a P61. However, it will give you better runtime with the rechargeable battery.

--The Lumensfactory replacements quote huge output numbers, but they're deceptive and not realistic. Stay with SF bulbs.

It seems counter productive to pay $50 for an led drop in or $100 for a rechargeable conversion for a $30 flashlight...... A way to estimate the "surefire rated lumens" of a lumens factory bulb is to multiply it by 0.55, eg the SR-9 @ 220lumens will be around 121 SF lumens, around the same output as the p90/p61 bulb

 

[trukreltrog]

The bad thing about the G2 is its not metal. You can run into heat problems swapping higher lumen bulbs in. Metal body flashlights are better for removing heat from the Bulb/LED, than plastic. I'm partial to the Malkoff drop ins, but the high lumen ones could melt your G2.

M60LL would be OK. I have one in my old skool 6P, it has a plastic lens instead of the newer glass lens. Hasn't melted it yet. 80 lumens for 8 hours, get one before they are gone.

 

[SIFU1A]

i have not had very good luck with rechargeables myself, they seem to work fine at 1st then slowly not hold the charge as well the older they get.

i would go with a LED and get the batts in bulk from SF myself.