Your actual use vs review talking points

Uses include minor indoor cutting like cardboard and zip ties. Outdoor use is more demanding. This is primarily landscaping. Fairly demanding use.

Likes include a blade steel / edge combination that ca hold a good working edge for a day or two, before a touch up. The knife has to be corrosion resistant, since I am often working less than a mile from the ocean. A large comfortable handle is a benefit. Like clips as I carry iwb. Durability is im0

Dislikes incude assisted openers and flippers. Slick metal handles are hard to use with sweaty hands. Expensive knives are hard to replace.
 
Use:

I’m an office wiener with a do-it-yourself blue-collar upbringing. I’m also an urban outdoorsman making a few trips of varying length to state/national parks or wilderness/desert areas each year. I don’t hunt anymore, but enjoy fresh & saltwater fishing from time to time.

-Main use: A fashion accessory that sees light to moderate use. I’m in an office 50 hours a week. What do you expect? Bagels and burritos need slicing! Light food prep, open a package, strip a wire, cut rope or a zip tie, etc.

-Purpose use blades: These are my sporting and heavier use work knives. I guess they’re beaters to a degree. If they get lost, broken, or dorked up, I’ll be able to live with it. These knives will sometimes make it into my daily rotation too (they’re good knives!).

High Value Points

-Centered blades.

-No blade play with a reasonable action.

-Hotspot free, whether it’s from a stupid clip design or a scale angle that’s too abrupt.

-Pocket-ability. I like to use my front right pocket for more than one thing, and that entails getting my hand past the knife!

-Slice-ability. A combination of grind, thickness, and breadth. Thick is fun to flip, slicey is a joy to use.

-Weight. If a knife is 4 oz or less, I’m very interested ; over 5 oz, chances are I’ll pass. There are exceptions. For instance, my ZT 0801 at 5.9 oz feels strangely light in hand, while my Massdrop Cruz at 4.3 oz feels strangely heavy.

-Aesthetics. Highly subjective, but obvious.

-Value. This might mean a discontinuation sale or a nice score on the Exchange. Occasionally a knife is so well put together it’s truly a “bargain” at retail. Face it: nothing in this hobby is more gratifying than a rock-star deal on a knife you’ve been lusting for!


Could Care Less

-Milled, sculpted or artsy pocket clips. I just want it to work as intended dammit!

-Fall-shut action. Reasonable action, yes. I don’t need a guillotine on the way back.

-Bearings vs Washers. If it works well, I’m happy.

-Deployment method. Flipper v thumbstud v hole v nail nick; if it works well, I’m happy.

-Lock type. If it works well, I’m happy.

-Lockbar inserts.
-Early lockup.
-Mild lockstick.
 
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My use: Weekend warrior in city metro life and typical home owner duties . Weeday office Cary.

Value: ease of lock opening and closing one handed. Pocket Cary with clip comfort with deep carry for city carrying (California). It's why I like axis/ballbearing lock and frame/luner locks.

Don't value; lock strenth and self defense specific features. (Aren't all knifes by nature of being a knife aid in ability to deter or cause bodily harm?)
 
Uses - is completely situational for me.
EDC? Usually opening packages.
Gentleman's knife? opening packages, domestic emergencies like hanging thread, freeing caught hair, anything chivalrous.
Fishing? Generally filleting but also trimming baits or cutting line.
Hunting? Probably needs to be the most versatile for me. Cleaning and skinning game, caping often requires a different knife, preparing a fire, food prep, butchering, quartering, cutting up my dinner...

Value points - generally starts with if I find the knife has aesthetic appeal. Which for me immediately disqualifies anything "tactical", menacing, (karambits need not apply) ostentatious, over-built, or under-thought-out. Designing a knife based only on being unique, is a poor excuse to make a knife. The idea of a knife without a point I find rather absurd. Have seem some lately that seem to be modeled on a sharpened brick.

The skill in manufacture is high on my list. No slack for a budget priced knife. The quality level may have a sliding point of reference, but junk is junk at any price. I love finding a high value / price gem.
Size - the bigger, the "worser". Not a fan of big knives of any sort. If I need a machete, I'll pick one up at it will be to hack at brush. Likewise, there is such a thing as too small. I have very large hands. 5" overall is about the minimum of useful size for me, though I do have a couple of SAKs and a fixed blade that are below that. They are the rare exception. Much more a novelty than effective size. Generally 6-9" OAL is my limit for any knife.
Weight- Not a fan of overbuilt. Pocket bricks are not in my wheelhouse.
Blade shape - Drop point is probably my favorite, Clip point, Trailing point, Spear Point, Dagger, Fillet, Double edge, Wharncliffe, sheepsfoot all work. I favor thinner blades over thick stock, though there is always time and place.
Steel- have to credit / blame BF for my becoming more aware and more fickle in my steel preferences. My brain doesn't work in terms of "favorites" but it does work in terms of what it does not like.
My standards have definitely been raised since hanging out in BF. Thanks guys! (I think)
Blade finish, I like both kinds, Satin and Mirror. Coated blades, do nothing for me.
Sheaths - have a huge affect on my purchases. If the sheath is junk, I figure the knife is too. I prefer leather. Take Kydex only when I have to. Just doesn't have the warmth or character of a well crafted leather sheath.
I prefer flippers over thumb studs, Thumb studs over thumb holes, but do not have a preference of flippers to nail nick.

What I don't care much about are things like how something is being executed. But that I mean, I really don't care what kind of pivot system did the maker use. Does it work? Expensive bearings on a flipper that won't flip won't impress. BP washers used and the flip action is beautiful, works for me. I love the idea of a front flipper, but have yet to find a real workable version of a front flipper. The ones I have or tried are too awkward to open.
I am less concerned about the type of lock a knife may have, than how reliable it is. Engage every time? If not, it is questionable at least, if not an outright failure. Far more important than requiring it to be Liner, Frame, Friction, Plunge, or Ring lock. Is the lock well designed? Have seen some that are actually quite difficult to disengage. :thumbsdown: I also don't have a preference for grind type, other than if it works for the design of the knife. Flat, Hollow, Convex, Scandi, Sword, all have their place. None are the best choice for all blade and edge geometries. I would at least highly question a traditional folder with a thick blade and a scandi grind. It might work, but you'd have to show me.

All that being said, the knives that are at the top of my list are:
Bird & Trout knives
Hunting knives
Caping knives
Gentleman's knives
Modern traditionals
Traditional
Puukkos
Boot knives
Daggers

Of course a lot of that could change tomorrow.
 
Format:

1. My use

Could be anything, so I try to acquire knives in different formats.

2. My high value points

Value for the money. I view knives as a commodity and tool with a shelf life. If it lasts forever I am not using it. If I’m not using it I probably don’t need it.

3. What I care less about
I suppose it’s not what I care less about as it is what I do care about. Craftsmanship and honesty is important to me.
 
....legal to carry in Germany and our laws limit us to either two hand opening locking knives or one hand opening slipjoints when it comes to folders....

Acording to your statement, seems like the Spyderco UK Pen Knife could be a good candidate. Seems like it would be legal as per you requirements. One hand opening, clip and non-locking.

Now back to the topic:

1. My use
Workdays, office carry. Food prep mostly.
Out hiking, food prep, wood work (very little)
At the shop, pretty much nothing. I am not going to ruin a nice blade doing stuff that could be done with an utility knife with disposable blades.
Climbing, emergency rope work (serrations desired)

2. My high value points
One hand opening is almost mandatory.
Blade shape and grind. I want a belly and I want full flat ground (or high saber)
Serrations are nice for my climbing knives, otherwise plain edges are preffered.
Handle material, I don't like wood much, I cracked the scales of Boker Skelibur and I don't want it to happen again. Micarta, G10 or any plastic is fine. Smooth slippery-when-wet is a no-no, so polished carbon fiber or stainless is not for me.

3. What I care less about
Lock strength. I don't stab stuff arround. All of them do for me, even non-locking (such as Spyderco UK Pen Knife)
Steel. I don't want crappy steels but pretty much any modern steel from a reputable manufacturer is plenty for my uses. Saddly I use my knives very little, so I don't wear them much. Besides, ANY steel is going to loose agains the ceramic plates while eating at the office, so I touch them up with a ceramic steel once in a while anyways.
 
1. My use
- I don't really need a knife to open mail, boxes, etc. Although I do from time to time do those things, I figure that if I carry a dedicated knife (not including my MT or briefcase toolbag with box cutter), that it should be capable of handling larger tasks which I really do need a knife for. Some things that I want it to do when I don't have the proper tools avilable and have to do from time to time: cut sheetrock, cut fiberglass insulation (in a pinch), cut 2-3" styrofoam, cut nylon straps, cut twine, cut thick cardboard for extended periods, and for the heck of it, debark or notch wood and cut branches (rare).

2. My high value points

-Of course, a sharp, reliable blade which can hold an edge for medium duty tasks throughout the day. I've been suprised how long the 1095 on an Opinel lasted from debarking a few cut branches and whittling wood (I was just wasting time for an hour). I like thick handles with hammer grip prioritized or at least neutral (since I only really use a saber grip or palm reinforced grip for light duty tasks, handle shape isn't as important for me in those grips). Thick handles, especially when countoured for the hammer grip, spreads out the force to my hand when I have to cut through a lot of things with noticable resistance. I also like when the blade's cutting edge is closer to the handle, which also reduces the torque on my wrist when making those harder cuts. Last, if I carry a dedicated knife, I like ergonomics allowing for a firm and comfortable Filipino grip, and has a knife butt that can pound things... not that I will ever do these last two things, but it's what I'm familiar with and I like the option if I'm going to dedicate a large part of my pocket to a knife that doesn't have other tools... although I guess I should mention that one handed opening and closing is a big plus, at least as openable as a Buck 110 or 112 one handed.

3. What I care less about (but still nice to have)
-I prefer locks that keep your fingers out of the way when closing, but it's not a deal breaker. I tend to prefer weight under 6oz., but that's not a deal breaker either (two of my favorite EDC's are the Buck 112 which is over 6oz, and the BM 520 at 5.6 oz). I like traction, but smooth knives are not a dealbreaker (although if it feels slipper in hand it's a deal breaker - e.g. BM Mini Onslaught which I love but would prefer more traction and the BM Amicus/Arcane which I put eletrical tape on for acceptable grip). I prefer thumbhole openning, but not high priority.
 
1. My use
Anything and everything.
9-5 at a desk, so other than the occasional package or tactical bagel duty, not much use. Evenings and weekends are filled with household chores, tinkering on cars and motorcycles, hiking, camping, and everything in between.

2. My high value points
In a folder, versatility is king. I could be stripping electrical wire one minute, cutting radiator hose the next, and then sharpening a pencil, opening a box, or even giving my daughter's Barbie doll a haircut. A pocket clip is a must, so I don't have to dig for my knife when laying under a car, inside a kitchen cabinet, or six foot up on a ladder. One handed opening/closing is also a must, for the same basic reasons.

Quality and 'value' is a high priority as well. I don't need/want a $500 tool, but I'm willing to spend a little to get good quality. I don't buy Snap-on wrenches, but nor do I buy Harbor Freight ones. Knives are the same way for me.... a CRK would be nice, but $80-$150 Kershaws, Spydercos, etc, perform the same tasks, in a usable, quality knife. I'm a user, not a collector (nor do I have the funds to buy high-end stuff)

Feel 'in the hand' is my other major value. If it's not comfortable to use, it's not gonna see much pocket time. Handle shape, balance, blade shape all affect how the knife feels when using it, and will make or break an EDC for me.

Fixed blades just need to work, and be stout enough to do what a folder doesn't. For me, they're mainly there to supplement a folder when camping, hiking, or working in the yard.

3. What I care less about
Size and weight. I live in jeans for the most part, even in the office, so a bigger EDC doesn't bother me one bit. If I'm wearing suit pants or running shorts, I'll grab something lighter if need be, but other than that, an extra ounce or two is just fine. It's still lighter than my EDC firearm... Though I do prefer a 3-4" blade length.

Modern, tactical, tanto-style blades. I just have no use for them. For me, the shape just doesn't work well. I'd rather the long, smooth, slicing draw or a drop-point with a hint of belly. I don't need to pierce car doors, and a modern tanto just doesn't slice well for me. Now, give me a traditional style tanto, that has some sweep between the point and the belly, and I might change my mind.

Gimmicky features. I like modern designs. I like different locking mechanisms. I like some style and flair even. But useless gimmicks, just to be different, do nothing for me. A knife is a tool, first and foremost. A design future doesn't need to add function, but it better not make it less functional or harder to use. I'm a designer by trade, so I can appreciate tastefully done wall hangers and display items, but if it's gonna be in my pocket, or on my hip, form needs to follow function.

Huge fixed blades. 7" and up fixxies are cool and all, but I just have no need for one. If I need anything bigger than 5-6", Ill find a saw, axe or other appropriate tool. I'm not out bus crafting when in the woods, and the truck and camper have the proper tools to take care of bigger jobs.

Self defense. If that's your thing, hey, whatever, but I have better tools at my disposal if I need to protect me and mine.






For what it's worth, my two current most EDC'ed folders are a Manix 2 in G10, and a bright orange Leek. The most worn fixie is a custom with a stout 4 1/2" blade.
 
Acording to your statement, seems like the Spyderco UK Pen Knife could be a good candidate. Seems like it would be legal as per you requirements. One hand opening, clip and non-locking. [...]

It is. I have all kinds of Spyderco slip joints. They are great. However, personally I prefer a two hand opening locking knife over a one hand opening slip joint on most of the days. Personal preference. ;)
 
Since getting sick having seizures my knife needs have chamged.
I began to carry modern folders due to ease of opening and lock. I don't use my knives as hard as I did when I was working but I want a knife that when I need to cut something no matter what it is I cab do it.

Super steels aren't a requirement at all. I can sharpen my knives to shaving sharp and don't mind to do so. I have a grip in 154cm
And a blur with s30v . My other folding k ices have aus8 8cr13mov 420hc and the like. I love the blur and grip both are in my pockets now but I'd be fine with other steel in them.
I cut boxes and packaging food prep. I also use my knife for cutting small limbs from trees when I am feeling om.
The lock is what matters most to me now
I am growing to love the axis lock benchmade uses. I like framelock . A linerlock is fine when they lock well.
I like a blade that slices good
Then the looks are last. For me function is more important than looks. But I'd be lying if I said I didn't care at all
I love the look of alot of zts like the 0566.
Many others I like. The kershaw emerson collabs I think look really good.
But if a knife has a good lock and slices well I'll use it.
I use to collect alot of stockman and trapper knives. Now I simply buy users. Now by and large if I own it it's been or is in my pocket
 
**IGNORE... IGNORE... wrong thread. Sorry. Brain is still out to supper... fingers have been left on their own too long. [Yeah... age, arthritis, and retirement have changed my knife preferences, too. If you like the AXIS lock and you like slicers, I'd also suggest looking at Benchmade's mini-Presidio 2. It's a little larger than the mini-P 1 was but just as tough and maybe a bit more of a crossover design in between tough and capable on one end and gentlemanly on the other. I was very pleasantly surprised by the one I held and played with (and finally bought) in a local B&M.]
 
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