Yet another budget minded quenchant

JBS TOOLMAKER

JBS TOOLMAKER

Joined
May 4, 2009
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I was at a local Gun and knife show recently and a guy had some nice knives with hamon. Ofcourse I had to pick his brain:) When we started talking shop I ask what kind of oil he used for quench he replied " 5 gallon bucket of hydraulic oil at room temperature. I did'nt get into a debate over it because I could'nt argue with what I saw. Ofcourse I don't carry a RC. tester around, but they looked great.The blades were 1095 and he said he uses the same quench on 154 cm and BG42. Anybody tried this ?
 
I did try some thin 32 weight hydraulic oil for 1095 and if your blades are thin enough and hot enough it will work but I finally found a supplier for real quench oil and recommend it fully.
 
If it's fast enough for 1095 it's probably too fast for air hardening steels, if it's slow enough for air hardening steels then it's too slow for 1095. Both of the stainless steels listed can be oil quenched, but, afik, neither calls for an oil as fast as that used for 1095. Beyond artistic value, I would not trust any knives by the maker.
 
when heat treating my knives i use a mix of motor oil and transmission fluid or used canola oil. sometimes i heat the oil if its cold but lately its been at room temp. i have good luck with either one and my blades (1075) rockwell around 63rc to 65rc. i did 1 blade made from 1095 and it turned out ok but i need to have it rockwell tested but its probably in the 60's too.
 
If you quenched 1095 in the mix you mention above, I would bet you have a blade of hard pearlite, and very little martensite.
 
i tried water and there was no cracking. water is cheaper than hydraulic fluid.
 
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