You know what, I need a really tough knife.

[Screwdriver]

I'd suggest a Manix 2 G-10.

And I know this is the Spydie forum, but I saw a vid of a guy opening cans of beans with a ZT 0550. I have Gen 3 and it is a beast that carries well.

 

[bowman78]

I'd suggest a Manix 2 G-10.

And I know this is the Spydie forum, but I saw a vid of a guy opening cans of beans with a ZT 0550. I have Gen 3 and it is a beast that carries well.

First, I'd like to say the Manix 2 XL is absolutely astonishing. The knife IMHO goes beyond any standards you'd have for the knife, the Blade is perfect length, the shape of the blade is beautiful (Leaf, and the hollow grind, both my preferred blade styles.), the steel is perfect, (I'd prefer an S90V Blade in the G10 handles, which I'll have soon enough.) the handle jimping is amazing and provides the extra feel of control and grip, the Finger choil allows for you to choke up comfortably , the lock is beyond anything I'd ever want and the position to disengage the lock is exactly where i want it, easy to access not in the way of the blade. It just has EVERYTHING in my opinion. So if you like all those things as well as a beefier, thicker, longer blade, the Manix 2 XL is for you, the non XL version is smaller for more of an EDC type knife. (With the standard Manix 2 they make a version with an S110V blade, so you can have an S110V G10 Manix 2. That's exactly what I want, unfortunately they only make the S110V blade for the standard Manix 2. S90V works for me as well.)

Second, this is more of a personal preference thing, these 2 knives are very similar but still different. It really comes down to how much you want to spend, for a bit extra length (I do like a blade closer to 4", the ZT 0560 has similar dimensions to a Manix 2 XL), and the KVT ball bearing opening system. One other difference is the Elmax in the 0560 vs the S35VN in the 0550. I'm not too knowledgeable on Elmax but I know S35VN is a Stainless and they are both powdered steel, so you can't go wrong with either.

As for opening a tin can, I can't think of a knife that wouldn't be able to do that. I don't see how that proves anything.

 

[Gizler00]

My vote is for the Gayle Bradley. I've been using mine to cut everything and anything. Including wet stuff and fruits/veggies. No sign of rust or patina yet. And all I do is wipe it on my jeans or a dish towel when done.

 

[bowman78]

My vote is for the Gayle Bradley. I've been using mine to cut everything and anything. Including wet stuff and fruits/veggies. No sign of rust or patina yet. And all I do is wipe it on my jeans or a dish towel when done.

If I were looking for something tough that wasn't stainless steel, I'd be buying a Spyderco Tuff in CPM 3V (My favorite steel of all time). M4 steel is a competition grade steel, meaning its not meant to be dirty, or wet. Using it in dirtier work than cutting vegetables requires you to take good care of the blade, especially near corrosive materials.. Also Powdered steel is the only kind of steel I'll ever use in a blade. M4 is a high speed steel, not CPM (Not to be confused with the company that produces it, Crucible creates both kinds of steel.)

Conclusion?
I'd rather have something meant for dirty work (CPM 3V has more chromium, and a more simple composition due to it being a powder steel.) than something meant for a clean environment (M4 has many kinds of elements inside its complex composition, and less chromium, not all the elements in M4 are beneficial.), like a competition.

 

[Gizler00]

If I were looking for something tough that wasn't stainless steel, I'd be buying a Spyderco Tuff in CPM 3V (My favorite steel of all time). M4 steel is a competition grade steel, meaning its not meant to be dirty, or wet. Using it in dirtier work than cutting vegetables requires you to take good care of the blade, especially near corrosive materials.. Also Powdered steel is the only kind of steel I'll ever use in a blade. M4 is a high speed steel, not CPM (Not to be confused with the company that produces it, Crucible creates both kinds of steel.)



Conclusion?
I'd rather have something meant for dirty work (CPM 3V has more chromium, and a more simple composition due to it being a powder steel.) than something meant for a clean environment (M4 has many kinds of elements inside its complex composition, and less chromium, not all the elements in M4 are beneficial.), like a competition.

I am an automotive instructor. So it comes in contact with alot more than than just fruit and veggies. I was using that as an example for staining and rusting on the blade. I have also used 1095 which is non stainless in many environments that are harmful to the blade and corrosive materials with no issues.

Yes you have to take care of the m4 a little more but not as much as you would think.

 

[RamZar]

Depending on blade length (2.55"-3.75") any of these:

• Techno
• Battlestation
• Southard
• LionSpy
• Tuff
• Vallotton

 

[RamZar]

There are others to consider but the ones above have thick blades and strong tips.

 

[Custom]

If I were looking for something tough that wasn't stainless steel, I'd be buying a Spyderco Tuff in CPM 3V (My favorite steel of all time). M4 steel is a competition grade steel, meaning its not meant to be dirty, or wet. Using it in dirtier work than cutting vegetables requires you to take good care of the blade, especially near corrosive materials.. Also Powdered steel is the only kind of steel I'll ever use in a blade. M4 is a high speed steel, not CPM (Not to be confused with the company that produces it, Crucible creates both kinds of steel.)

Conclusion?
I'd rather have something meant for dirty work (CPM 3V has more chromium, and a more simple composition due to it being a powder steel.) than something meant for a clean environment (M4 has many kinds of elements inside its complex composition, and less chromium, not all the elements in M4 are beneficial.), like a competition.

M4 will hold an edge longer than 3V and from my experience it is just as tough if not tougher. Also its not the end of the world if a patina develops or if the blade develops spots of rust. The blade isn't going to melt into itself

 

[stabman]

M4 will hold an edge longer than 3V and from my experience it is just as tough if not tougher.

M4 ain't as tough...and sure ain't tougher.


It will hold an edge longer though.

 

[bowman78]

M4 will hold an edge longer than 3V and from my experience it is just as tough if not tougher. Also its not the end of the world if a patina develops or if the blade develops spots of rust. The blade isn't going to melt into itself

M4 isn't a powdered steel. Meaning the creators don't know exactly what's in it. They know some of the important things but not all. There could easily be some elements inside the M4 in 1 blade and be different in others. The point is not all M4 blades are the same. Their are some elements in which they don't know is in a certain M4 that can have a negative effect on the steel. You can't really say which is better because with M4 it varies... A lot.

That being said. I'll take my lovely 3V, thank you very much.

 

[CJZ]

Tuff, K2, Military

 

[NoFair]

M4 isn't a powdered steel. Meaning the creators don't know exactly what's in it. They know some of the important things but not all. There could easily be some elements inside the M4 in 1 blade and be different in others. The point is not all M4 blades are the same. Their are some elements in which they don't know is in a certain M4 that can have a negative effect on the steel. You can't really say which is better because with M4 it varies... A lot.

That being said. I'll take my lovely 3V, thank you very much.

Spyderco uses CPM M4

 

[hank_rearden]

thanks for the replies gents. since i lost my zdp endura anyway, i thinks it's time for a gayle bradley. among the non-spydey FB neck knives at the bay, i'm looking at an enzo necker 70 and a survival mora 510.