WW3 already here?

For the price, I'll take may GH WWIII and a Randall to be named later
smile.gif
.
 
WW3 was conceived partly from inspirations of such makers as Rob Simonich and Newt Livesay. Though at the time of our design, no such a khukuri existed. Still I'm willing to bet our WW3 will be stronger. Very few things can beat zone hardened 5160 in the tough department. None of the aforementioned smiths use that steel.

One thing I really like about Rob's work is that finger guard that sticks out of the cho. Not only is it a guard, but you can use it to take a "half sword" grip and effectively shorten the knife blade. This permits easier fine work use. I didn't mention this when the WW3 began because we were limited to a stock blade at the time. Maybe for a future project?


<img src = "http://www.simonichknives.com/srtkuk.jpg">
 
I think that the WW3 will be a force to be reckoned with. It is a real khurkri.
 
Tallwinged one: Thanks for posting that pic again. The handle will hopefully look very much like that very knife. Once I get to Nepal and show Lalit on of the finished products, I'm sure we'll start getting them in regularly - tweaked with such improvements as NOT being sent with ferrules that have to be knocked off by Robert the handle meister!

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Craig Gottlieb
Gurkha House
Blade Forums Sponsor
 
I sent this thread to Robert and here is what he had to say:

I'm not sure if Mr. Simonich is using "pins" as such on this knife.
(BTW, Rob is one of today's great makers in my opinion.) If you go to
his site and examine the picture of the Kukhri, the picture is not clear
on this (even when enlarged). The knife pictured next to it in the SRT
series clearly shows, however, what look like socket head (or torqs
head) cap screws (tightened with an allen or torqs wrench) when
enlarged. This is also pretty common on many tactical knives,
particularly production pieces.

I can do this if you wish on all of the knives past the prototype (or I
can re-do the handles on the prototype). It will require the purchase of
a step drill(s), cap screws, and knurled nuts from one of the knife
maker's supply houses. I don't want to be tapping threads into hardened
steel (even relatively soft stuff), you'll go broke supplying me with
taps. Another option which might give a similar effect (although I've
never seen it done) would be to use commercially available (so I don't
have to do any lathe work), hardened steel dowel pins. The problem with
this approach is that any epoxy that leaks out past the pin will be very
hard to clean up in the holes (messy, messy, messy). Also, unless I can
find some stainless pins in the right sizes, they'll rust eventually.
The socket head cap screws are a better idea. BTW, the handles will
still have to be epoxied, otherwise the tangs will rust because of the
trapped water under the scales.

What I had originally planned (based on our earlier discussions) was two
brass pins coming all the way through and shaped to the outside contours
of the handle. The prototype is presently set up this way. Rob has some
similar handles on the page I mentioned. But, as long as you pick up the
cost of the screws, nuts & drills, I'm just as happy using the screws.
They can be installed using "won't come loose until the second coming"
Locktite and they'll be just as strong. We'll need to decide on two
large ones or several small ones.

I'll try to find a local supplier for the screws (the knurled nuts are
usually the problem). If I can't find anything local, I'll try
Halpernand others. I'll advise you as soon as I know the cost.

Work can go on with removing the ferrules, but I won't make any more
handles until we decide on the above.

This is not a problem. I
always consider the design "fluid" until the prototype is accepted. It
goes without saying, however, that the delivery window expands, so we
should freeze the design at that point.

Yours in hacking and slashing,
--
Robert Couture
New Highlander Engineering
couture@nhigheng.com http://www.nhigheng.com
Click to expand...

Well, the above shows just how knowledgable and talented Robert is. I think he's reading these posts, so feel free to make comments here. However, I already responded that he's the expert in knife making - not me, and that he's to spare no expense in doing the job right, as we all want the best job (short of platinum screws) that money can buy for this baby. Am I right?

------------------
Craig Gottlieb
Gurkha House
Blade Forums Sponsor
 
I sent this thread to Robert and here is what he had to say:

I'm not sure if Mr. Simonich is using "pins" as such on this knife.
(BTW, Rob is one of today's great makers in my opinion.) If you go to
his site and examine the picture of the Kukhri, the picture is not clear
on this (even when enlarged). The knife pictured next to it in the SRT
series clearly shows, however, what look like socket head (or torqs
head) cap screws (tightened with an allen or torqs wrench) when
enlarged. This is also pretty common on many tactical knives,
particularly production pieces.

I can do this if you wish on all of the knives past the prototype (or I
can re-do the handles on the prototype). It will require the purchase of
a step drill(s), cap screws, and knurled nuts from one of the knife
maker's supply houses. I don't want to be tapping threads into hardened
steel (even relatively soft stuff), you'll go broke supplying me with
taps. Another option which might give a similar effect (although I've
never seen it done) would be to use commercially available (so I don't
have to do any lathe work), hardened steel dowel pins. The problem with
this approach is that any epoxy that leaks out past the pin will be very
hard to clean up in the holes (messy, messy, messy). Also, unless I can
find some stainless pins in the right sizes, they'll rust eventually.
The socket head cap screws are a better idea. BTW, the handles will
still have to be epoxied, otherwise the tangs will rust because of the
trapped water under the scales.

What I had originally planned (based on our earlier discussions) was two
brass pins coming all the way through and shaped to the outside contours
of the handle. The prototype is presently set up this way. Rob has some
similar handles on the page I mentioned. But, as long as you pick up the
cost of the screws, nuts & drills, I'm just as happy using the screws.
They can be installed using "won't come loose until the second coming"
Locktite and they'll be just as strong. We'll need to decide on two
large ones or several small ones.

I'll try to find a local supplier for the screws (the knurled nuts are
usually the problem). If I can't find anything local, I'll try
Halpernand others. I'll advise you as soon as I know the cost.

Work can go on with removing the ferrules, but I won't make any more
handles until we decide on the above.

This is not a problem. I
always consider the design "fluid" until the prototype is accepted. It
goes without saying, however, that the delivery window expands, so we
should freeze the design at that point.

Yours in hacking and slashing,
--
Robert Couture
New Highlander Engineering
Click to expand...

Well, the above shows just how knowledgable and talented Robert is. I think he's reading these posts, so feel free to make comments here. However, I already responded that he's the expert in knife making - not me, and that he's to spare no expense in doing the job right, as we all want the best job (short of platinum screws) that money can buy for this baby. Am I right?

------------------
Craig Gottlieb
Gurkha House
Blade Forums Sponsor
 
Personally, I have no problem whatsoever with Robert's original plan for two brass pins contoured to the scales. I had not even considered anything more complicated.
 
I'm quite comfortable with whatever method Robert thinks will be best...I'm fully prepared to defer to his expertise. The brass pins sound fine to me.

Jim
 
Like Berk and Ugly Jim, I'm happy with the brass pins and epoxy. Based on what Robert said above, the only difference the specialized hardware will make is in the visual appearance of the handle.

I'm a believer in the KISS theory.

Blackdog


------------------
Visit the GH Photo Gallerys at:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=104694
 
I'm also in favor of the theory simple is better. Keep it with 2 brass brass pins and epoxy.

Besides this wont slow down production when trying to change things in mid stream will most likely have some sort of a further delay. Not that I'm complaining mind you I'm just starting to drool a tad.

How about putting some pictures of the prototype up when possible??? That should stop my drooling for a second or two
smile.gif
smile.gif
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Rob Simonich just posted an interesting point about his design. He put the finger guard there because he realized, without the rings on a traditional khukuri handle, it is that much easier for your hand to slide down.

Since we don't have this finger guard, can the handle maker give it a test to see if it's a problem?
 
Goat, that really is an interesting and very important point -- certainly one I had never considered. If the user's hand should slide down onto the blade it could cause some serious grief.
 
Hello all, Robert the handle maker here.

Thanks for the inputs. If I get the prototype blade back from the finisher today (I hope), I should have pictures by the first part of next week. Craig has asked me to make the prototype with the screws. The handles are already modified. The only thing I need is the allen nuts, which are on back order.

There may be at least one advantage to the screws. The handles can be finished completely before assembly, precluding any possible scarring of the blued finish. I still intend to epoxy for a complete seal. Let's see what they look like.

tallwingedgoat & Steven F,

I will definitely test the "grippyness" of the handles thoroughly, (although hopefuly not by repelling boarders in early Y2K). The handles are shaped more smoothly than traditional ones, but are actually somewhat more contoured to the hand (I hope) than the original. The lack of a guard has been a source of concern, but not yet a large one. Let's see how they come out.

Thanks, Bob Couture.
 
I don't understand what the benefit is of the lanyard hole. Is it to attach the handle to your wrist?
 
The lanyard loop is so you can take a length of para cord and tie the knife to you. Thatway if for some reason you drop the knife you do not loose it. I've tied down all kinds of gear from canteens to knives using para cord. You would be suprised at what you can loose when out in the field.
 
Old Engineer: Welcome to the forum! Finally the Handle Meister speaketh
smile.gif


Guys, Robert is truly the genius behind the handle here, and I'm glad he's found some breathing room to log in here.

Robert: I echo everybody that we leave it up to you. I consider myself a WWIII customer at this point too, and can't wait to get my greedy paws on my very own.

To the forumites: I must apologize if I have been rather distracted lately, but I've been so swamped with Christmas orders, Marya and I have been up until about 11:00pm every night! I'm pretty much sold out of Panawals, WWs, and deluxe WWs. The Blems are either gone or spoken for.

In my conversation with Lalit last night, he said he'd do his best to get the Christmas order here in time for delivery. I've got my fingers crossed!



------------------
Craig Gottlieb
Gurkha House
Blade Forums Sponsor
 
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