Would you scrap it?

C

CDH

Joined
Jun 8, 2007
Messages
283
I look at some defects in natural wood as, well, natural and therefore I don't demand a perfect slab of wood before I'm willing to deliver it. This one is pushing my limits of tolerance and I would like to hear some opinions before I continue to burn hours on it...

Some background. This knife has been a problem child and I'm ready to just give it back to the guy. I am doing it as a favor to a co-worker. He didn't like the one hunting knife design I am comfortable selling, so he picked out a blank from the TKS catalog and I agreed to finish it for $50 (my wood, pins, etc.). The blank had serious problems with rounded corners (over buffed) and the tang taper was badly uneven, so correcting that has already cost me several hours I hadn't budgeted. This was my second attempt at soldering bolsters too, and that also went badly, adding more time and frustration.

Now, in roughing out the scales I opened up this check. It is deep enough to catch a fingernail and if I don't stabilize it I think it would flake off about 1/4" wide by 1/16" deep. Right now it is just about 1/16" wide and deep enough to catch a fingernail in...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a297/cdhcmh/Knives/PC090002_cropped.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a297/cdhcmh/Knives/PC090001_cropped.jpg

Look at the light line running from the bolster down to the finger side at about a 45 degree angle. That is it. This is a slab of mesquite I cut and dried myself, so it is 3-4 years dry.

What do you think? Scrap the scales and start over (again:grumpy:) or finish it (and add some superglue to the crack to seal it)?
 
I say if you already epoxied the scales down to add some superglue to the crack and finish it! If it's epoxied down the wood's not going to move anyways unless he abuses it.
 
Oh yeah, scales are epoxied in. The only thing left do do is finish shaping and sealing the wood and polishing the bolster and blade. It is that close to done...:foot:
 
Don't dare scrap it then; it sounds like you already put more hours than you bargained into it. Put a good glossy finish on the handle too and you won't even be able to tell that it's there.
 
CDH I also use a lot of mesquite, I would not scrap it sand with some 400 grit sandpaper and let the dust fill the gap then add some real thin super glue let it dry a day and you will be good.
 
From looking at the pics I think you'll be alright with filling with thin supper glue and wood dust. Best thing to do is leave the knife alone for a couple of days letting the glue dry and work on somthing else.
 
CDH
Don't agonize over it, it's a 50 favor for a co worker, not a knife you forged from scratch and are marking with your logo. I am in a similar position, a friend at work wanted a knife, I get it about finished up its got stabalized burl, yada, yada. Looks real good, 'cept I see a couple teeeenie little scratches that I want to fix, then I think that the burl is way to pretty for kydex so a leather sheath is order. Then I find out friday that this guy thinks that he was hoping to pay 50$ and $75 would be alot of money! I wrapped it in kydex, no logo, no more working on it and were done.

Rick
 
Dissenting opinion

The agreement was $50 for your wood and your hardware. It's not his fault that your wood had a defect - and if you have to ask if you should scrap it....

FWIW, you didn't charge nearly enough - even if all went well - but thats for next time. He could have bought TKS blank quality at WalMart - with a finished handle and sheath and satisfaction guarantee - for about $39. Don't give him handcrafted of lower quality for more money.

I don't know the situation well enough to feel strongly about this - but someone had to speak the other side.

Rob!
 
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