Your Favorite Maul for Splitting Wood?

[Steve Tall]

I got one of these mauls for a friend of mine; I should ask him how it's working.

I don't know how it's performance would compare, but it's a lower-cost European option (retail price $43), made in Germany (supposedly) by SHW, and currently available from at least one company (an importer of European tools and walk-behind tractors, in Kentucky).

53957 – SHW Splitting Maul

 

[trailmaker]

Yes, Fiskars lots of guys like those also. I have to ask around and see if anyone I know has one I can test. They are sold just about everywhere, might even be able to pick one up second hand.
Here is how the Fiskar ramps compare.

We're getting a little off topic with splitting axes but my favorite splitting device by far is the original "Super Splitter". I think it's the middle axe in your picture. I bought two spares when I realized they were discontinuing the model.

 

[Alocksly]

I reported on here that I got a Condor German splitting axe. Once observing how well it worked and noticing that it rarely stuck and seemed to have a good balance between penetration splitting ... I went back to my 6lb splitting maul and thinned the bit and the start of the ramp till it stopped bouncing and gave good penetration with just a little sticking occasionally. That maul then performed to a whole new level by significantly thinning the bit and then transitioning it smoothly into the ramp. Part of the reason for this thread was to let folks like you know that you can take your box-store mauls and rework them for better geometry and more proficient splitting. While they may not have the bit hardness of a Gransfors most will hold a convex edge sufficiently well to significantly improve their splitting capability. Honing the edge to remove all the grainy structure of the steel also significantly reduced edge deformation when hitting knots.

Well, several hours on the grinder later.....

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I only had a few rounds to try it out on. It does seem to "bite" better and I had no problem with it sticking which was my only worry. I'll have to wait till I put i through a few cords before I make a final appraisal though.

 

[Cleveland33]

hey guys, new to the axe game.

Spent some time splitting last weekend with a friend; he had a no name maul that I liked very much (except for the fiberglass handle). It was pretty heavy at about 8lbs with a poll you could strike against.

I would like to pick up a maul for myself, but after some quick searching on the topic here - what is the difference between a maul and a splitting axe? Is it simply the weight or does the profile come into play as well?

 

[thunderstick]

A splitting axe typically has widened cheeks to facilitate faster splitting and less sticking. The maul is essentially a sledge hammer on one end with wedge on the other.

 

[Cleveland33]

A splitting axe typically has widened cheeks to facilitate faster splitting and less sticking. The maul is essentially a sledge hammer on one end with wedge on the other.

one last one - when you say widened cheeks, you mean compared to say a felling axe, right? A maul is even wider correct?

 

[300Six]

Well, several hours on the grinder later.....

I only had a few rounds to try it out on. It does seem to "bite" better and I had no problem with it sticking which was my only worry. I'll have to wait till I put i through a few cords before I make a final appraisal though.

Ain't that the truth! Last year my novice hobby farmer nephew told me the advice I gave him about using a splitting wedge was no good. I went out in his yard with his sledge and wedge and discovered much the same thing. The made in China steel wedge was so bluntly angled overall, and especially at the tip, that it wouldn't 'start or stay' worth a hoot and always tended to 'bounce out'. Took me quite awhile with an angle grinder but I did just as you did with the maul and ground a better profile on that wedge. Once it started to 'stick' with a firm tap the wedge worked an awful lot better!

 

[Double Ott]

Yes, Fiskars lots of guys like those also. I have to ask around and see if anyone I know has one I can test. They are sold just about everywhere, might even be able to pick one up second hand.
Here is how the Fiskar ramps compare.

Visitor, Are your Fiskar splitters the ones with the orange handles? I can't see all of them in your picture. I read on another forum that the new ones (all black handles) had some stippling on them and that it wasn't really very nice. He said it would leave hot spots. He suggested that one get out and buy the orange handled ones while you can still get them as they have a smooth handle. He and others spoke very highly of the Fiskar spitting mauls.

Thanks Tom

 

[thunderstick]

one last one - when you say widened cheeks, you mean compared to say a felling axe, right? A maul is even wider correct?

Yes the axe that is manufactured specifically for splitting has a wider profile than a felling or general purpose axe--just google splitting axe. A maul is often wider, though not always, and heavier--again google maul and you will see the traditional maul from 6# - 8# on up with a sledge hammer poll on one end and a splitting wedge on the other. The monster mauls are just a heavy wide wedge. Google is you friend to look at pics to get an idea of what I'm saying.

 

[jpeeler]

Cleveland,

Splitting axes differ from felling axes in their intended use. Splitters working on end grain, fellers cut across the grain. A splitting axe can be simply an axe with very think cheeks that act like a wedge, or it can be specially formed for the task. The gransfors line of splitting axes is a good example of the latter. Most folks who split with an axe just use a thick-cheeked, 3.5-5 lb axe.

 

[thunderstick]

I only had a few rounds to try it out on. It does seem to "bite" better and I had no problem with it sticking which was my only worry. I'll have to wait till I put i through a few cords before I make a final appraisal though.

I heard from little on up that a maul and wedges are to be dull so they do not stick. I split a lot of wood over the years with bouncing mauls and wedges. From about 12 years old on up I had to split the big tough rounds--so many every night after school. I broke my toe from a wedge bouncing out and landing on it. I could not move away fast enough because the sledge had me off balance from the swing. The real key is sharp with right profile so the maul won't bounce or stick too hard. There is no down side to that approach. I wasted a lot effort over the years--except for the physical fitness aspect.

 

[mrynecy]

I love the nostalgia of restoring an old maul and I have several but nothing really out performs an old monster maul.

 

[300Six]

I only had a few rounds to try it out on. It does seem to "bite" better and I had no problem with it sticking which was my only worry. I'll have to wait till I put i through a few cords before I make a final appraisal though.
I heard from little on up that a maul and wedges are to be dull so they do not stick. I split a lot of wood over the years with bouncing mauls and wedges. From about 12 years old on up I had to split the big tough rounds--so many every night after school. I broke my toe from a wedge bouncing out and landing on it. I could not move away fast enough because the sledge had me off balance from the swing. The real key is sharp with right profile so the maul won't bounce or stick too hard. There is no down side to that approach. I wasted a lot effort over the years--except for the physical fitness aspect.

Current Tool and Worker Safety Councils are highly unlikely to approve the use of axes/mauls etc. were they to have been a recent invention. That or we'd all be wearing steel boots and suits of armour from the waist down. And helmets, face visors and the whole 9 yards for kevlar and chain mail.

 

[A Visitor]

Double Ott- the splitters pictured aren't mine. Just a picture I found on the net that displayed the difference in the Fiskar's bevels.

 

[Double Ott]

Double Ott- the splitters pictured aren't mine. Just a picture I found on the net that displayed the difference in the Fiskar's bevels.

Thanks for your reply. I'm going to try and find one of the orange handled ones at our local Wally mart. They are available on the net.

Tom

 

[Square_peg]

Ain't that the truth! Last year my novice hobby farmer nephew told me the advice I gave him about using a splitting wedge was no good. I went out in his yard with his sledge and wedge and discovered much the same thing. The made in China steel wedge was so bluntly angled overall, and especially at the tip, that it wouldn't 'start or stay' worth a hoot and always tended to 'bounce out'. Took me quite awhile with an angle grinder but I did just as you did with the maul and ground a better profile on that wedge. Once it started to 'stick' with a firm tap the wedge worked an awful lot better!

I've had similar experiences. I now put a slightly hollow grind on the very tip of my wedges to help them gain purchase when starting. See photo.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-sharpness-for-an-axe?p=10496889#post10496889

 

[555]

For fine tuning wood for the stove, from the wood pile, I've been using an Estwing Fireside Friend Splitting Tool (older one with a stacked leather handle) and a Fiskars X25.
I have about everything under the sun for splitting and never thought I would like something like a Fiskars. I liked the X25 so well I bought an X27.

I'm either lucky or have good swing and control of axes and splitting tools and rarely damage handles.

Has anyone had any trouble with the Fiskars handles cracking or breaking, either from impact or being to cold?

In these below zero temps, I store the Fiskars indoors and won't leave it outdoors during the day because of the cold and not sure of the durability of the handle if left out in the extreme cold.

 

[Alocksly]

For fine tuning wood for the stove, from the wood pile, I've been using an Estwing Fireside Friend Splitting Tool (older one with a stacked leather handle) and a Fiskars X25.
I have about everything under the sun for splitting and never thought I would like something like a Fiskars. I liked the X25 so well I bought an X27.

I'm either lucky or have good swing and control of axes and splitting tools and rarely damage handles.

Has anyone had any trouble with the Fiskars handles cracking or breaking, either from impact or being to cold?

In these below zero temps, I store the Fiskars indoors and won't leave it outdoors during the day because of the cold and not sure of the durability of the handle if left out in the extreme cold.

I did not know such a thing existed. I cut down a full size axe head and stuck it on a hatchet-sized handle I made and that serves as my kindling splitter and also to knock the corners off cordwood for the stove.

 

[Alocksly]

Current Tool and Worker Safety Councils are highly unlikely to approve the use of axes/mauls etc. were they to have been a recent invention. That or we'd all be wearing steel boots and suits of armour from the waist down. And helmets, face visors and the whole 9 yards for kevlar and chain mail.

I mentioned in another thread about when I hit my shin with a short maul that glanced off a knot. This is why I only use a long handled maul now. I've also seen too many wedges go flying and so I won't use those either. Safety glasses are a must, I've been tagged by knot shards a few times. I also have a pair of secondhand kevlar chaps for chainsawing that my dad got me. Given that I'm usually working alone I think I tend to err on the side of caution. I wish I could say that this is simply a result of my uncommon good sense but alas; I have a painful memory or a scar behind just about every precaution I take.

 

[kingston73]

Fiskars x27, light but I haven't found anything it won't split. The only thing with it is you need to keep the blade sharp for it to stay effective.

For the poster above, I've been using mine for 3 years now and no issues at all with the handle. I do keep it inside though so I can't answer your cold weather question.