Wrap&weld tomahawk WIP pics

Kentucky

Kentucky

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Dec 13, 2008
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The start of a wrap & weld tomahawk thread. ill add more later today too
This is a piece ofg mild steel 1/4" thick by 1 1/2" wide and 9 1/2" long. I take a heat then round the inside of the strap that will be the eye. This isn't a must have but it keep the eye from fish-lipping when you bend it..
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Then I take over to a hardy
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bend it around til it touces itself
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Heres the drift we use. We made it after wearing out so many of the cast ones..
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Here you form the eye close as possible before welding. That just means less work after and better contact for the weld
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heres the eye blank and the cutting bit forged out from a piece of W1 tool steel. Scarfed very thin
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All put together ready to go in the fire
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Deep in a fire for welding heat.. Heat well past the point to be welded..Thats where most mess up the eye. It needs a welding heat well past that..
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I cut off the flashing to show the welds..this is what they are suppose to look like. No seams, no lines just solid metal..You will see seems and lines in the scale etc but when you grind it clean this is what its suppose to look like
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A side note in these pic you will see Hoop tongs. if you decide to make more of these style hawks do yourself a favor and make some hoop tongs
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Rough forged to shape
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Kentucky, I’ve got a question. I’ve got a few of these planned. Is there an advantage to welding the steel to itself in front of the handle compared to welding the bit right up to the handle?
 
Willie71 said:
Kentucky, I’ve got a question. I’ve got a few of these planned. Is there an advantage to welding the steel to itself in front of the handle compared to welding the bit right up to the handle?
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That’s a good question and I was actually going to mention that. I’ve done it a bunch both ways. I’d actually say it’s easier to weld up with a full length bit. Since the HC steel welds at a lower heat and you have a flat even surface to weld. With the bit in the front like pictured it takes multiple welding passes to get it all together correctly before you can start forging because of all the uneven surfaces.
I remember I made a bunch of these once with a full length 1075 bit(from Aldo) and it worked great and easier to weld up.
 
Kentucky said:
That’s a good question and I was actually going to mention that. I’ve done it a bunch both ways. I’d actually say it’s easier to weld up with a full length bit. Since the HC steel welds at a lower heat and you have a flat even surface to weld. With the bit in the front like pictured it takes multiple welding passes to get it all together correctly before you can start forging because of all the uneven surfaces.
I remember I made a bunch of these once with a full length 1075 bit(from Aldo) and it worked great and easier to weld up.
Click to expand...


Thank you. That helps a lot!
 
Very nice, thank you for posting!
 
Good stuff! We don't have nearly enough of these types of threads any more. Thanks for taking the time to share!
 
Thanks for posting that. I have a long ways to go before I’m on this level!
 
Great WIP! Thanks for posting :)

When you say you round the bar where the eye will be, are you just dishing that section out? That's what it looks like, but it's kind of hard to show that in pictures.
 
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