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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Yes
- Thread starter HWF
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2012
- Messages
- 668
Sheesh, these knives look amazing. I'm blown away every time I see new ones. I think Fiddleback is going to be getting an order from me soon.
HWF
Gold Member
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2012
- Messages
- 3,020
Thank you guys so much.
I have a question though. I live in south FL and have never experimented, personally, with 01 over time. I am not abusive to my gear but I don't baby it. Any tricks to keep the surface rust off at the end of every day? Sometimes more like every two hours? This plagues me. I always keep it dry when I can, but I can't just devote my time in the woods to keeping a tool rust free, it's not my number one priority (maybe that priority should change?). I understand that I should always keep it oiled and take care of it, but sometimes other tasks take priority (I've fallen into a canal several times recently, don't ask, or ask
). Like I said, I don't abuse but I use very hard. Any tips? Thanks!
I have a question though. I live in south FL and have never experimented, personally, with 01 over time. I am not abusive to my gear but I don't baby it. Any tricks to keep the surface rust off at the end of every day? Sometimes more like every two hours? This plagues me. I always keep it dry when I can, but I can't just devote my time in the woods to keeping a tool rust free, it's not my number one priority (maybe that priority should change?). I understand that I should always keep it oiled and take care of it, but sometimes other tasks take priority (I've fallen into a canal several times recently, don't ask, or ask
). Like I said, I don't abuse but I use very hard. Any tips? Thanks!
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2013
- Messages
- 852
Others are certainly more versed in this...but here's my thoughts:
You seem to be doing some of the necessary steps already. Build up a good patina as a first line of defense...which will come with time but you could also force one with a vinegar treatment. Since you cut alot of food I would think a very light coat of vegetable oil before you go out for the day (or after cleanings/sharpenings) will help...
A buddy of mine has a carbon blade in 'God knows what' that just rusts when you look at it. For field treatment, he keeps a small silk rag that he puts veg oil on in the pouch on his sheath. EVERY TIME he pulls that knife out and uses it he gives it a swipe or two with the rag and re-sheaths.
What kind of sheath are you using? un-treated (or poorly treated) leather can occasionally speed up rust. Perhaps working with a custom guy for a kydex set up will help for a long term solution?
If you fall into a canal, safety is step one. Once out, gear check is step 2, did you lose anything?. step 3: CLEAN YOUR KNIFE. Oil, dry, Oil, dry, Oil...you are trying to force all the water out of the very small parts of the knife. Don't put it back in a wet sheath either. Wrap it up in a dry towel or handkerchief from a friend.
But ultimately..you live in florida. It's never not 110% humidity down there. It's going to be an ongoing battle.
I'd also keep a keen lookout for the rare stainless that Andy put's out.
You seem to be doing some of the necessary steps already. Build up a good patina as a first line of defense...which will come with time but you could also force one with a vinegar treatment. Since you cut alot of food I would think a very light coat of vegetable oil before you go out for the day (or after cleanings/sharpenings) will help...
A buddy of mine has a carbon blade in 'God knows what' that just rusts when you look at it. For field treatment, he keeps a small silk rag that he puts veg oil on in the pouch on his sheath. EVERY TIME he pulls that knife out and uses it he gives it a swipe or two with the rag and re-sheaths.
What kind of sheath are you using? un-treated (or poorly treated) leather can occasionally speed up rust. Perhaps working with a custom guy for a kydex set up will help for a long term solution?
If you fall into a canal, safety is step one. Once out, gear check is step 2, did you lose anything?. step 3: CLEAN YOUR KNIFE. Oil, dry, Oil, dry, Oil...you are trying to force all the water out of the very small parts of the knife. Don't put it back in a wet sheath either. Wrap it up in a dry towel or handkerchief from a friend.
But ultimately..you live in florida. It's never not 110% humidity down there. It's going to be an ongoing battle.
I'd also keep a keen lookout for the rare stainless that Andy put's out.
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2005
- Messages
- 1,331
Several years ago I made a knife for one of my grandsons who lived just outside Ocala,Fl. The knife was 01 and I had done a forced vinegar patina on the blade. He lost the knife out in a cow pasture where it stayed for about 18 months until his dad came across it while laying out new seed. Had some bad looking surface rust spots, but a quick shot on the belt sander with a scotchbrite belt brought it just about all the way back to new. Once you get a good patina, whether it's forced or natural, that blade will stay good with a little oil. On my outside work bench, there is a small 01 knife with cocabola handles that has lived outside for 12yrs. now. Gets rain, snow and everyday humidity and no oil. Has developed a nice brown rust look that matches my period style black powder rifles. Don't do that! Just shows how good 01 really can be, even with no care. Not sure if it's been said, but don't store your knife in a sheath. Even the best leather can wick moisture to the steel.
Hi HWF,
Many, many years ago I came upon Sentry Solutions Tuf-Cloth, Marine Tuff-Cloth, and Tuf-Glide liquid to help mitigate rust. They have lived up to their claims of keeping rust at bay and served me well.
Then, several years back Ballistol caught my attention and allowed me to move away from Sentry Solutions products because of the diverse usefulness of the product and environmental friendliness.
Most recently I have tried FrogLube paste and liquid products to lube and protect. I am well pleased with the results. Their literature states that all of these products are biodegradable and non-hazardous in every way.
So in closing, Ballistol and FrogLube are what I am currently using and I like the results. Simply stated, they are user friendly products that handle all of my needs. Couldn't be better!
Take care.
Mark
Many, many years ago I came upon Sentry Solutions Tuf-Cloth, Marine Tuff-Cloth, and Tuf-Glide liquid to help mitigate rust. They have lived up to their claims of keeping rust at bay and served me well.
Then, several years back Ballistol caught my attention and allowed me to move away from Sentry Solutions products because of the diverse usefulness of the product and environmental friendliness.
Most recently I have tried FrogLube paste and liquid products to lube and protect. I am well pleased with the results. Their literature states that all of these products are biodegradable and non-hazardous in every way.
So in closing, Ballistol and FrogLube are what I am currently using and I like the results. Simply stated, they are user friendly products that handle all of my needs. Couldn't be better!
Take care.
Mark
- Joined
- May 9, 2001
- Messages
- 316
I've been using Renaissance Wax on my Fiddleback 01 Bushcrafter that I use in the kitchen and to cut food at my meals. I put it on after the first time that I cut meat with it. A patina had started in just a few minutes. That patina has not advanced since I put the wax on. After the meal I just rinse it under the tap and wipe it dry with a paper towel.
I realize that sharpening the edge has removed the wax, but I've checked it several times, with a 60X magnifier and have not seen any rust or patina forming. I'd guess that the touchups on the ceramic stick and the strop knocks off any that may form. I keep it stored in the sheath. Right next to it, also stored in the sheath, is my Fiddleback machete which has received similar treatment with the Ten Wax. And while I don't use the machete in food prep, it receives similar care (or lack of care). Usually that's just a wipe off on my pants, if it's damp, and back it goes, into the sheath (where it's stored).
I've been putting another coat of the wax on the knife every month or so, and "so far so good."
I've used such things as lemon oil, Vegetable oil, Tuf Cloth, Ballistol, MPro 7, and A.G. Russel's Rustfree on my knives. So far I'm favoring the Ren Wax.
I realize that sharpening the edge has removed the wax, but I've checked it several times, with a 60X magnifier and have not seen any rust or patina forming. I'd guess that the touchups on the ceramic stick and the strop knocks off any that may form. I keep it stored in the sheath. Right next to it, also stored in the sheath, is my Fiddleback machete which has received similar treatment with the Ten Wax. And while I don't use the machete in food prep, it receives similar care (or lack of care). Usually that's just a wipe off on my pants, if it's damp, and back it goes, into the sheath (where it's stored).
I've been putting another coat of the wax on the knife every month or so, and "so far so good."
I've used such things as lemon oil, Vegetable oil, Tuf Cloth, Ballistol, MPro 7, and A.G. Russel's Rustfree on my knives. So far I'm favoring the Ren Wax.
Hi Lou,
Yes thank you for your post. It reminded me that I have also used this in the past with great results. Renaissance Wax is another excellent option.
Mark
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2012
- Messages
- 2,921
Fortunately, in regards to dealing with rust, I live in a very dry climate. My knife care consists of using some Flitz to remove any unwanted patina (can't decide yet if I'm going to let it develop naturally or keep it clean) and then applying mineral oil to the blade and micarta. On some of my folders that won't be used for food I've used Rem-DriLube on the pivots and blades with great success.
HWF
Gold Member
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2012
- Messages
- 3,020
oh good. is that a recluse? now i can have you compare and contrast the recluse to the kephart. thanks for thinking of me Hugh!
seriously though....looks great man. enjoy.
Thanks Todd!
They are both pretty sweet. I'll get back to you after I take the recluse out.
HWF
Gold Member
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2012
- Messages
- 3,020
Thanks man! I was surprised to see them waiting for me! Hopefully Monday will come quick for you.
