Would this work for a hammer?

S

squigly1965

Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Messages
125
would something like this work for a powered hammer. The picture is pretty crude.
But the chisel tip would likely be cut and a hammer head or such metal would be welded in place. The leaf spring would be adjustable allowing the "hammer" to stay off the work piece till pulled down.

Alright let me know what you all think. If there are any questions. I'll try to answer.

Before this one gets asked. I dont have and probably wont have enough money for a Powered Hammer for a very long time.

Thanks for looking


Hammer.jpg
 
Harbor Freight sells this exact setup as a sheet metal hammer. It's not going to do you much (if any) good to be honest. I can actually see it making many things slower and less efficient.

I'd suggest just getting a hammer and anvil, you'll get work done faster.

-d
 
Hmmm

i was just at HF the other day. Maybe I seen it and it stuck in my mind.

really you think this wouldn't work. I was hoping i would get lucky
 
You might want to try something more like this. I'm told its a treadle hammer. Basically, its a foot powered hammer. I didn't make it. I just know how to contact the guy who did. I'm sure he'd be glad to help you with any instructions in building one.
 
nice looking treadle hammer!
the only other one I have seen had an overarm and the return spring was on top. (sorry, no pic) it also had swapable base plates and hammer faced so the guy could use it for dishing sheet stock.
 
yea i seen the spare tire. i liked it.
hell i like this one too. not sure on the foot power thing.

my man issue is money which i dont have. but i do have time and some limited steel. not enough to do either of those though. when i get a little more able i'll see then.

I was just hoping for a low cost hamer. I mean the one i drew up would cost me maybe $50 cuz i think i have the steel to do it.
 
squigly1965 said:
yea i seen the spare tire. i liked it.
hell i like this one too. not sure on the foot power thing.

my man issue is money which i dont have. but i do have time and some limited steel. not enough to do either of those though. when i get a little more able i'll see then.

I was just hoping for a low cost hamer. I mean the one i drew up would cost me maybe $50 cuz i think i have the steel to do it.
Click to expand...



What you are looking for is what's called an Oliver Hammer, basically a LARGE sledgehammer on a pivot, connected to a foot pedal.

But honestly, if you have limited steel and money, but you have time I suggest you just hand hammer.
 
squigly1965 said:
yea i seen the spare tire. i liked it.
hell i like this one too. not sure on the foot power thing.

my man issue is money which i dont have. but i do have time and some limited steel. not enough to do either of those though. when i get a little more able i'll see then.

I was just hoping for a low cost hamer. I mean the one i drew up would cost me maybe $50 cuz i think i have the steel to do it.
Click to expand...

In that case, I recomend a heavy piece of steel, like a section of rail road track, shape it to how you want, and some good hammers. That air hammer won't really do much. It lacks both control and power. Besides, there's nothing better than smacking hot steel on a bad day.:thumbup:
 
I have seen a Rube Goldberg contraption with bicycle wheels, cables, springs, and a big hammer head...that was all counter balanced to allow the smith to pull the hammer down with a good "Whack" and then let the mechanics lift it back up. It made me chuckle.

If you get some sort of anvil ( even a HF 55#, or one of those ebay $19 for a 50 # jobs) and a simple cross pein hammer ( HF) you can forge some knives ( assuming you have a forge to work the steel in). For the first several years , you will need nothing heavier than a 3# hammer and your hand.

A power device won't make the knives for you. Practice and learning the skills will.
Stacy
 
bladsmth said:
I have seen a Rube Goldberg contraption with bicycle wheels, cables, springs, and a big hammer head...that was all counter balanced to allow the smith to pull the hammer down with a good "Whack" and then let the mechanics lift it back up. It made me chuckle.

If you get some sort of anvil ( even a HF 55#, or one of those ebay $19 for a 50 # jobs) and a simple cross pein hammer ( HF) you can forge some knives ( assuming you have a forge to work the steel in). For the first several years , you will need nothing heavier than a 3# hammer and your hand.

A power device won't make the knives for you. Practice and learning the skills will.
Stacy
Click to expand...

Hey I am a bike mechanic and we get all sorts of scrap bikes, I should jerry rig something up. I could get some triathlete to pedal the crap out of it, just by telling them is a new high end training method:p
 
unky_gumbi said:
Hey I am a bike mechanic and we get all sorts of scrap bikes, I should jerry rig something up. I could get some triathlete to pedal the crap out of it, just by telling them is a new high end training method:p
Click to expand...

thats the ticket



I think I bought a 4 lb cross pein some time ago. Would that be too much. also have a 23 oz ball pein. If i need to I can get the 3 lb'er tho

And yea I build a 2 Brick forge. I gets pretty hot. But definitely upping as soon as possible there.
 
I understand the rush to get into all this..... really I do but you need to go ahead and forge a knife before you get too wrapped up in power hammers and other stuff. I made a bunch of knives on a HF 55# (which was a big step up from an 8# sledgehammer in a bucket of concrete.)

Finish a knife or two then evaluate your abilities and true desire to make knives. It's really easy to get caught up in it and find you really don't have the drive to FINISH a knife.

I always say a lot of people start their first knife, few finish their first knife, fewer ever start a stecond one.
 
I know and understand. I was just hoping it might work. I figured it wouldn't that someone else had already thought what i did and knew better.

Looks like my first anvil is going to be a 50 lb calibration weight it's got a 8" by 5.5" suface i can work on. as for hammer i got the 2 i listed


about a knife well I'm kinda doing a stock removal on some stainless steel i got from my last job. but things aren't looking good. It's likely 300 series, it's non-magnetic. But it's becoming a learning experience with the tools. so not a complete loss.
 
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