Would you stake your life on a Mora?

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Les Stroad uses nothing but a Leatherman, but he always seems to make it out in the end.

They just had three Survivorman episodes in a row and on one trip he cut his finger a good one with the Leatherman while cutting a vine and watching monkeys overhead at the same time. Wouldn't have happened with a mora, nope nope nope ;)
 
Oh boy, I should have known better. I turned this discussion into one about Survivorman. Sorry, its not what I was trying to do.
 
I was hiking around a remote lake with my 12 year old twin boys. I saw coyote tracks and scat. I was a little concerned. You never know if they have rabies. I was glad to have a Cold Steel SRK with me. I felt I could do something, if needed. I also had a walking stick. I wished I had my Glock 27, but that was in the car.

Just one of those times where you think you might be in trouble if things turn bad. We never saw a coyote and had a good time. A few months before this there was a young boy dragged off by a mountain lion at Bartlett lake.
 
The simple answer is NO! If you want to play bushcraft in the woods, a Mora is just fine. If you end up in a survival situation, you better have a quality, large, full tang survival knife, preferably with a handguard. I've never understood the fascination with Mora knives. I'm sure they're great for making wooden tools and carving. Who is going to do that in a survival situation? If I was in a survival situation, I'd prefer to have my Ontario SP10 Marine Raider Bowie at my side, along with a quality multi tool.
 
The wild animal thing aside, a Mora as your one and only cutting tool in a real survival situation may be a problem. I have broken them splitting wood and prying out splits. Sure, you can call that abuse but in a survival situation abuse may be required. A Mora is great for cleaning game, carving wood and shaving tinder. Not so good for the tough stuff. I carry a Mora in the pack for utility but have something a bit heavier handy as well; SRK, KaBar, Becker. belt axe, etc.
Well stated, and on point.
 
The whole purpose of testing something to failure is to find it's boundaries. I would rather do that in my back yard, and then be confident of the knife out in the woods. Some knives, $$$, I won't buy 2 just to test and destroy one. When moras are only $9, then I will. That way, I'll know what its limits are in the wild. I've had a few break unexpectedly on me with only mild stress (batoning with wood), had edges chip out dramatically with mild cutting tasks (fuzz sticks), and had others perform with no failures. I'm not trying to treat them like a Busse, just test them with tasks that I know I'll be performing in the woods. If you don't baton wood in the wild, fine, but I do, and will carry a knife that can handle that task.

The performance/quality has varied enough for me that I'll leave my moras at home. For light cutting, I have folders (including SAK's) that handle that, and for larger chopping, I have durable fixed blades. My smaller blades cut much better due to better steels and geometry, and the larger chop better for the same reasons. The mora for me just doesn't take care of any of my needs as well as other blades do. It's like an answer in search of a question. Now in the yard or garden, I love them, but that's a different story.

For those who like them and trust them, enjoy! There's room for everyone here.
Agreed - 100%
 
The simple answer is NO! If you want to play bushcraft in the woods, a Mora is just fine. If you end up in a survival situation, you better have a quality, large, full tang survival knife, preferably with a handguard. I've never understood the fascination with Mora knives. I'm sure they're great for making wooden tools and carving. Who is going to do that in a survival situation? If I was in a survival situation, I'd prefer to have my Ontario SP10 Marine Raider Bowie at my side, along with a quality multi tool.
My bushcraft black has been through the wringer and bent, pryed, beaten again and again for years.

The bushcraft black is an amazing knife and the plastic sheath is also excellent. It will not break or fail you.
 
It's tough to baton wood with a 4.3" blade. That said, that's the first Morakaniv I've seen that actually looks decent, as it has a small guard to keep your hand from slipping onto the blade. Is it full tang - NO (a Cold Steel SRK is full tang). Is it as long as a CS SRK - NO. Does it have a better sheath than a Cold Steel SRK - (NO)^2. Is it more expensive than a Cold Steel SRK in SK5 (1085 carbon steel) -YES, by $15 to $20! I really try to be respectful of the Morakaniv fans. I understand they love bushcrafting, and I don't. I'm not even a fan of the Cold Steel SRK in SK5. Perhaps 6 years ago, CS decided to switch the SRK to a hollow grind, which made the tip weak sauce. However, that hollow grind might work better for bushcrafting, as opposed to survival. BTW, Cold Steel sells the Outdoorsman Lite, which is their take on Morakaniv's stainless blades. It has a 6" 4116 Krupp stainless steel blade that's 3_mm thick, a Scandinavian grind, a Morakaniv style sheath, a full tang that sticks out the back of the handle, jimping on the blade spine, a very grippy handle, and a hard rubber handguard, all for $20. If I was going to bushcraft, why would I buy a Morakaniv over that knife? If I want a short, thin blade, I'll just use my Leatherman Wave.
 
We have descriptions of Bushcraft Knives, but other than Military Survival knives what is the definition of "The Survival Knife" ?
 
Id trust my bushcraft black model that's why I got 2 of them. I haven't field dressed anything yet but I'm sure it would do well though awkward.
 
We have descriptions of Bushcraft Knives, but other than Military Survival knives what is the definition of "The Survival Knife" ?
I think this answer is the dot on "i" in this thread!

My definition of a survival knife is that knife compact and lightweight enough to remain pasted to your body when you are so exhausted that you start dropping off everything you have to run faster for your life. For this reason I don't understand people talking about big bowie knives, machetes, Kukris, and bolos, when it comes to survival.

When we talk about planned camping and expeditions, yes, for sure your primary tool should be something big and sturdy. However, if things go wrong, that's when we talk about survival. If you get attacked when you've just put your backpack away to go to the "toilet", and you run for your life while your friends get eaten alive screaming behind you, then you have the survival knife with you, being that compact knife that you have never left over from your strap or belt (not even when you sleep; not even when nature calls). Everyone should judge for himself what's the maximum size and weight for a knife to fit that purpose. I think all of the Moras fit in that ecuation. I think the Cold Steel SRK size is the maximum size knife that can fit that purpose (and that may still be a little heavy/large for some people depending on physionomy).

Mora knives (including the standard Companion, Pro-S, Pro-C, Bushcraft, 2000, and Kansbol; and even the basic) have significant advantages that make them preferred by so many people:

* Lightweight like a feather (so light for its size, that you can wear it all the time without feeling an extra-weight).
* Made of materials that are impervious to the elements and quick/easy to clean (including the sheath). You can hold it for prolonged periods exposed to direct sunlight, different substances, oils, gasoline, alcohol, and drag it through the mud, moisture, keeping it wet forever and will not degrade.
* Rigid sheath that holds it safe, without the risk of piercing through the sheath if you press it tightly in between your gear within a backpack.
* Sharp like a razor and easy to resharpen in the field, with a simple flat stone.
* Scandi grind with a very acute edge angle, which cuts through wood with less effort than any tactical or bowie knife. As wood is the primary (and sometimes the only) material that you can find in the wilderness to process for tools, shelter, etc., cutting more time with less effort and less wear in the joint and muscles is esential.
* Ergonomic handle which is mold injected and covered with rubberized thermoplastic offers better ergonomy for extended use, especially when force cutting wood. Try cutting hardwood (like beech or oak) for 3 hours in a row with a Mora Bushcraft, then repeat the process with a Cold Steel SRK, or Fallkniven A1, or with any knife that has a micarta handle, without wearing gloves. You will understand what I mean! The Moras reduce by far the fatique and palm skin tear.
* A very pure alloy stainless steel, which is able to sustain an extremely thin edge (compared with high alloys and supersteels, which typically need at least 25 degrees per side to hold those carbides in a stable edge). The Mora's thin edge can cut with less effort, especially into wood (saving calories and reducing palm wear is esential in a survival situation).
* Great edge retention. The edge retention of a knife does not depend on the steel only, but also on the edge angle (the more acute, the more it will cut until resharpening is needed). A scandi Mora Companion in the stainless Sandvik 12C27 @57 HRC will do more cuts into Manila rope than a tactical knife with a 25 degrees edge angle in 1095, AUS8, or SK-5, as well as more cuts than a Fallkniven A1 in VG10 @59 HRC that has a convex edge (source: edge retention tests publicly shared on Youtube by the Cedric & Ada channel).
* Surprisingly tough, impact resistant and abuse resistant (especially for such a thin, high performance, blade). I suggest watching the destruction tests published by Joe-X on Youtube for the Mora Companion Stainless, Mora Companion HD, as well as the same tests he did on other well known tactical and bowie knives that are well known. Not many of them resisted to the same level of abuse as the Mora.
 
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Back to bed...where it was resting for 16.5 years.
 
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