- Joined
- Mar 20, 2016
- Messages
- 14,053
First and foremost, please pardon my ignorance and questions which I am sure are repetitious in nature. I am actually pretty adept at researching this subforum and the forums in general to look for the topics which I am seeking before I create mundane threads! I also search and read up on the W.E. user forums. So with all that aid, here we go:
I recently bought a WE100P with extras (upgraded micro adjust arms, angle cube and 800/1000 stones + 3.5/5 micron strops) and since then I have also added some more (50/80 stones + 1200/1600 ceramics) so with the exception of the current base vice and the 8" arms, I have quite a proficient system at my disposal. I also have my practice folder in D2 steel (Chinese D2) which actually has a good reputation for the price point, it's not a PITA FFG so it's easily positioned (I use the top holes and blade tip at B on the ruler) and secured without much fussing to get rid of the sharpie marks.
Now setting aside all the learning curve and this operator's own moronic idiocies, but the time that I think I have now dialed in my system, I may very well have contributed to my predicament! Pardon the verbosity but with lack of pictures, I'm trying to present a pictorial in the reader's mind:
First off, I realized after the initial learning and reading that since the left side vice is stationary and the right side the mobile one, a minor adjustment of 0.5* had to be accounted for. To verify this with the folder in position, just using the angle cub on the right side had a 1/2 degree advantage to the left side (again knife positioned securely in the vice, upside down with the cube on the primary grind). Then I noticed that the right side reveal was about 2 degrees more obtuse than the left side with the knife in the vice as I was trying to reprofile at 17* per side (so I had it 17* & 19* when I was hitting the Sharpie worth a damn!). For rerofiling the 100/200 was just putrid hence why I ordered the 50/80 which then cut through the D2 with quick ease. Thereafter I detected the burr as I progressed to 100/200 where I also tried for burr before the progression to 400/600. I have also come familiar enough with the sound that the stones make with the steel so that I intuitively know where the rough spots are, all being equal.
After all the above, here is my predicament:
I can't get the darn thing to be razor edge sharp! I'm going for toothy as opposed to mirrored edge so when I looked at the edge with a 30x lighted jeweler's loupe, I have noticed that my edge is chippy! That is why I am unable to get it cut thin paper and so forth. Is it possible that I have just damaged that edge with that steel on the knife being my practice knife? If so, should I go to a lower or higher re-profiling angle and start all fresh?
Thank you for your time.
I recently bought a WE100P with extras (upgraded micro adjust arms, angle cube and 800/1000 stones + 3.5/5 micron strops) and since then I have also added some more (50/80 stones + 1200/1600 ceramics) so with the exception of the current base vice and the 8" arms, I have quite a proficient system at my disposal. I also have my practice folder in D2 steel (Chinese D2) which actually has a good reputation for the price point, it's not a PITA FFG so it's easily positioned (I use the top holes and blade tip at B on the ruler) and secured without much fussing to get rid of the sharpie marks.
Now setting aside all the learning curve and this operator's own moronic idiocies, but the time that I think I have now dialed in my system, I may very well have contributed to my predicament! Pardon the verbosity but with lack of pictures, I'm trying to present a pictorial in the reader's mind:
First off, I realized after the initial learning and reading that since the left side vice is stationary and the right side the mobile one, a minor adjustment of 0.5* had to be accounted for. To verify this with the folder in position, just using the angle cub on the right side had a 1/2 degree advantage to the left side (again knife positioned securely in the vice, upside down with the cube on the primary grind). Then I noticed that the right side reveal was about 2 degrees more obtuse than the left side with the knife in the vice as I was trying to reprofile at 17* per side (so I had it 17* & 19* when I was hitting the Sharpie worth a damn!). For rerofiling the 100/200 was just putrid hence why I ordered the 50/80 which then cut through the D2 with quick ease. Thereafter I detected the burr as I progressed to 100/200 where I also tried for burr before the progression to 400/600. I have also come familiar enough with the sound that the stones make with the steel so that I intuitively know where the rough spots are, all being equal.
After all the above, here is my predicament:
I can't get the darn thing to be razor edge sharp! I'm going for toothy as opposed to mirrored edge so when I looked at the edge with a 30x lighted jeweler's loupe, I have noticed that my edge is chippy! That is why I am unable to get it cut thin paper and so forth. Is it possible that I have just damaged that edge with that steel on the knife being my practice knife? If so, should I go to a lower or higher re-profiling angle and start all fresh?
Thank you for your time.
