Wskt-ko blade grinding attachment

Bobby3326

Bobby3326

Joined
Mar 16, 2013
Messages
2,239
Does anyone else have or use the blade grinding attachment for the ko work sharp? I just picked it up yesterday and was just now getting a feel for it when I made a confusing discovery. Im using the x4 belt and using sharpie along the edge to get a feel for the machine before using the coarser belts.

Well the knife I'm using has already been sharpened on the regular ko work sharp@ 22.5° per side, now using the blade grinding attachment I adjusted the angle until I removed the Sharpie which ended up being @15° per side.

So now I'm a lil confused at to which one is correct..
 
Ok before anyone points it out I'm not sure why this ended up in this sub forum...I posted under maintenance and I guess the app glitched.
 
No worries on the wrong subforum. I'm sure there will be a mod along soon enough that can move it.

As to the question posted in the original post, I'd guess that maybe you weren't holding the knife "at the angle the guide calls for" but I dunno. That is just pure speculation.

I have the grinding attachment as well and I like it, however the belts are too short to last for any real "stock removal" work which makes me wonder what the attachment is actually for. Be that as it may, I got it at blade for a stupid good deal so I'm not TOO worried about it. I got both for the price of the worksharp regularly.
 
Chameleonbear said:
No worries on the wrong subforum. I'm sure there will be a mod along soon enough that can move it.

As to the question posted in the original post, I'd guess that maybe you weren't holding the knife "at the angle the guide calls for" but I dunno. That is just pure speculation.

I have the grinding attachment as well and I like it, however the belts are too short to last for any real "stock removal" work which makes me wonder what the attachment is actually for. Be that as it may, I got it at blade for a stupid good deal so I'm not TOO worried about it. I got both for the price of the worksharp regularly.
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Yea I was hoping it'd be capable of some grinding. I have a few knives I wanna take to a full height convex, and I tried on a cheap gerber as a trial and it's not gonna work out. It lacks the power needed to accomplish it, it takes way to long and heats the blade up too much. Looks like a 1x30 will be my next purchase, harbor freight had em for around $50.

The post actually went here and in maintenance where another guy said he noticed the same thing that 20° on the work sharp is 15° on the blade grinder, you a lil adjustment in belt tension might correct it.
 
Though the 1x30 can heat a blade fast, there is a lot of belts available online, including straight leather for a strop/really high grit via compound used. And it makes projects Much easier than hand work, trust me... I full height convexed, or near full height at least, an BK2. That was a Pain in the tuckus (and elbow... and shoulder... and forearm... and my whole upper right half).
 
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NJBillK said:
Though the 1x30 can heat a blade fast, there is a lot of belts available online, including straight leather for a strop/ewally high grit via compound used. And it makes projects Much easier than hand work, trust me... I full height convexed, or near full height at least, an BK2. That was a Pain in the tuckus (and elbow... and shoulder... and forearm... and my whole upper right half).
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That's actually the main one I wanted to do with this blade grinder...I started by hand and got a good way before stopping lol....
 
It may not work for what I originally intended it for, but it Definitely gets a knife super sharp thou. Much sharper than the wskt alone.

x6paSKP.jpg
 
The HF 1x30 is not a real grinder either. It's a toy.
A Craftsman/Delta/whatever 1x42 will be much more serious with 1/3HP and a disc too.

Still, I wouldn't want to make a knife on one of those either (again). But they're sweet for shaping handle materials, kydex, etc.
 
I have the WSKO and I like it a lot, but I'm not very good at it....yet. Anyway, I was interested in using it for some mods but I didn't know about the grinding belts. I'm a bit confused. Are these aftermarket or are you talking about the courser grit belts included with the device?
 
Tdhurl1103 said:
I have the WSKO and I like it a lot, but I'm not very good at it....yet. Anyway, I was interested in using it for some mods but I didn't know about the grinding belts. I'm a bit confused. Are these aftermarket or are you talking about the courser grit belts included with the device?
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We're referring to the blade grinding attachment for the Ken onion wskt...It's a separate tool that connects to the Ken onion wskt. It's more free handed style sharpening over the original. It comes with the same grits as the original except a 12k grit stropping belt. However there are aftermarket belts available for it from extra course to a leather belt... I'm thinking I need to try the extra course belt to attempt my full height convex before going and buying a 1x30....Thou I eventually will get a 1x30 for faster metal removal...I'm working on trying too thin out the bevel on a schrade kukri and it's taking forever on this thing with just the course belt.
 
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Tdhurl1103 said:
I have the WSKO and I like it a lot, but I'm not very good at it....yet. Anyway, I was interested in using it for some mods but I didn't know about the grinding belts. I'm a bit confused. Are these aftermarket or are you talking about the courser grit belts included with the device?
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KROEyLb.jpg
This is the blade grinding attachment
 
Ah, ok. Not confused anymore. I want to do some mods on a few knives and I was considering using the WS to do it. But, like I said above, I'm not that adept at using it as a sharpener so I don't think I want to get into stock removal at this point. I'm going to have to search for alternative methods because I really cant afford the belt grinder........yet.
 
Tdhurl1103 said:
Ah, ok. Not confused anymore. I want to do some mods on a few knives and I was considering using the WS to do it. But, like I said above, I'm not that adept at using it as a sharpener so I don't think I want to get into stock removal at this point. I'm going to have to search for alternative methods because I really cant afford the belt grinder........yet.
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What kinda mods are you thinking? Cause neither the wskt or the attachment have the power for any serious grinding tasks.
 
Tdhurl1103 said:
Well, none now, haha
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Lol it really depends what your wanting to do...it'll handle some grinding just don't plan on anything major... For example I tried doing a full height convex on a gerber big rock just as a trial before trying on any good knives. While it probably would eventually accomplish the task it is going to be at a real slow pace. It also heats the knife up alot since it takes off just a lil steel with each pass. I was also using the factory belts, it would probably go a lil faster using a much coarser aftermarket belt.

It's a great tool and the blade grinder attachment is allot easier to use imo then the regular Ken onion, and also provides better results. I could never whittle hair with the Ken onion alone, but with the blade grinder they'll whittle hair before I even hit the leather strop.
 
I understand. I was interested in removing the ramp from one of my Beckers and maybe adding in a choir in another blade. So, yeah, I think that might be too much.
 
Tdhurl1103 said:
I understand. I was interested in removing the ramp from one of my Beckers and maybe adding in a choir in another blade. So, yeah, I think that might be too much.
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I think you would be fine using it to add a choil, I was thinking about adding one to my bk2 and a guy on here said he used his work sharp to add one to his bk10. Just watch the blade temp and use a fresh course belt.

Removing the ramp could also probably be done slowly being careful not to over heat using the 90° on the blade grinding attachment. It would probably be difficult to get a flat grind on the spine using just just a work sharp thou. Since you can't adjust tension the belt would wanna curve around the spine as the ramp was ground down.
 
I've used a spindle sander and a disc sander to remove ramps.

I made a simple jig to prevent the removal of too much material. Using 220 grit, made a few passes then checked temp with finger. If too hot to touch, placed spine-side down on wet paper towels for 30~60 seconds. Takes about 10 minutes. When the jig wouldn't allow any more metal to be removed, I switched to using sandpaper taped down to a known flat surface and sanding spine-side down until the entire spine was flat.

Here's a BK10 being deramped on the spindle sander ...
20150130_161503_zpsypgyxj2w.jpg

20150130_163704_zpsfn6by45p.jpg
 
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