WWII Machete: Before and After

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May 30, 2009
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I figured I'd start another thread to show the progress of my 1945 machete restoration, and to use it as a base for questions I may have. I snapped a few "before" shots, so I'll post them up now and then update later with the "after" shots.

A few clarification questions I had though, if anyone can help me out. The original grips are 7/16" on each side so I'm getting 1/2" micarta slabs. I plan on using those hidden bolt corby screws where you grind off the slot when finished.

Corby screws

1. Whats the chronological order of cutting, fastening and sanding the slabs? I figured I'd trace the rough shape of the old grips and then cut the micarta and then fasten the slabs to the tang. They're going to get thinner as I sand, so how do I know how that works with the screws?

2. Lets say the overall width of the handle will be roughly 1" (slab/tang/slab). What size corby (length) do I need?

3. Lastly, (for now) do I use an epoxy as an added measure under the slabs?

Rusted!
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I sanded the Machete with 4" disks on my drill. 40, 80 and 200 grit. If I can find a higher grit adhesive disk I might hit it one more time. Otherwise I think its sanded as far as I'll go besides fine tuning/polishing the edge.

Next up is new slabs and we're ready to storm some beaches. Or back yards...

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This Micarta is going to be the grips
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Adam, I sent you a email with a rough outline of how I do handles, but I sent it before I saw that you are using hidded bolts. The hidden Corby bolts are the most time consuming type of fastener to use because they are countersunk with a 90deg bottom instead of a taper side. The best way to do them is to have a special drill that drills the center holes and the larger countersunk hole in the same step (basically a step drill). You can usually get them from whoever you get the bolts from. For a hard use handle, I would suggest the stainless ones. Now there are a couple of other special things that you will need to do if you want the handle to be very secure that is hard to explain and you might be better off just calling me. Take a look at this thread, it basically explains it (I hope the pictures are still there!):

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=593583&highlight=cobalt

Let me know if you have any questions, have fun!
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:D
 
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Adam, I sent you a email with a rough outline of how I do handles, but I sent it before I saw that you are using hidded bolts. The hidden Corby bolts are the most time consuming type of fastener to use because they are countersunk with a 90deg bottom instead of a taper side. The best way to do them is to have a special drill that drills the center holes and the larger countersunk hole in the same step (basically a step drill). You can usually get them from whoever you get the bolts from. For a hard use handle, I would suggest the stainless ones. Now there are a couple of other special things that you will need to do if you want the handle to be very secure that is hard to explain and you might be better off just calling me. Take a look at this thread, it basically explains it:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=593583&highlight=cobalt

Let me know if you have any questions, have fun!
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:D

You are just too damn helpful. :D No... thank you again dude. First class! I saw the step drill on the site I was looking at. I'll probably get one as well. I was also considering using those torx fasteners that go in from each side and screw into a center shaft but I think the flush ground corbys will match the existing fasteners best. Stainless Corby... got it. Do the majority of your other steps still apply?

Ya know what... I'll get started and then ask more questions. Let me go check out that link.
 
This is really cool. I love historic knives. My uncle has a german stiletto that killed an american soldier in WWII before my uncle killed the german and took the knife. Its extremely interesting to see historic knives that were actually used rather than ones that just got preserved. I hope that this project of yours turns out well and i'd love to the see the finished results. Hopefully one day my uncle will loan me that stiletto and i can do a similar project.
 
This is really cool. I love historic knives. My uncle has a german stiletto that killed an american soldier in WWII before my uncle killed the german and took the knife. Its extremely interesting to see historic knives that were actually used rather than ones that just got preserved. I hope that this project of yours turns out well and i'd love to the see the finished results. Hopefully one day my uncle will loan me that stiletto and i can do a similar project.

Thanks man. I'm glad I peaked your interest. After talking to randucci, I'm thinking this will be slightly more difficult than I imagined, but I'm sure I'll come out on top after some trial and error. I really want to try the hidden bolts like on the existing slabs, before I give up and use torx head fasteners.
 
When I first saw the thread title I thought "don't do it", but after seeing the condition it is in, you might as well....
 
Well here's a question now. I assumed the rear hole was open and free of a pin for a lanyard. Seeing the photo above and examining the counter sunk hole in mine, it appears I need a fourth pin in there. So what is that tang extension for? Keep the machete from flying out of your hand?
 
I collect and use machetes, but I wouldn't spend too much time or money on one unless it was INFI. Here is one of my favorite short "machetes".
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I collect and use machetes, but I wouldn't spend too much time or money on one unless it was INFI.

Well its not really about the time, the money or the INFI on this one...

besides...70 years later and this one is still swinging :D

I added a few progress shots above.
 
Awesome! Glad to see u didn't go crazy with a sander removing all of that character :)

I will be following ur progress with great anticipation. Good luck!
 
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