you guys that get your blades freakishly sharp

For a razor sharp edge I use water stones and a final pass on hard wood smeared with car body polish.
 
Roger999 said:
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I use a belt sander to sharpen my knives, it works on recurved blades aswell since the belt flexes and bends so I can use the sides of the belt. If I'm sharpening a super dull blade, I will go with 120, 320, 600, 1200grit belts and then go to a leather belt loaded with .5micron CrO.
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Where did you get this chart as it is incorrect.
 
+1 on the paper wheels. You can find a benchgrinder for 30 bucks and the wheel system from 15 and up. I got mine from a guy at the local fleamarket for 15 and it works GREAT.
 
be careful of the cheap wheels. i bought a set thats made from white paper. they were out of round, the hole was drilled at an angle which made the wheel wobble and seem softer than the good wheels.
 
sharpmaker.
i have used my buddies lansky then cardboard wheel then leather strop. i was very impressed
 
For most beveled edges, I use the standard brown and fine Sharpmaker rods, usually followed by stropping on newspaper. I want to pick up the UF rods before too long.

I have a very small DMT stone that I try to use for reprofiling, but I need to step up.
For some time, I've been curious about the various clamp-n-angle systems, but I am reluctant to commit funds for an EdgePro or even a Lansky. To try these gadgets out, I just won a similar Gatco kit on eBay for $16.

For convex edges, I sharpen with 2000grit auto wet/dry paper on a mousepad, follewed by stropping on leather stapled to 2x4s with the Bark River compound.
 
Alarion said:
Remember also that a razor sharp edge is not always the best solution. I usually sharpen my knives to a 300 or 500 grit and leave it at that, and they cut really well, even plastics and fiborus materials.
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I used to do that, but eventually I figured that at least in the kitchen and all light cutting, polished edges are much better, and last longer even if they feel less aggressive compared to the rough ones.
For now the last step for me is 0.25mic diamond spray. Although looks like there is a room for improvement with 0.1 and 0.05 mic abrasives.
 
That looks like a chart from Chad Ward's book - An Edge in the Kitchen. Excellent book BTW.
I'm also curious what's incorrect there.
 
Well I was under the impression, though perhaps mistakenly, that the Spyderco Ultra-fine ceramic had a particle size of 3 microns. Could be wrong on that though.
 
It's less about the product and more about how well you can use it. The edgepro however does produce the "prettiest" bevels, and makes a great general purpose tool from rebeveling to final ultra-freaky sharp polish. Just don't think you need anything more expensive than a good quality ultra-fine pocket stone to get the edge sharp. Put a nice wide bevel on with a coarse something, and use an ultrafine stone (diamond or ceramic, even arkansas stones work good here) to put a microbevel on it. And if it makes you feel better you can use a strop too :)
 
An 11" tri-benckstone and an M-204 to mantain.
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For field use an EZE Lap takes care of my sharpening needs.
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IMHO That will leave not so fine edge and coarse bevels. At least that's what I see in the microscope :)
 
Id go with the paper wheel set up that Richard has already posted. I have a nice set and can get anything you throw at me probably sharper then youve ever felt it.
-Barry-
 
2sparky said:
Id go with the paper wheel set up that Richard has already posted. I have a nice set and can get anything you throw at me probably sharper then youve ever felt it.
-Barry-
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i didn't see a price for the paper wheel what does one of those cost?

i've got a smith's diamond combination sharpener but i'd really like to be able to get my knife wicked sharp
 
folderfan2093 said:
i didn't see a price for the paper wheel what does one of those cost?

i've got a smith's diamond combination sharpener but i'd really like to be able to get my knife wicked sharp
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I paid $45 for my paper wheel set (the one Richard uses) and about $40 for the 6" Ryobi bench grinder at Home Depot to mount them on. Excellent results in extremely little time, but my sub micron finished edges are sharper. To most people, though, the tree topping edges I got off the wheels the first time I used them are sharper than any other knife that they've used. Plus, those paper wheels will rebevel an edge while sharpening, which saves tons of time compared to using benchstones to put on a thinner angle. What used to take me a long time on stones now takes a minute or so on the wheels.


Mike
 
I use a DMT xx coarse to bring it to a 12-15 deg. zero edge, then convex 400-2000 grit, then put a slight microbevel with a ultrafine ceramic.
 
EdgeMaker Pro and sometimes Mouse Pad and sand paper. I also use the Belt sander on real dull knives and I am going to try the paper wheels soon as well.
 
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