(Yet another) Byrd Cara Cara review

I want to tell you all, I really appreciate your posts and comments. What we're getting now is a balance of opinion and feedback from owners that's hopefully useful to those looking to buy one of these, perhaps Spyderco as well.

Of course when I started this thread I couldn't see any way my Cara Cara is typical. Working with the knife more I've come to like some things about it quite a bit, I've even been carrying it some and think it safe to do so now. The spring and bronze washer .... well yes they could be a problem for the user, but neither is something that should be a big deal for Spyderco's manufacturing and QC to address.

Again the steel in this knife seems like a real boon for knife users, I need to test it more but it seems to clearly outclass typical AUS-8A, comparing well with VG-10 and showing less tendency to chip. Spyderco also included one of it's best ergonomic features, that sort of blade-handle finger choil, and I like the way the blade is ground and shaped.

I don't normally think much about using a folder for self-defense, but have to admit the Cara Cara strikes me a decent choice for that. I've done some very hard and brisk spine whack tests with it and the lockup is very solid .... when doing this test I put a thin strip of scotch tape over the lockbar-blade junction which will either tear or pull loose if there's any significant lock movement, and none could be detected at all. I'm still going to cut the Boye dent deeper for extra safety, but overall I think the Cara Cara would be a good choice for self-defense.

As for weight, the box for the FRN calls it a lightweight but it's still got some good heft. With clip mounted for tip up carry, point of balance when open is about 1/8" in front of the lockbar pivot pin. Anyway I think it's good Spyderco offers this knife in FRN, I imagine the G10 is much nicer but some will probably like the way the FRN carries better.

I hope to get around to reprofiling the edge soon and plan to take it down to 10-12 deg./side. I'll be better able to compare it to my other knives and this should give us a much better idea of what this blade steel is capable of.

Voting for both Pro Knife and Pro Knife Choice candidates today, BTW. :)
 
Thanx much for the input and revues.

We always appreciate all of the input we can get.

sal
 
I have an FRN Cara Cara and like everything about it so far. except for the hollow grind. Wish it were flat ground.

However, this is my first modern folder. The blade does stay closed, but seems to open very easily. I guess I am a bit concerned that, if it opens so easily now, will it be dangerous after a few years' use.

I am not sure how to evaluate whether I need a replacement spring, or if my knife is just smoother than most?

By the way, I didn't purchase mine because it was so cheap. I purchased it because it had the right combination of features that I couldn't find in any other knife. My requirements were, 1) under 4 oz., 2) at least 3.5" blade, 4) premium steel, 5) drop point blade, not too weak in the point area. 6) Finger choil.

Frankly, the Cara Cara was the only knife that had all those features that I could find. If the Paramilitary had a 3.5" blade, I would have purchased one, instead of the Cara Cara.

Don Clark
 
I have a stainless Cara Cara that I have had apart to check intimately and it was flawless throughout.

It has been my experience that a washer like the one pictured is all it takes to mess up the action of even the best knife. I doubt your spring needed much if any attention. Most of the apparent weakness you were seeing was an outward symptom of the condition of the pivot thanks to that washer.

STR
 
For what it's worth, I had similar easy-opening-in-the-pocket issues with an FRN Cara Cara. Tightening the bolt around which the blade revolves helped a bit--but it's still kind of loose.
 
STR said:
It has been my experience that a washer like the one pictured is all it takes to mess up the action of even the best knife. I doubt your spring needed much if any attention. Most of the apparent weakness you were seeing was an outward symptom of the condition of the pivot thanks to that washer.
Click to expand...
I'm beginning to think that's a big part of it, though the soft spring still concerns me some. I was noticing today that the knife closes much more like you expect a folder to now, the roughness of that funky washer has probably smoothed out with use.

Wanted to ask you, STR .... Texas Knife Supply says its spring stock is "work hardened 302 stainless." I noticed after rebending the factory spring it seemed like it might have work hardened a bit as well, explaining the improvement I see now. Is this a common thing with springs and spring steel? I know you have to be very careful work hardening a piece, not something I like to do normally, but perhaps just a couple rebendings is all these springs need to stiffen them up some.

Return of the J.D. said:
For what it's worth, I had similar easy-opening-in-the-pocket issues with an FRN Cara Cara. Tightening the bolt around which the blade revolves helped a bit--but it's still kind of loose.
Click to expand...
On mine a slightly looser pivot lets the blade close more easily, which I think (hope) makes it safer to carry. I also gave the pivot a tiny drop of FP10 and that helped too.
 
This reminded me I wanted to deepen the Boye dent. Before and after photos:

cara-boyedent-before.jpg


cara-boyedent-after.jpg


This is a good mod and for me much more comfortable to open using the inside of the thumb knuckle joint like I do. Thanks to the finger choil design this is an easy and safe lockback to close one-handed, BTW.
 
I have used those springs from Texas knifemaker supply and they get harder with each bend when its in the same place eventually breaking. I'm sure this is the case with any of the springs and most steels yes. You can bend it, adjust it and trust it to work pretty well once you get it where you want it. The trick is to map out the bends make them and stick with it without having to retweak them a lot or you may as well start over unless you are making your bends on it before hardening but the stuff I have made can still work harden even then. I would imagine some cook their springs with other back springs and what not all to the same hardness. You can still bend it after h/t though and many guys do that.

You can snag a new spring from an old China made $2 knife at a local store most likely just as easy as those from TKMS and it will probably be very close to the same as the one you had in your Byrd if its a similar sized knife you zero in on when you buy it.

I asked now famous slip joint maker Bill Ruple once years back what he preferred for hardness on his springs and he told me most of the back springs and lock springs he does are hardened to 45 Rc. He makes his springs out of the same metal the blades are made of on each knife according to what he said to me then. I assume that is probably the case with most manufacturers and makers also but you know what assuming can get you on occasion. Some may take their spring hardness higher some lower but its got to be hovering around that I'm sure. At this hardness a spring is still soft enough to drill it with a cobalt drill so it is supposed to be softer. Harder will equal more brittleness for most steels and titanium.

STR
 
That's really interesting, STR. Not having a lot of experience with knife springs I just assumed they'd be made from the kind of hard spring steel you find in guns and a lot of other devices. Pretty clever, too, taking advantage of work hardening like that.

BTW better be careful, customers might suspect you're fixing their high end knives with parts scrounged from $2 Chinese knock-offs. ;)
 
Customers are always informed of something of that nature in advance anytime I use a part that is not an original factory one when I repair an older knife or collectible newer one if I even touch it. I have fixed them that way but only with user knives and only with the owners consent and usually on Chinese knives only or Taiwan made ones too on an occasion. I think most that know me know I would not mistreat any high end knife in such a way.

What is ironic is that most USA made knives are put together with China made screws. I've been told by the wholesalers of the various screws we use in knife making that very few if any of that kind of hardware is manufactured at all in the USA anymore regardless of the application but have never verified this. Wouldn't know how to begin to but it would not surprise me to be true. Where I grew up in and around the Pittsburg PA, and Wheeling WV, area steel insustry has really imploded and affected the economy so the business they used to provide had to go somewhere I guess.

STR
 
Of course I was kidding, STR .... the smiley, yes?

Personally I think the global economy is fantastic. There's all kinds of stuff, some inexpensive outdoor gear coming to mind right now, that's made in China and is just fantastic quality .... and except for things noted the Cara Cara is nicely crafted, the blade especially. Also in another recent post I used a Taiwanese made Ka-Bar, the hardware, fit and overall quality are very impressive. The little Canon camera I'm using which I just love is made in Malaysia. IMO nothing makes for peaceful relations like free trade.
 
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