Yangdu the Katunje and the Robbers

moparsbob said:
The Charter Arms Bulldog 5-shot in .44 Special is worth consideration. The current models are decently made and finished, and while the trigger will never be mistaken for an S&W, after some break-in it is acceptable. The .44 Special cartridge is comparable to the .45 ACP in most loadings (we'll leave the Elmer Keith .44 Spl loadings out of this discussion). And since these can be had for well under $400, it's inexpensive enough that it can be left in a vehicle without worrying too much about theft. I have one and I've been happy with it for what it is. I really like the .44 Special cartridge - I'd love to have an S&W 696, which is the L-frame 5-shot .44 Special that S&W made for a short time, but they are bringing close to $1000 these days, if you can find one.
Click to expand...

Agreed... S&W as gone crazy with their revolver prices lately. Their classic series are off the charts... they don't even pin and recess them like the classics but they still charge like they do. The Charter Arms Bulldogs have always been great revolvers. I think Rossi is part or was part of Charter arms at one point. I would take a Charter Arms over a Taurus all day long. Ruger also makes great revolvers. Ruger revolvers are probably the strongest built revolvers made today. The S&W side plate construction cant compare to Rugers solid construction. Rugers wont have the elegant trigger of the S&W. but they can be made to closely feel like an S&W with the right springs and polishing.
 
I don't think that there has ever been a relationship between Rossi and Charter Arms. Charter Arms is a US company and their guns are made right here in the USA.
 
moparsbob said:
I don't think that there has ever been a relationship between Rossi and Charter Arms. Charter Arms is a US company and their guns are made right here in the USA.
Click to expand...


Thanks for clarifying that... They were actually in direct competition now that I remember correctly.
 
I quite like the Charter Arms I have fired in the past. As you say, the trigger is a bit grittier but not horrible. I don't think I want to go up to a .44spl as most of those are still built on L sized frames because they just use the same frame as for the .44mag. I wouldn't mind a CA undercover in .38 as it is a touch wider and longer than the J frame Smith or the Colt detective/cobra (not the king cobra). With the CA, the smallest barrel is 2" instead of 1.75" But close enough that if I can find one at a good price (any price is going to be good compared to the SW or Colt) then I probably will go ahead and get one :) Rossi/Taurus/Braziltech whatever their name is now doesn't make a small .38 that is lightweight anymore the snubbie for them is almost twice as heavy as the other ones I am looking at though it is only slightly wider. If I can find one with wood grip panels instead of the rubber baby buggy bumpers they put on those things now that double the size of the grips. LOL.
 
I know a guy that knows a guy that can take care of them rubber panels.

I don't think the Bulldog or the Bulldog Pug are as large as the L frames. I had one many years ago, kick myself today for ever parting with it, it was a good one back in the days when it was hit or miss with Charter Arms. Now days I think they are consistently much better.
 
The bulldog isn't huge, but it's definitely not a pocket gun, unless ya have a special pocket for canned hams and such :)
Keep your eyes peeled for a used airweight 442-barring that, one of my friends has a ruger lcr he has had zero problems with and it's very light. I prefer the smith trigger, me. The sp101 is also very nicely done in most specimens, but that's reaaaaaally not a pocket gun-mine weighs almost as much as a 1911.
 
Thanks JW, I have looked at that airweight. Nice little gun and pretty smooth shooting, the only thing that makes me less than enthusiastic is that they are DAO. I really like being able to shoot single action if I choose to. I know they shroud the hammer to make it easier to get out of the pocket in a hurry, but even with a relatively light trigger the double action still usually has such a long take up that I just feel off shooting them. I guess if I got one and shot it enough I could probably get used to it but, it would take a while. Sent hubby out to check out the local gun stores and pawn shops looking for a used cute tiny revolver. So far nothing that has decent lockup and priced where I am looking, but I will find one soon. And in the meanwhile I am just carrying my 1911 around the house. The larger slide means I can get my whole hand on it so it is ok racking it. Slightly funny looking with a 1911 in a shoulder holster over my bathrobe, But I don't think I will be answering the doorbell anyways, And at least I can take my time and find the right revolver.
 
Being born 100 years too late, I'm a thumb cocker myself. If it has a hammer I'll yank it back. Even good DA revolvers I cock em.
I like my wifes 638 cause it's shrouded but I can still cock the thing, it's not near as good as a exposed hammer and you gotta be mighty carefull letting er down if you don't shoot but it kind of the best of both worlds.
 
I've shot a S&W 642 and 442. Didn't care for them. The 642 was better, but that was mainly because it had been shot more. The heavy trigger pull and gutter sights aren't for me. I prefer semi-autos. I really like my SIG P6. Not entirely certain what I think of the new version just released by SIG. They changed the barrel and slide length, and changed the shape of the trigger guard. I like my 1911 too, but I'd like it more if the serrated trigger didn't give me a blister that it then pops.

And Shav, I do envy how you can open carry at home that way. I get lots of visitors where I am, and if I started answering the door too blatantly armed the stories would spread.
 
Sounds like those guns needed a trigger job. I have had revolvers that made semi-autos cry because their trigger could never be so crisp. As for a serrated trigger... sounds like time to change that out for one that you enjoy shooting, a gunsmith could fix either one of those problems up for you quite quickly. Or if you are the do it yourself kind, the trigger change out is really pretty straight forward. Though I would encourage you to not do a trigger smoothing job yourself unless you know what you are doing. Changing the sear angle over either axis can prove dangerous.
 
Shavru said:
Sounds like those guns needed a trigger job. I have had revolvers that made semi-autos cry because their trigger could never be so crisp. As for a serrated trigger... sounds like time to change that out for one that you enjoy shooting, a gunsmith could fix either one of those problems up for you quite quickly. Or if you are the do it yourself kind, the trigger change out is really pretty straight forward. Though I would encourage you to not do a trigger smoothing job yourself unless you know what you are doing. Changing the sear angle over either axis can prove dangerous.
Click to expand...

I suppose I could talk to my gunsmith friend to see what he would charge for a trigger job for a 642. I know he does them, he carries a 642 with a trigger job he did himself. It's not a huge priority though, it's my mother's 642 and she's okay with the trigger. She plays piano, organ, and harpsichord. Between those three instruments she has excellent finger strength and control.

As for the serrated trigger, I've talked to two gunsmiths who are friends and willing to give me a good rate, and it would cost a pretty fair amount of money. Both smiths have suggested taking some small files and smoothing the trigger face and then polishing it. I actually have a few small files in the apartment. I've been using the big ones for my knife-making, but the roommates that were ornamental blacksmiths have let me use their files at will. However the serrations don't become an issue until I've put a pretty good number of rounds downrange. I can do fifty from the 1911 in one session without issue. Last time I went shooting I spent most of my trigger time with my SIG. I almost use the 1911 as a training tool. I've discovered that shooting it improves my accuracy with other guns because it teaches me good trigger control with its very good single-action pull. But with all that, I don't manage to make it to the range often, so it's not the most pressing thing on my mind.
 
LoL Bawanna, you say that like there is a story that should be told :D

Scara, I am talking about changing out just the trigger not the entire trigger group. That is purely a drop in thing if you get just a trigger that isn't serrrated and doesn't include any tuning or fitting or anything. Now if you get a trigger group containing hammer, sear, disconnector, hammer spring and tactical sear spring then you would want to have it fitted. But the trigger replacement you should be able to do yourself easily for about $35. But if it isn't a priority then hey I can understand that :D
 
If you were wanting to smooth out the serrations it would be easiest to take the trigger out anyhow.

Shavru once again nailed it, easy swap if you just want the trigger.

I always got stories.
 
Strange. I was quoted fairly high figures (by my standards) by two smiths who are also friends to have it changed.
 
The trigger on my 442 started out pretty good and only got better with dry firing-which is the secret to learning a DA trigger, btw...when you live fire your feedback about pulling the gun offline is masked by recoil.
I can usually hit my 4x6" ringer plate 4 for 5 @50 after all the dry firing.
 
The triggers are smooth on the 442 and 642 I've shot. It's the weight I don't care for. They feel like my SIG P6 before I removed the extra heavy mainspring needed for the submachine gun ammo the German police wanted to shoot through it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top