Y'all asked for it: BT6 Stripped to the bone! :)

I hope jerry offers a satin version of this or this might be the first blade I send to be striped. Gorgeous results
 
Beautiful!

I'm guessing that you didn't take the scales off, and put in through a surface grinder. Which means that the flats of the blade just looked that good under the coating. Lucky you. :thumbup:

My strippers never look that good. :grumpy::rolleyes:
 
Wow! Easily one of the nicest stripper jobs I've seen! Great work buddy :cool: [emoji106]

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What a perfect job you did, it looks like a custom knife. The contrast of the grind line looks beautiful and the blade shape stands out so much more.
Thanks for posting your photos :thumbup:
 
I got a white one incoming, I am doing the exact same thing. Thank you for posting, now i know it will look sweet.
 
How did you do the etch? The last stripper I did (oooo... that sounds kinda bad :eek: ), I cleaned the logo with paint stripper (lost too much sleep, can't think of the chemical now!), then let pcb etchant sit on it for about 1.5 hours (full strength, replenishing about every half-hour). It barely etched it deeper, and now, after working so long to get the decarb off, it's almost gone.
 
Beautiful! Looks 100x better like that I think. Now I'm considering stripping my Mystery Bag Battle Saw
 
dogboye said:
How did you do the etch? The last stripper I did (oooo... that sounds kinda bad :eek: ), I cleaned the logo with paint stripper (lost too much sleep, can't think of the chemical now!), then let pcb etchant sit on it for about 1.5 hours (full strength, replenishing about every half-hour). It barely etched it deeper, and now, after working so long to get the decarb off, it's almost gone.
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I don't know how the OP did his but in my personal experience, using a q-tip that is wet with etchant to scrub off the blackened steel between applications gets me the deepest cut.
 
Thanks everyone, I am very happy with how it turned out. :)

Teyler79 said:
That just looks soo much better than the black coating!
Did you do this by hand?
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For the most part, but spine and talon holes well away from the edge get a little low speed powered attention to save time and achieve the desired result.

SpyderPhreak said:
Awesome!!! :thumbup: :cool: Looks like it was surface ground under the coating? Or are my eyes deceiving me?
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Not quite, but the dimples are very small and shallow with some light striations mixed in, so the sanding made it look almost smooth.

Iamthejellyfish said:
Gorgeous, I was thinking about going for a double cut look. Did you use a grinder? Or stripper and sandpaper?


Sincerely,
Ego sum Chrysaora
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Grinders scratch a little too deep and move too fast for my tastes so I don't mess with them. Lots of different abrasive materials, small hand tools & elbow grease applied in the right order as needed seem to work well. Years of trial and error can teach a guy some valuable experience too.



resinguy said:
Beautiful!

I'm guessing that you didn't take the scales off, and put in through a surface grinder. Which means that the flats of the blade just looked that good under the coating. Lucky you. :thumbup:

My strippers never look that good. :grumpy::rolleyes:
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It isn't as smooth as it looks, or even BIG finish smooth, but it is pretty nice for that CF look. :)

dogboye said:
How did you do the etch? The last stripper I did (oooo... that sounds kinda bad :eek: ), I cleaned the logo with paint stripper (lost too much sleep, can't think of the chemical now!), then let pcb etchant sit on it for about 1.5 hours (full strength, replenishing about every half-hour). It barely etched it deeper, and now, after working so long to get the decarb off, it's almost gone.
Click to expand...

Wash with dish soap & water, then something evaporative like alcohol or ether, then pool etchant on logo for as long as necessary to get the desired result. Some blades just don't want to etch as deep as others for reasons which are beyond me, but multiple applications eventually get the job done.
 
What Brand Etchant are you using or what solution. I too have had some issues not getting the results I want. This looks nice. The solution you use to etch INFO works well. Mind sharing the solution brand please?

AZTimT said:
Thanks everyone, I am very happy with how it turned out. :)



For the most part, but spine and talon holes well away from the edge get a little low speed powered attention to save time and achieve the desired result.


Not quite, but the dimples are very small and shallow with some light striations mixed in, so the sanding made it look almost smooth.


Grinders scratch a little too deep and move too fast for my tastes so I don't mess with them. Lots of different abrasive materials, small hand tools & elbow grease applied in the right order as needed seem to work well. Years of trial and error can teach a guy some valuable experience too.





It isn't as smooth as it looks, or even BIG finish smooth, but it is pretty nice for that CF look. :)



Wash with dish soap & water, then something evaporative like alcohol or ether, then pool etchant on logo for as long as necessary to get the desired result. Some blades just don't want to etch as deep as others for reasons which are beyond me, but multiple applications eventually get the job done.
Click to expand...
 
I just did my chophouse 2 days ago stripped and etched. I used battery out of my truck and salt water. Clean with dawn dish soap then rubbing alcohol and then the salt and battery. The syco logo came out really clean I was very surprised it etched so clean
 
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