Your preferred method of drying leather?

[SwissHeritageCo]

I use a lot of casing techniques along with water based dyes but dry times are really stunting my work flow.

In my experience, nothing beats direct sunlight on a dry day, but outside of that how are you drying your leather?

Just bought a really strong box fan today and it definitely helps curing times but nothing like direct sun

 

[EngrSorenson]

wrap it loosely in a couple absorbent paper towels and put the fan on it. Increase the surface area

 

[SwissHeritageCo]

wrap it loosely in a couple absorbent paper towels and put the fan on it. Increase the surface area

Wouldn't the paper towels buffer the wind?

 

[sheathmaker]

In have a dedcated small (8 0r 9 inch) fan mounted above one of my benches

It is directed at a small metal rack which allows the air to circulate above, below

and all around the items to speed the drying time up a little.

It works extremely well to keep the work flow going.

 

[7stitches]

It's hard to beat sun and a warm wind, but I have used a gas oven at low temperature with the door opened to about 3" You really have to be careful not to let it in too long. Taking it out while still damp is recommended.

 

[EngrSorenson]

Wouldn't the paper towels buffer the wind?

It helps to wick away the moisture and increase evaporation through increased surface area.

 

[Horsewright]

If you are drying it to do some tooling or shaping many pros keep a blowdryer handy. We have one hanging from the bench and will use it on low to get that just right moisture content. For drying sheaths after completion and wet molding I'm kind of a maverick but I bake em in the oven. For 3 hours and 30 minutes. I set an alarm for 1 hour and 10 minutes and flip the sheaths when it goes off and then reset the timer and flip again at 1 hour and 10 minutes. I start with the sheaths and or holsters on the bottom side and so after the second flip they are back on the bottom side. I set the oven at 178 degrees and allow it to get up to temp before putting the items in. All the items are on four sheets of card stock.

I've been doing this for decades and to thousands of sheaths and holsters. It works well. I theorize that it starts the leather drying from the inside out but no way to prove that. It produces a leather item that is firm and so long lasting in the sheath and holster world. After they come out of the oven I give them a very light coat of pure neatsfoot oil on the outside and then let them set on the counter for further drying overnight. Close er up and bake those suckers:

Make sure ya set that alarm or ya can make sheath jerky! Ask me how I know. I once did it to a batch of thirty sheaths. Now that'll get ya using all the top keys on the keyboard!

 

[SwissHeritageCo]

If you are drying it to do some tooling or shaping many pros keep a blowdryer handy. We have one hanging from the bench and will use it on low to get that just right moisture content. For drying sheaths after completion and wet molding I'm kind of a maverick but I bake em in the oven. For 3 hours and 30 minutes. I set an alarm for 1 hour and 10 minutes and flip the sheaths when it goes off and then reset the timer and flip again at 1 hour and 10 minutes. I start with the sheaths and or holsters on the bottom side and so after the second flip they are back on the bottom side. I set the oven at 178 degrees and allow it to get up to temp before putting the items in. All the items are on four sheets of card stock.

I've been doing this for decades and to thousands of sheaths and holsters. It works well. I theorize that it starts the leather drying from the inside out but no way to prove that. It produces a leather item that is firm and so long lasting in the sheath and holster world. After they come out of the oven I give them a very light coat of pure neatsfoot oil on the outside and then let them set on the counter for further drying overnight. Close er up and bake those suckers:

Make sure ya set that alarm or ya can make sheath jerky! Ask me how I know. I once did it to a batch of thirty sheaths. Now that'll get ya using all the top keys on the keyboard!

Yeah, the wet molding seemingly takes days to completely dry and I've noticed my stitching prongs leaving subtle bumps next to the holes from being pulled out, if the leather isn't completely bone dry.

The fan certainly helps but the oven suggestions might just be the ticket, maybe a little toaster oven drying 3-4 sheaths at a time.

My question would be - do you notice any shrinkage from the oven? I also heat treat my sheaths over an open flame when I wax them, so I know how it helps harden the leather.

My only other concern would be the neatsfoot, it kills the sheen from my hand burnish that I do after the dye.. seems to open the pores back up and turns it matte. I dont use any sealants or shellacks, just wax and polish.

Thanks for going into detail. Exactly the kind of tidbits I was looking for. A sub 4 hour dry time on wet molding would be a huge boost in turn around for me

 

[Lorien]

I keep all the silicate packs that come with stuff, and have them in an otter box. Seems to pull a fair amount of moisture out overnight

 

[Horsewright]

Yes occasionally a slight amount of shrinkage can occur. I’ve learned to use a pair of needle nose pliars to stretch strategic places if necessary. I work pretty hard at having them tight anyways. Occasionally might also use a rat tailed file on the cam of the welt too. Doesn’t take much to get em right.

Are you slicking your leather prior? Might help with the burnish. I feel its needed to oil to recondition the leather after wet molding and baking. I don’t dye leather anymore. I found over the years that dyeing gives the product about half the lifespan as an undyed product. I was turned onto tannery drum dyed leather by Paul Long. So if a customer must have black, dark brown, chestnut etc, that leather is available. When this leather is used the adverse effects of dyeing doesn’t present. Heck even the russet color that my work is famous for, is because I’m using Wicket and Craig russet leather. You can also get dye transfers even years later from self dyed products. This has happened to me and I had to thrw several items away.

 

[SwissHeritageCo]

Yes occasionally a slight amount of shrinkage can occur. I’ve learned to use a pair of needle nose pliars to stretch strategic places if necessary. I work pretty hard at having them tight anyways. Occasionally might also use a rat tailed file on the cam of the welt too. Doesn’t take much to get em right.

Are you slicking your leather prior? Might help with the burnish. I feel its needed to oil to recondition the leather after wet molding and baking. I don’t dye leather anymore. I found over the years that dyeing gives the product about half the lifespan as an undyed product. I was turned onto tannery drum dyed leather by Paul Long. So if a customer must have black, dark brown, chestnut etc, that leather is available. When this leather is used the adverse effects of dyeing doesn’t present. Heck even the russet color that my work is famous for, is because I’m using Wicket and Craig russet leather. You can also get dye transfers even years later from self dyed products. This has happened to me and I had to thrw several items away.

A tiny bit of shrinkage is sometimes a good thing so that wont deter me from testing this out.

I am indeed slicking the leather just after dyeing (water based dye), rather than before molding... just wondering if I could get away with forgoing the neatsfoot in leiu of something like snoseal. Dont get me wrong, neatsfoot is one of the few things I use just not at that step. Typically I will apply snoseal at the time heat is introduced.

Personally, I've never noticed water based dyes to degrade leather over time, and maybe because I've always sealed with wax I've never noticed any real "transfer" issues.. unless I'm using something like golden mink oil to seal. But it's an interesting thought, I have avoided drum dyed leather like the plague because it typically doesn't give that depth of color I enjoy. I also really like the mottled look of hand dyed leather.. saying that, you're work is beautiful and doesnt look dull like most drum dyed products I see.. definitely something to consider!

Regardless, thanks a ton for sharing such amazing info. Going to try your formula to the letter next round of wet forming. If I can get away with itz I will definitely be buying a dedicated little toaster oven. Will post results when I'm done.

You are the man! Thank you

 

[Horsewright]

A tiny bit of shrinkage is sometimes a good thing so that wont deter me from testing this out.

I am indeed slicking the leather just after dyeing (water based dye), rather than before molding... just wondering if I could get away with forgoing the neatsfoot in leiu of something like snoseal. Dont get me wrong, neatsfoot is one of the few things I use just not at that step. Typically I will apply snoseal at the time heat is introduced.

Personally, I've never noticed water based dyes to degrade leather over time, and maybe because I've always sealed with wax I've never noticed any real "transfer" issues.. unless I'm using something like golden mink oil to seal. But it's an interesting thought, I have avoided drum dyed leather like the plague because it typically doesn't give that depth of color I enjoy. I also really like the mottled look of hand dyed leather.. saying that, you're work is beautiful and doesnt look dull like most drum dyed products I see.. definitely something to consider!

Regardless, thanks a ton for sharing such amazing info. Going to try your formula to the letter next round of wet forming. If I can get away with itz I will definitely be buying a dedicated little toaster oven. Will post results when I'm done.

You are the man! Thank you

You're welcome and thank you for the kind words.

 

[Gato do mato]

I'm an amateur in making leather sheaths, but when dyeing them, I use dye diluted in 96% alcohol, it helps to evaporate quickly and dries in a few minutes. Just be careful to hydrate the leather well when finishing the hem.

 

[Twister Tim]

We have floor air vents. So I'll set leather on them. Sometimes with a box over the top. In the winter I can bake without the oven and don't have to worry about it

 

[Old Biker]

I'm wondering if a food dehydrater would work good. They have a heat source that is a lower temp, than on oven will go. Is adjustable on most models. And a fan for moving air.


O.B.

 

[RayseM]

From a P Lackey sheath tutorial thread ~


Then it's into my drying box (a trash can with a light bulb) to dry overnight.

 

[SwissHeritageCo]

This was a great thread, all of these techniques are useful. As of now I'm toggling between a dedicated fan (which is surprisingly effective) and sunlight when its available... but I will be baking my next fully saturated sheath in a dedicated toaster oven because a 3ish hour drying time would be huge.

Not sure if it will work but will definitely update.

Thanks for all of the excellent advice!