Yay or nay? Refinished bolsters on NF #77 barlow

[arizcowboy]

I like the polished look to go with stag covers. Maybe satin on a different material cover.

 

[Mort Canard]

Hard to decide. They both look great. The brushed finish adds an elegance to the look of the knife. Just make sure that you don't end up like a bunch of the old barlows I have seen with the script on the bolster half way polished off.

 

[MercyfulfateXX]

I did a couple of mine with some maroon 3m scotch brite. I did small circles and it looks fine but yours (op) looks better. do you just go in a straight line or in a circular pattern?

maybe an instructional video is in order.:thumbup:

 

[Bladenoobie1]

I did a couple of mine with some maroon 3m scotch brite. I did small circles and it looks fine but yours (op) looks better. do you just go in a straight line or in a circular pattern?

maybe an instructional video is in order.:thumbup:

Straight line. Consistency is important for bringing out good results. I do large gradual sweeps from the very edge of the bolster to the opposite edge. The eraser isn't wide enough to cover the full length of the bolster so I have to work in different segments, but still keeping even straight motions. Depending on the shape of the bolster you made need to use more pressure or a different shaped medium for the backing. On a #85 that I did, the eraser wouldn't evenly cover the entire surface of the bolster, so I used a neopreme backing with more give that would "grab" around the bolster. I'll post pictures depicting what I described above in a bit.

 

[MercyfulfateXX]

very nice bladenoobie1. thank you Sir, I did mine freehand and although it looks ok it doesn't look even and factory like if you will like yours.

do you think the scotchbrite is too aggressive?

 

[Bladenoobie1]

I believe red scotchbrite is even coarser than green, but I'm not entirely sure. Although scotchbrite is aggressive, it shouldn't matter as long as you are using consistent movements. I would stick to straight motions. Circular movements can give a scratchy appearance. I tend to like to do pulling motions moving the bolster towards me as it gives me lots of consistency. Prior to refinishing the bolsters I tape the scales and the blades so that I can nice full movements without worrying about scratching the knife.

Try using an eraser + sandpaper. You have more control as opposed to a thick piece of scotchbrite. Any grit from 400-1000 should give good results. Use silicon carbide sandpaper though, the black/grey ones. A easy way to improve the consistency of the movements is to make sure the groove in the bolster or the conjunction between the scale and bolster is parallel with the edge of the eraser. If you notice you are off, you can make slight corrections. Small deviations from a straight movement won't effect the overall look.

 

[draggat]

Definitely polished. I carry my knives in a custom stitched knife pocket in my pants so they don't get banged up.... really just a 2 1/2" stitch on the right side of my pants pocket, which holds the knife in the same position as a pocket clip, yet separated from keys, etc. I like my knives shiny.

 

[Bladenoobie1]

Definitely polished. I carry my knives in a custom stitched knife pocket in my pants so they don't get banged up.... really just a 2 1/2" stitch on the right side of my pants pocket, which holds the knife in the same position as a pocket clip, yet separated from keys, etc. I like my knives shiny.

I use a small felt sheath for all my slipjoints. I find that even with polished bolsters, especially with nickle silver scratches still easily find themselves on the bolsters and its hard to maintain a nice look. I like things on the far end of extremes--either extremely clean, or extremely worn. Nothing in between with a dirty hazy look. I with GEC offered more knives with steel liners and bolsters with more of a "working finish" with a coarser satin grind on the blade as well as brushed as opposed to polished bolsters.