Wth

[Salem Straub]

Okay, here is my process.
1. Profile knife with 36 grit ceramic.
2. Start bevel with 60 grit ceramic.
3. Go to 120 grit ceramic until its thick as a dime on edge of blade.
4. Use 120 grit ceramic on flats.
5. Heat treat
6. Temper
7. Use A 60 gator grit on flats and bevel
8. Use 400 grit j flex on flats and bevel.
9. Use 600 grit on flats and bevel.
10. Hand sand with 600 grit on flats and bevel.
11. Hand sand with 1000 grit on flats and bevel.

OK, up to #8 you're ok. With #9, I assume you're still on the grinder with 600 grit? Jumping from a 600 grit belt finish to beginning to sand with 600 grit paper is likely not going to be very efficient for you unless you're doing a super nice clean job with the 600 belt and getting all coarser scratches out. I'd drop back to 400 to start hand sanding, or grind to 400 and start sanding at 220 or at 400 if you're doing a nice clean job on the grinder. Hand sanding can even out your bevels a bit too if they need it, which will work at 220 grit and to a limited extent with 400, but if you are beginning to hand sand at 600 you're just stuck with any little dips or warbles in the bevel that may have come from the grinder.
Hand sanding is not all that fun but it can be at least efficiently dealt with if you have good paper, use windex etc, have some practice and technique.

The other issue is this... you're doing all that work to hand sand up to 1000 grit and that should be a nice horizontal finish. But then, vertical scotchbrite on the grinder again?? Why? That's a coarser finish in a different direction, it will look terrible. If you want a scotchbrite finish, keep it vertical and stop with the grinder at about a clean 400 grit, then scotchbrite it. That evens out and satins your belt finish nicely. But if you were wanting a high polish like a mirror, you'd hand sand to like 1500 at least and better yet 2000 grit, then begin with green chrome on the buffer.

A 1000 grit hand sanded finish is a fine place to stop.

 

[Sharpe5097]

OK, up to #8 you're ok. With #9, I assume you're still on the grinder with 600 grit? Jumping from a 600 grit belt finish to beginning to sand with 600 grit paper is likely not going to be very efficient for you unless you're doing a super nice clean job with the 600 belt and getting all coarser scratches out. I'd drop back to 400 to start hand sanding, or grind to 400 and start sanding at 220 or at 400 if you're doing a nice clean job on the grinder. Hand sanding can even out your bevels a bit too if they need it, which will work at 220 grit and to a limited extent with 400, but if you are beginning to hand sand at 600 you're just stuck with any little dips or warbles in the bevel that may have come from the grinder.
Hand sanding is not all that fun but it can be at least efficiently dealt with if you have good paper, use windex etc, have some practice and technique.

The other issue is this... you're doing all that work to hand sand up to 1000 grit and that should be a nice horizontal finish. But then, vertical scotchbrite on the grinder again?? Why? That's a coarser finish in a different direction, it will look terrible. If you want a scotchbrite finish, keep it vertical and stop with the grinder at about a clean 400 grit, then scotchbrite it. That evens out and satins your belt finish nicely. But if you were wanting a high polish like a mirror, you'd hand sand to like 1500 at least and better yet 2000 grit, then begin with green chrome on the buffer.

A 1000 grit hand sanded finish is a fine place to stop.

Awesome. Thats the kind of detail im talking about. I can follow that. Thank you for ur time.