You guys who sharpen with stones, talk to me.

Plumberdv said:
Thanks for all the input guys. I'm going to order one of those (in the picture) and start practicing. I already have the Spyderco Sharpmaker and the diamond sticks for it are coming, so maybe I'll have it covered.
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This should give you good edges Dave . Then don't forget some sort of magnifier around 3-5X to examine your edges checking for burrs . (Those little shiny looking dots/areas under bright light .) A good leather strop helps to remove these and finish the edge (with green compound applied) . Use trailing edge strokes on this . Keep us informed on your progress and bring this back up as you work along . Good luck . DM
 
Buck_110 said:
Sharpening is what one is capable of doing, not spending.
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I suppose that if I looked around the hills here, I could come up with a rock that I could use as a fairly good sharpening stone like they did in the old days, but I don't mind spending a little to get the proper tools for the job.;)
 
Yes, the products you mention will do it (stropping) . But as for cost, in 1998 I bought a brick of the 3 rouges to polish knives on a buffer wheels and use on strops . So, here 10yrs. later I still have 7/8 of each brick and I think they cost then 15$ each . Looks like I've been stropping with it for about 20cents per year . I would consider that good value . Then the leather, we purchase full cow hides for sheath making and I cut a piece or two for a decent size strop so that was residual . A quality piece of leather (3X12 or so) glued to a hard wood backing makes a decent strop . This cost maybe 4$ and will last forever . Heck, if Plumber needs a strop I'll send a piece to him for free . DM
 
Plumberdv said:
I guess I better run down to Walmart and stock up on 110's to practice on and a case of Bandaids!
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You have learned well grasshopper, keep your fingers clear.
Seriously, I use a tri-hone, diamond sticks, ceramic stick and loose stones for targeting a problem area. It took me a while to get the hang of holding the knife at the correct angle. Remember one thing though, speed is your enemy, if you try to rush it, it will take you longer to fix a screw-up than it would have to just slow down and take your time.
 
David Martin said:
Yes, the products you mention will do it (stropping) . But as for cost, in 1998 I bought a brick of the 3 rouges to polish knives on a buffer wheels and use on strops . So, here 10yrs. later I still have 7/8 of each brick and I think they cost then 15$ each . Looks like I've been stropping with it for about 20cents per year . I would consider that good value . Then the leather, we purchase full cow hides for sheath making and I cut a piece or two for a decent size strop so that was residual . A quality piece of leather (3X12 or so) glued to a hard wood backing makes a decent strop . This cost maybe 4$ and will last forever . Heck, if Plumber needs a strop I'll send a piece to him for free . DM
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Dang, since there's a saddle shop a mile from the house, I got access to all the leather I could ever need. He's always got scrap pieces laying around.
 
I would differ with some of the advice above. Don't bother practicing with the old kitchen knife. It may be crappy steel that won't take an edge anyhow. Practice on some 420HC. A 110 perhaps! 420HC is relatively easy to get results...good or bad.
 
Mitch, Yes, a saddle shop is a good place to find a quality piece of leather for a decent strop and it will most likely be cheap . Tell the proprietor what you want it for so he'll know what type to get for you . Using it right takes the edge up a good noch and helps to nullify any slight errors made during sharpening . DM
 
I freehand sharpen on a combination od diamond stones, waterstones and a strop. If I could only have one stone it would be a DMT Duo diamond Coarse/Fine. The next one I would add is a 6000 grit water srone,

It took a lor of practice and frustration before the light came on. The effort was worth it however. I can get any knife as sharp as I want it in a very short time.

A couple of tips that really helped me out:

Make sure your stones are flat, really flat. This is usually not an issue with diamond stones. waterstones can be flattened with a coarse diamond stone quickly.

A magnifing glass helps you to see what is going on. A 10X loupe is even better.

Mark your edge with a sharpie. This helps you to see where your edge is coming in contact with the stone. It also helps to make sure you are sharpening all the way to the edge.

Sharpen one side of the edge until you get a burr that can be felt on the opposide side of the edge. Sharpen the other edge until the burr appears on the other side. Work both sides of the edge with progressivly finer stones. This is the tricky part.

With some practice you will be able to freehand sharpen better and quicker than you ever thought possoble. Don't get frustrated and give up during you early efforts.

Greg
 
I've never cut myself with the blade while sharpening a knife. What I have done is rubbed my thumb tip raw on a Japanese water stone while sharpening a leather paring knife (for feathering) at a very low angle. For Buck knives the angle is steeper so that hasn't been a problem, either.
 
David Martin said:
Mitch, Yes, a saddle shop is a good place to find a quality piece of leather for a decent strop and it will most likely be cheap . Tell the proprietor what you want it for so he'll know what type to get for you . Using it right takes the edge up a good noch and helps to nullify any slight errors made during sharpening . DM
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If you can get some horsehide. Many of the quality strops for straight razors used it and it is a VERY dense smooth leather.
 
Yes, those are called 'horse butt' strops and are of the highest quality because of the silica content . Still, a decent piece of quality, smooth, cow leather, vegetable tanned not chromium tanned with slurry will empart a good edge on the blade . The other will do better but at what cost . I've seen those offered for sale at 50$ . DM
 
I made a jig that holds the Norton size stones 2 1/2"X 11 1/2"X 1/2" at a 15 degree angle off of vertical. The thing looks like a giant sharpmaker. I added turnbuckles so I could change the slope. I point my edge at the ground and "slice" the stone. I count strokes to keep the edge centered. I swing the jig 180 degrees to sharpen the other side. I clean the stones off the jig and use them dry. The thing will hold any kind of stone including DMT.
 
Plumberdv said:
I just ordered the pictured set. Let the games begin! Next will be a strop.
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LOL,you sound like a man on a mission Dave!A mission we should ALL be on,after all what good is a dull knife?I believe this is a thread that should always be part of the Buck forum.We spend a lot of time discussing various types of steel,it seems like perfecting sharpening skills and methods should be as much or more important.I'm no expert when it comes to knife sharpening and a thread like this is really helpful to improving ones skill by exchanging methods and information.:D
 
Guy, I've seen photos of your jig in the Maintenance forum . Interesting .
Horse, I think your correct . But you know me, I like talking sharpening . Yet, many of us here use our Buck knives ---a lot . DM
 
I gave up bench stones of any kind, years and years ago.

Like P-Dave...I will give back a ruined blade.

Went to the lansky clamp system. Just never mastered keeping the same angle from one side to the other. :(
 
Dave, I don't think that pictures of my jig have ever been posted. If I ever figure out how to post pictures, I will post a few.
 
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