Would this make a good camp axe?

Darbyfett

Darbyfett

Joined
May 1, 2007
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axe-wood_1.jpg


I like stuff with character, and when I saw this axe, I was in love. However, I am a broke 21 year old and can't afford alot of goodies. So would this axe do well in a outdoors/camping situation. Track of the wolf has it listed as a Woodworkers axe, So I assume it could hold up to chopping. But Im curious what you experienced outdoors folk think!

edit: Also if this helps at all, the head is 18oz and the edge is 4 1/4"
 
doesnt look like the head has enough weight for chopping.

i think a woodworker's axe is more for carving and the like.

and with that shape, the head would get stuck in the wood.
 
it would be great for shaping something, like making a lap joint for two logs, but i think it is not overall versatile.
 
The shape of the head would make it good for light chopping and taking branches off a fallen tree. But you`re missing alot of surface area there if you want to use your ax for splitting. It all comes down to what you want to use it for. Greatfor light chopping. Bad for heavy chopping and splitting.
 
These are not the answers I want to hear! Lol. I had that concern when I first saw it, but I though I would ask anyway. The look appealed to me so I fell in love. But like I said, I am a broke young fella and I need something I can depend on for chopping.Although I do have A Khukri, I want a tomahawk that can chop as well. Guess I will just go with one of the more popular all around tomahawks. Thanks!
 
Have one. Bearded axe. Works as well as any of the 23 different tomahawks I have. Better than my chair makers axe. Better than my NE belt axe, for all around work.
Outstanding as a carving axe. Throws well.
 
Looks OK to me.... you should check if the head is securely attached to the shaft, that's the critical thing.

When you get a bit of cash together, I can totally recommend Gransfors Bruks, traditional forged axes from Sweden. They are really nice to look at, AND work like gangbusters. http://www.gransfors.com/htm_eng/index.html

I took down a small tree with my Small Forest Axe on the weekend and it was still sharp as when I was done./

Hell, I'm keen for another one myself... prolly the wildlife hatchet.

Actually, are you sure that isn't a Gransfors? They have one that looks just like that http://www.gransfors.com/htm_eng/index.html

Mark
 
The farther away from the work, the less control you'll have. The closer to the work type hatchet,even an El cheapo from the hardware store, would be better for chopping.
 
Buy an Estwing with the blue nylon handle. They make three sizes: a standard (small) hatchet, a big hatchet, and a light axe. Take your pick. Buy an Estwing now and it should last for your whole lifetime. You will love it!
 
Good advice Dr. If you like that design heres one that would be more to your likeing and practical. Ragnar's service one of the best.
lhttp://ragweedforge.com/ThrowingCatalog.html#roselli
 
Stick with the proven stuff. If you are on the broke side, you don't want to toss your hard earned dough away on experimenting.

BTW, if you want a good camp tomahawk, I would recommend the FT. Turner Camp Hawk or get a CS Frontier Hawk and do it up to your liking.

FT. Turner:

tak.jpg


2 CS Frontier Hawks I modified: Initial cost was about 20 bucks each. Well spent I might add.

hawk2.jpg


cs_combo.jpg
 
You can find a better hatchet at a flea market than you can find in most hardware/outdoor stores. Look for an American made head with the helve broken off. This should cost you between 25 cents and 2 dollars. Then buy a new helve for 5 dollars and stick em together.
 
2dogs said:
You can find a better hatchet at a flea market than you can find in most hardware/outdoor stores. Look for an American made head with the helve broken off. This should cost you between 25 cents and 2 dollars. Then buy a new helve for 5 dollars and stick em together.
Click to expand...

Roger that! I do like my two newer Estwings, but I certainly agree with your suggestion of finding an older axe or hatchet head that's cheap and putting in a new handle. I'm still using an excellent ball peen hammer I found (just the head) in a junk pile in 1965. I went to Sears back then, got a good handle, put it on using epoxy and a steel wedge, and it's still as solid as the day I put it together. It has sure had plenty of use, too! Based on the other stuff in that pile, I suspect it was WWII vintage military surplus.
 
Thanks for the recommendations everybody. I failed to mention that i prefer primitive blades. I do really like Ft. Turner hawks and i like hb forge too. I will most likely go with a more popular hawk style. As much as i like style, function comes first. Thanks!
 
If you don't have the $$$$, a Fiskar's or Gerber will do the trick until you're an old man and have lots of money :)
 
Just got an A.G Russel's 'Gull Wing' ax - check it out, it gives you a lot of 'bang for the buvk'!
 
That Ft. Turner sure looks like it's got my name on it! Thanks for posting the pics, nice job on the CSs too!
 
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned Wetterlings. 1/4 the price of a Gransfors Bruks and very well made.
 
If you want to split hardwood, most hawks are not optimal due to the drastic transition between the blade and cheek. The same is true of some models of GB's, which after all come from a land with little hardwood. Great cutters.

Because I carry a folding saw, my prejudice in an axe is for a good splitter. Don't need a cutter per se. What I can't (or won't) saw, I can burn in half.

Tons of old Plumb, Collins, Vaughn & Bushnell, Keen Kutter, Norlund, True Temper (the old stuff), and Kelly hand axes are around. Many have poles that have been peened some by folks who think the pole is a subsitute for a sledge. They come fairly cheap, and if the eye has not been smashed out of true, a file can dress them up for decades of work. Some were obviously used about once (Too $#@!^& like hard work!) and put away - just some surface rust.

I just picked up a Vaughn & Bushnell "bi-metallic" (1095 blade and something tougher for the eye) today, nearly new for $5.00. 95% of the paint still there. Can't wait to try it out.

(One warning, the Norlund takes an odd-sized handle. The standard "Scout" handle doesn't fit.)
 
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